chiksluvit

How about turbo heat shield?

Engine rebuild time That said blown turbo oil seals that I've seen usually leaks from the exhaust side Not saying it doesn't happen from the intake side but i haven't seen one before from my limited experience

Possible scenarios: 1. Standard turbo busted Second turbo is bush bearing, busted due to reusing stock oil line Third turbo was busted also 2. Standard turbo busted Second turbo is bush bearing, changed line over but just being unreliable as all ebay turbos are Reused line from second turbo, killed third turbo caus r34 turbo is bb 3. Used the right lines, just unlucky Or maybe you have massive amounts of blowby? Cheapest and most reliable option will be to send your first turbo in to hypergear and get a highflow/ rebuild done

No don't leave that bolt out, have seen one with that bolt left out before and air got into water system slowly over the years and corroded everything Welsh plugs, leaking head gasket.. Etc

this really sucks hope your skyline is alright

Well you can buy my stock r33 turbo and send it off to highflow.. Link here http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447157-standard-r33-turbo-syd/

that usually means its time to get the caliper serviced, look for uneven pad wear to see if your calipers need to be serviced my backyard way of dealing with the stubborn ones is this clean it first, then put the old pads back on the caliper, put the caliper back on the hub, do the bolts up, then stick a pole in between the pads (the one for the jack) and leverage off that to force the pistons to open up.. the old pads will protect the pistons and seal from damage make sure you open the lid for the master cylinder to make things a bit easier obviously this won't work with single piston rear brakes with the calipers acting as hand brake as well, I've only ever done this with opposing piston calipers that's my 2c

Looks like a gtr pump on Gtst cradle

So we have pretty similar mod list except I've gone for the cheaper jjr intercooler Well my result was 276kw with cut airbox lid and Holley panel filter / essentially the same thing as k&n, so vs ur result of 285rwkw with no airbox lid is pretty close to the 15kw difference to what Stao says. The additional 5kw difference could just be dyno to dyno differences... Max results from Dyno to dyno probably don't mean much if they were this close, but the curve vs curve is what matters I guess I'm gonna need to play with the boost setting to get this 3-4k rpm boost right One thing I'd like to comment on this highflow turbo is that it doesn't have this second of lag when I put my throttle down on downshifts. So say sitting on 4k+ rpm no load, pedal down and it just pulls my old op6 highflow from Gcg used to have a second of nothing before it'll respond to my throttle input. Bit scary caus I'll always have to time my corner exit right and its either all or nothing. And it won't hold 17psi on high rpm even though I bought a heavy duty actuator

I always thought that was just duty cycle? it's what this says http://paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#50 so it raises the overall boost by upping the figures here?

Yeah that's what Toshi was saying too, problem is you can't set gain on power fc, you can only set the duty cycle and just let the Pfc learn

unfortunately no e85 around my area otherwise i'd use that. Toshi's been telling me how amazing those e85s are as well I did go for the highflow for installation and cost reasons, although I think the SS2 should have plenty more head room if the hardware supports it (fuel/ stroker/ cams etc), seeing Johnny's running 350rwkw with E85 on an unopened motor, I don't think the highflow can go that far The r33 highflow and ss1PU are good responsive options for 2.5L dailys i think. I'd love to have more midrange on my set up but I just can't seem to get anymore boost that said how much boost are you running on the SS2 just out of curiosity?

Here's my result today of another great product from Stao Hypergear OP6 highflow, tuned by Toshi RB25 stock internals, 97 R33 gtst, 20psi, 276rwkw on 98 Boost held up quite well, does not taper down like most other highflow turbos, although it does seem to gain another psi on the top end... not sure if it is ok or if i should do anything about it Hypergear OP6 highflow seems to like high boost, it really comes to life at around 19~21psi, so we left it at there since that's where it felt best Supporting mods below: z32 AFM Scotty's 3 inch metal intake return flow FMIC PFC with boost controller kit 850cc Bosch EV14 injectors bosch 044 mounted intank splitfire coilpacks turboback exhaust incl jjr/hks style split dump pipe, highflow cat, apexi n1 evo (comes with the bonus 2.5in restrictor in the rear muffler ) Big thanks to johnnilicte, Toshi, Scotty, Stao and everyone who helped along the way.

Hypergear OP6 highflow, tuned by Toshi RB25 stock internals, 97 R33 gtst, 20psi, 276rwkw Supporting mods below: z32 AFM Scotty's metal intake return flow FMIC PFC with boost controller kit Bosch EV14 injectors splitfire coilpacks turboback exhaust incl split dump pipe and highflow cat

He's asking for gtr which should be the bosch top feeds I guess? I don't know they might be cheap but if you add the time and cost to ship them over, you are probably better off getting them locally through Scotty. Something goes wrong then it's another 2-3 weeks wait and USPS is bloody expensive already If you get them locally you will at least have a peace of mind that you will get local support and if something is wrong or missing you will get your part quickly

I've always used them, in current and previous cars. No complaints so far

I never get any noticeable increase in noise with that removed Now I have metal 3" intake with the airbox I also felt that the induction noise and stock blow off valve noise have gone quieter compared to the stock rubber intake

One thing that has been lingering at the back of my mind since I've had my GCG 5 years ago (no longer have that turbo anymore) was- I have read in other threads back then discussing the Garrett 7 blade compressors, they were a very old design, and not really responsive compared to the more modern 6 blade etc. those topics were referring to other Garrett turbos like 3040 etc Since GCG highflows are 7 blade as well, and likely to be using Garrett parts, does the above re Garrett 7 blade apply?

they are two of the main companies well known in skyline community which provides high flow service there used to be a few more some years back, but they are either out of business or just stopped doing them there's also precision turbo in Wetherill park NSW that does high flow as well. Having used high flow turbos from all three companies I personally prefer hypergear if you're chasing power on a budget, precision is also good as well but they do cost a little more for their ball bearing high flow, which gives a good balance between power and response, good thing about hypergear is they are constantly R&D to improve their products like what GTSBoy said, their latest highflow design is a more competitive product than the GCG high flow I think

Edit: accidentally posted this, forgot to lock the phone screen

Or some loose nuts and bolts

Sway bar links or worn shock absorbers

I remember speaking to someone before about skyline ball joints being pressed to the LCA and therefore the arm is a good reference for position of outer ball joint relative to the inner pivot point I had a toyota ae111 at the time (few years back) where the ball joint assembly was bolted onto the LCA so we had to measure the distance to ground compared to the inner pivot point and adjust the coilover accordingly. Angle of LCA was ignored at the time. Then the guy working on the car brought up the above about skylines

Never measured the height but front was adjusted according to the lower control arm, the fronts are at the lowest height I can get with LCA still pointing down (one groove lower on bilsteins the LCA will angle up slightly, wasn't able to get the front LCA to be dead straight) and rear was adjusted so the drive shafts were dead straight. Cost me a few trips to the wheel aligner caus I wanted to get it on the machine so I can check it from the bottomTaking your old silver r33 as reference it should be one groove higher on the bilsteins at both front and rear I think I ended up with around -1° camber at the rear, -1°30" to -1°40" at the front. Front upper inner bushes were replaced which helped with camber big time compared to the flogged old bushes. camber wear is within acceptable range at the moment although my wheel aligner reckons I still have a bit too much -ve camber for a street car

I remember you've mentioned in your other post that your car was of reasonable height? Which side has excessive -ve camber? If it's front then check upper inner. Almost all r33s have worn bushes there from what I have seen Rears adjustable so if you have tried adjusting the rear then it's time to change bushes