Dose Pipe Sutututu

I would install the stock crank damper, that anodised homo blue shit is itching to smash an oil pump

or just buy a JJR metal one and attack it with a dremel I did that, hacked it to fit my aftermarket turbo/piping etc.

turn off your O2 feedback, better yet just disconnect it. Tuners always turn it off when they are tuning to disable the trims. as for your acceleration enrichment, just set it low and work your way up till the car stop buckling.. sometimes it worth adding in more decay.

Keep it disabled then Even if you choose the right afm you'll be surprised it might not run properly. If the afm was again rescale your fuelling will be off

Don't plug your stock afm on, car will run like a bucket of ass as the scaling is different

Get an ecu that allows you to retard timing and add fuel at whatever rpm / speed / load / input for your bang bang - eg haltech adaptronic etc. Bee*R controllers are shit

Just go for Project Mu HC+ or HC800 as they're called now. Just went to bed in the pads, gosh they're bitey

I use them around Wakefield holds up pretty well till about lap 5/6 when they fade. A1RM would fade 3rd lap lol I've just literally installed Project MU HC+ today and giving the shit box a shakedown on the 23rd August with a few mates.

if it pings in any gear then there's an issue.. even lugging the shit out of 5th gear shouldn't ping... you really need to borrow/invest in a FC Datalogit kit and do proper logs, that will helps all of us understand the issue

Yeah those are the newer ones - the older ones (before they had a printed serial on them) were a atrocity - I had 3x let go on me and because they were out of warranty I wasn't covered but Paul from PW ended up selling me replacement ones for $60 delivered. However even with the new ones.. I had spark blowout at 1.3 bar at 0.8mm gap.. if I ran a smaller gap it would work but who wants that? Now I run Splitfires at 1.5bar and 0.8mm gap - happy days.

people with surge tanks etc.. and those who like to install it for looks and shit in their boot of their Honda Civics

YellowJackets - as good as they sound, as good as their marketing say they are.. they're only good for a stock application. Once you start ramming in boost they misfire all over the shop.. then you increase dwell (as you do) and they die on you. In my experience, Splitfires have always been superior even with silly dwell settings.

In theory an AFM/MAF will always be better than a MAP sensor because it measures air density and factors for different temperature & altitude where as a MAP just measures purely pressure. Yes a MAP sensor can work well, when ran in conjunction with a barometer & an intake air temp sensor. In practise - there's no real difference, to the driver it feels the same if not better because there's no issue with reversion and all that kind of shit. This is another reason you see premium cars with AFMs yet MAP for their cheaper variants... good example is an EVO vs. a Lancer/Mirage.. EVO runs an AFM/MAF where as Lancer/Mirage pov spec runs a MAP sensor. I personally run a MAP sensor because I don't run a BOV and like the flutters (it gets the slarts giggly)

PowwrFC doesn't have any form of R&R it's just the state of the cruise part of the map drinking fuel

How was it scaled? using the default Z32 AFM scaling or custom?

logically, if you're halting exhaust flow from a motor.. it would stall right?

Maybe not on a large turbo I'm confident a stock turbo if you were to grab the shaft whilst the engine is running it would stall as there's not enough exhaust gases being relieved as the rear wheel is so small

a turbo will NEVER stop spinning.. it's not possible, the motor would stall

your motor is just scared of being replaced so it's behaving LOL it's sad we will never truly know the real KMs on these import unless it's come straight from Japan with authentic japanese deregistration & auction papers

Mines probably got 300000 km on it too - judging from the body and car bushing etc. Clock says 140000 lol Has had a good hair cut from dealers and previous 50+ owners. I'm too scared to do a compression test on mine in fear of getting sad. It cops a beating on the track and regularly sees 1.5bar through the motor. It's going to pop soon I reckon lol

Try and borrow a data logit kit from someone off the forum and do a log. That way you'll have in essence a data cube from which you can see what's happening. I sold my kit a while ago when I sold my old car however if you can borrow one I'm more than happy to help you diagnose your problems for a few beers lol

That's the current ignition value being read off the map and the adjustment is a master trim - however temporary. That means you can add or subtract a blanket timing value on top.

Probably be more coat effective to replace motor with a used lump with good compression since you're selling it anyway Say of you pull the head then find out your piston ring lands are smashed, there's more money gone. Sad reality isn't it? But these cars are old and they break

One to the ecu looks like there may be a little coolant enrichment but nothing to upset your tune that much

Looks fine to me however what are the temps read by the Powerfc once your car is at running temp?