Dose Pipe Sutututu

Why are you choosing to go with such low compression?

Nek minnit, R33 boat for sale.

I've always gone and slammed the brakes and pull up the handbrake a little to upset the ABS computer causing the ABS motor to turn on. Get it to run a couple of times and re-bleed. You should be good after that.

I want to see GT-R skids.

Looking real nice! I've moved away from Optima, they aren't of the same quality as they used to be! I now run a SuperCharge battery (made for Stop/start applications and is an AGM battery - similar to an Optima), not to mention it's an Aussie brand with 3 year warranty. https://www.supercharge.com.au/car-battery/supercharge-start-stop-car/?post_type=battery_type&p=173 All the in-laws' cars run their SuperCharge Gold range batteries, cheap and phenomenal warranty.

RS4/6 would be superb! European cars seem to be well priced in NZ, unlike here in Oz!

lol... it's a never ending money pit isn't it? LOL. Your car will be the best built R33 GTS-t I reckon, modernising a 90s JDM to match your previous F80 M3 that was stock lol.

Nice! might be an option if the current fan clutch dies I really hope someone slides into my DMs and wants to buy my car, I'll then stop donating money to the Nissan car gods.

FPG shroud looks pretty decent! How are the air flaps held in place?

It's most likely the data entry person was being a lazy mofo. My GTS-t is registered as a GT-R V-Spec, and the VIN clearly says ECR33 lol.

Nek minnit, 500kW 😎

Looked like welded alloy to me, but my Asian slitty eyes might be wong 😂

I'm using a V35 Skyline pedal, same as the 350Z one but without the alloy pad (I did have a 350Z one but sold it as I wanted a rubber pedal to match the brakes/clutch). Doesn't say what car/setup so hard to say. Generally Haltech support is good at getting back to you, probably still off this week. Hopefully next week you'll get a response

But isn't your surge tank welded alloy?

Congrats on the new toy and your welding is sensational for someone that hasn't had much experience. I've seen welds out of workshops that look terrible and nowhere near as good as your work.

All valid points! Must admit they are sexy as fk, whenever they release a twin scroll, single gate version for our shit box RBs I might be tempted to get one (they have it for JZs and Barra motors already). I believe @mr_rbman will be the 1st Skyline on this forum to be running an Artec manifold Might be worth exchanging some ideas.

Would something like a Sinco manifold work? I have been running a T3 T/S manifold from Sinco for 2x motors now - no complaints, even with a 50mm Turbosmart EWG it clears the ABS pump too! Has seen 4x track days, 1x skid pan, 3x dyno sessions with at least 30~40 hard dyno pulls (me tuning). No warping, no exhaust leaks, etc. All the twin scroll benefits, however via a single gate (each scroll is split all the way to the wastegate seat/valve). Reduces the complexities of trying to control 2x external gates. The one pictures below is a T4 (probably more suitable for the turbo you might be going for). The T3 version sits like a regular 6Boost single scroll T3 manifold. This is what I have: I have no boost control issues too using a 4 port solenoid, just the only thing I needed to do to stop boost creeping was to run the solenoid at 12hz instead of the 25hz Haltech recommends. I have full boost control from 0.5bar all the way to 2bar.

try borrow a pedal off another car Not setting up rolling anti-lag? I need to setup cruise control too but I've run out of inputs and can't feed the brake pedal in haha

Just checked again, and yes both APP1 and APP2 are pretty much in sync

It's getting a uranium nuclear reactor to power the car using twin Tesla motors.

Just also a friendly reminder what I refer to handling/performance might be different to you and others, very subjective in a sense 😊 I also still think my car feels like a pile shit.

I was pro thick Whiteline bars dis dat as well, on the reduce body roll brigade but have learnt through experience that thick anti roll bars aren't actually that great. You create too many scenarios where you lift the inner wheel around turns or when you're travelling on bumpy roads both wheels on the same axle are trying to move together. Not to mention it makes the car very twitchy. Now I'm running 10kg front springs, 7kg rear springs with the front anti roll bar set to the softest setting, and the rear set to 2nd softest setting (allows the car to clock a bit better) and I can guarantee you it is more comfy than my mates old R33 with run of the mill BC BR 8kg/6kg coil overs. Rides better than my old king spring/Bilstein setup with stupid stuff anti roll bars. Also best part, I'm no longer breaking off anti roll bar brackets at the front when I ride ripple strips.

This would be part of the problem here, and add in thick anti roll bars (sway bars as they're often referred to) and it's a big fun mess on shit Aussie roads.

On the throttle yes, not the pedal

I better look at mine running again, I just pulled up old logs and saw the same voltage for APP 1 and 2.