PranK

Super cool if you like geeking out on oil. I especially love the testing done with cars that just ran for 500,000 miles.

Well, that was quick. Intima only available for the big boy M cars.

Yeah ok. I think given the experience I had with the non-track Ultimates I was kinda hoping the non-track Red Stuff would be as good. I'll definitely change the pads before my next day out. Thanks for the info. Ok cool, so a few months of daily'ing should clean the rotors off sufficiently for the next day out? I was stunned at the braking I had in the 330. It wasn't as fast as the 335 but I was able to really push it and brake late. Never had a problem. Not a light car but as I said, not a heap of power either. Yeah, this aligns with Joshua's comments above. I gotta sit on the brake when stopped. I guess I could hand brake it at lights etc. Ok, so I'll look at Intima's and Project Mu. The Red Stuff were pretty expensive from memory, bummer. I had considered track and street pad swapping but I'm not too keen on this if the rotor's start getting a little lip, or specific wearing. 🤷‍♂️ Love your work as always. Thanks for the help.

Thanks guys. I'm using EBC Red Stuff, never tried them before. They're not a "track pad" as such just a more extreme street pad. I had Bendix Ultimate's on the 330i and never had any fade or rough braking, despite the reputation. First few laps were always a little soft, so I wasn't hitting them hard immediately, but the problem did get worse with use, so I'm assuming (same as you guys) that it's heat triggered. The rotors are almost new DBA slotted (same as the 330). Would I see deposits on the rotors from the pads? I'll be irritated if it was the pads, I ummed and ahhed for ages before picking the Red Stuff and they weren't cheap. The car has brake ducts already as standard from next to the fog lights. It doesn't direct directly, close range at the rotor but more generally in its direction. I hate when stuff feels off at the track and you know you can realistically only test it again next time you go! At least this time I had no boost issues like last time, repaired turbo's seems to have sorted that.

You can keep everything else, I just want this.

Curious if any of you know why my brakes might have been pulsing after a few hot(ish) laps ?

Yep, kicking myself a little bit as I had oil there but didn't top it up. Would have been a good test/fix.

I like the prefixes idea over subforums too. I'm trying to find out when the next version of Invision is due to drop because apparently they've done a lot of work to tags and prefixes.

Ok, so, track day shakedown done. The drive down was noisy! I forgot how noisy the semi's are at freeway speeds! The car was super floaty at the start but an additional 6psi all 'round and stiffening up the dampers made a big difference. Both of which I'd forgotten to do for the first few sessions. Generally speaking, the car did well - I had none of the boost problems that plagued the last day, down to the repaired turbos that I put in earlier in the year. I had two issues with the car though, firstly after a few laps the higher speed braking became rough and shuddery. The brakes worked fine, I had no fade, but it was shudder a lot. Apparently several potential causes here, from not getting brakes up to temp properly and buildup on the rotors. Not sure either of these were the cause. The second issue I had was my after market oil pressure sensor warning me of lower pressure around long lefts. The warning is very quick, gone after a second and none of my logging showed pressure below 45 psi. The sensor I have will alert you before a danger zone and each time I got it I immediately eased off. I'll speak with MHD about when this alert occurs and what I should do when it happens. At least it works. I wish I'd put a baffle in now when the sump was down. That said, the oil level was a tough low, so I'll try again with maybe a slightly overfilled level next time. I was trying to step the back out a touch on one of the corners but I found it really inconsistent. I'm assuming this is because of the open diff. Sometimes it came out quickly and aggressively, other times more subtle. I was only doing this to get a grasp of where it would let go but it was hard to get a good feel of it. Pheasant Wood is good fun but its just so tight. My car feels quite big and heavy around there. As a side note, I took my 17 y/o daughter with me and as the track was fairly empty she had a few sessions. She's an absolute natural and it didn't take her long to appreciate the apex and where to put the car. She'll be faster than me in no time. She particularly liked the straight! 🤣

Damn, that's looking good.

Welcome! Just drag a pic from your computer into the editor when replying to upload. 👍

Damn, that is a bargain. Still beautiful.

Welcome Andy. Whats going on with it?

😬 Not sure it will ever get "serious" for me. I absolutely love track days, but I'm far from aggressive enough to be really pushing. These arms were overkill, but I really enjoy tinkering with the suspension (more so than the engine) and they were cheep cheep so in they go. Brother in law is different, he's fast and fearless. He'll get more out of these than me.

Commodore Tuck 👊 Tyre shop said it had around -3.5 at the rear! 🤣

So some more small changes on the weekend. Brother-in-law's 130i got new BC's, rear trailing arms and rear camber arms. He's my track partner in crime and his E87 shares the same suspension and subframe so we regularly just get 2 of everything. OEM trailing arms may as well be made of cardboard. Seller only had 1 pair, I'll get some for my car soon. Mine only got new camber arms. I seem to have given myself -400 degrees of negative camber during the install and I now have a healthy "Commodore tuck" in the rear. Thankfully I'm getting a fresh alignment today, hoping for -3 deg's on the front and -1.5 on the rear. Also changed my diff "Lifetime fluid" and for 150k's it didn't seem too bad, I reckon it's probably been done at some stage. It was still dark and stinky but nothing like some of the other BMW diff's we've done fluid changes on.

Welcome! Any pics?

🤞

Yep. Just a reminder that this is not my full time job.

Hi Sebastian and welcome!

Yeah, I think we're on a similar page here. This is precisely why we need the change. You'd have only a few areas with new posts in them so much easier to see activity and contribute. Not everybody uses the new content streams or even knows they exist.

Hi All, We're in dire need of a categories reshuffle so we can more easily find content and also make new content easier to find. The current structure is too busy and complex. Note that all moved topics will be tagged with the original forum category they came from so we will retain that info. Current Automotive structure - Newbie Introductions - General Automotive Discussion - - Other Nissan Imports - - Evo discussion - - Euro Discussion - VR Series - R35 GTR, Juke-R - - R35 GT-R For Sale - - R35 GT-R WTB - - RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002) - - VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti - Four Door Family - - Members and Their Rides - - Cefiros Parts Classifieds - Wagoneers - - Stagea Parts Classifieds - Classics (1953-1988) - Motorsport - - Drift & Drag - - Motorsport Builds - Importing Vehicles My suggested Automotive structure - Newbie Introductions - General Automotive Discussion - - Other Nissan Imports > Move to General - - Evo discussion > Move to General - - Euro Discussion > Move to General - VR Series - R35 GTR, Juke-R > Move to General - - R35 GT-R For Sale > Move to For Sale - - R35 GT-R WTB > Move to WTB - - RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002) > Move to General - - VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti > Move to General - Four Door Family > Move to General - - Members and Their Rides > Move to build threads - - Cefiros Parts Classifieds > Move to For Sale - Wagoneers > Move to General - - Stagea Parts Classifieds > Move to For Sale - Classics (1953-1988) > Move to General - Motorsport - - Drift & Drag > Move to Motorsport - - Motorsport Builds > Move to Build threads - Importing Vehicles Automotive after restructure - Newbie Introductions - General Automotive Discussion - Motorsport - Importing Vehicles Modifications & Maintenance currently; - Forced Induction Performance - - RB30 conversions - Naturally Aspirated Performance - Suspension, braking and tyres - Drivetrain and transmission - General Maintenance - Cosmetic, Styling & Respray - Car Detailing & Paint Care - Car Audio & Electrical - Tutorials / DIY / FAQ - Fabrication - Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups - - Motorsport Builds - - Four Door Builds Modifications & Maintenance suggested; - Forced Induction Performance > Add new 'Performance' under General Automotive - - RB30 conversions > Move to Performance - Naturally Aspirated Performance > Move to Performance - Suspension, braking and tyres > Move to General - Drivetrain and transmission > Move to General - General Maintenance > Move to General - Cosmetic, Styling & Respray > Move to General - Car Detailing & Paint Care > Move to General - Car Audio & Electrical > Move to General - Tutorials / DIY / FAQ > Retain but move to 'Automotive' - Fabrication > Move to General - Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups > Retain but move to 'Automotive' - - Motorsport Builds > Move to builds - - Four Door Builds > Move to builds Remove 'Modifications & Maintenance'. Automotive after restructure - Newbie Introductions - General Automotive Discussion - - Performance (Maybe this should be top level?) - Motorsport - Importing Vehicles - Tutorials - Projects, Overhauls and Builds This is obviously a significant change but I believe it is one that will foster more discussion. Please leave your opinions. I'd like to make the changes this coming weekend.

We have boots, trunks, frunks, froots. .... But what is that ?

Oh I just meant the cloudly lens covers but if I can improve them in other ways I'm super keen! I know they're hard to separate though. On a second note, I have a small and sharp clunk in the front drivers suspension. Everything in there is new (M3 control arms, new sway bar, sway bar end links & coilovers) except the tie rod ends. I'm wondering if a bad tie rod end ball joint will clunk?

Yep. It makes such a difference to have the right sized plate on the right sized mount.