Murray_Calavera

Sounds like a pretty well setup car. If you remember what it was like going from street tyres to A052, you've got about that much performance again to be gained from going from A052 to a race slick.

Sounds good. As everyone else is saying, if you haven't created a roll centre problem for yourself (by over lowering the car) then I think you are imagining a problem that isn't really there. Why do you think there is currently an issue with the cars roll centre? Back to some more practical advice, you say you want a 'precise' handling car, to achieve this you delete all the rubber bushes and hard mount/rose joint everything. Strong chance you'll then hate the car on the road so I don't recommend you do this. You'll also be creating a tonne of extra work for yourself as the rose joints are high maintenance. I'd say at this point your biggest win is going to be by putting some real tyres on the car. I'm guessing you do open track days and don't race in a class that restricts your tyre size or compound. So grab yourself a second set of wheels, the widest you can fit under your current guards and pop on a set of serious tyres such as - https://samotorsporttyres.com.au/product/hankook-ventus-z214/ or if you want to spend a bit more https://samotorsporttyres.com.au/product/hankook-ventus-f200/ And if your Mr money bags, there are plenty of other manufacturers eg Michelin, Pirelli or Yokohama, who make slicks that would love for you to make a donation to them. Your current setup on a real tyre will be much quicker round the track then whatever setup your imagining on a street tyre will ever be. Plus you get to keep your nice handling street car/street tyre combo for daily duties.

Yep, an innovate or AEM or whatever you choose to use for the wideband controller. Something like this will do the trick. https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/x-series-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge.html You then feed the 5V single from the controller to the ECU. You'll probably want to use the wideband gauge until you get a better solution like a standalone dash. Yeah the other temp and pressure sensors get fed into the ECU, provided you have enough inputs/outputs left to accept them. Answering you0r post below, yeah you could use the 1 ECU for multiple cars, you don't need to use a "mil spec" connector. Superseal connectors work well and the tooling need to crimp the connectors is cheap. If the whole pull the ECU out, plug the laptop in, upload the tune etc etc, each time you want to drive the other car doesn't bother you - yeah go for it.

What has been done to the suspension/aero so far and what is the intended use for the car?

Where do you live?

Oh my sweet summer child, never change.

Only ever seen BHP used in the UK.

I would say it's a serious reply. Assuming the car is built well, how long till you experience breakages is 100% down to how the car is driven. If you use it on the street and drive around like a cop is following you, the car will last a looooong time. If you are driving it in anger or using it on the track.... you might break something on your first event. Consider this, proper track cars at that power level (850HP), that are raced over the year, might do what 8 events in total? If nothing broke, they would still have the engine pulled down and inspected each year. So yeah, 850HP from a 2.5L engine, the engine is a consumable item. If you use it, you consume it. It's up to you how long it lasts. And also, if the car is driven hard, expect to be regularly replacing that gearbox and the driveshafts if they are stock.

When it comes to crash safety, I think the most important factor is having the bigger car in the collision. If a 100 series Landcruiser with a bull bar and a late model Mitsubishi Mirage were involved in a head on collision, I would much rather be behind the wheel of the Landcruiser, despite the Mirage being 20 years more modern with a higher safety rating. Having said that, my vote would be for a mid 2000's Camry/Falcon/Commodore/etc. It's the best combo of large vehicle/modern vehicle that I can come up with.

Can you think of a scenario where twins out perform a modern single?

Well if the motor is built then it's built. There are many good reasons for higher compression ratio though, more power at all rpm, increased turbo spool, better off boost performance, more low end torque.... I could keep thinking of ways to say "the engine will perform better, everywhere" but you get the idea.

I'll keep it simple, the answer is no.

This would be the cheapest way to paint it. Blend the colour over the damage and clear over the red highlighted area. What you would do is back-mask using that body line. Here is a good example video of the technique.

If your a bit worried about working on the BMW straight up, you could go to your local wreckers and pick up a cheap panel and use it to practice on first. Once you're happy with the results you can achieve on the practice panel, you could move over to working on your car.

Ohh it's the rear quarter I was thinking it was a front guard.... Can you upload another photo showing the entire panel? What we need are natural body lines/panel gaps where you can stop spraying the clear. Ideally a panel gap. This is because blending the clear coat is not an option. I'll post an example photo. Say the damage is the red X, then I would colour over the damage and re-clear the entire area in yellow using the body lines to hide the blend point. If I'm spraying 2K, I wear a respirator, paint suit and gloves. A disposable paint suit is only around $30 so I don't see any reason not to use one. I have a feeling your air compressor might not be up to the task, you really want something at least this size to feed a spray gun - https://sydneytools.com.au/product/chicago-hush150-silenced-150l-air-compressor

If you're going to do the repair, there isn't any reason why you can't get it looking pretty much factory. In no particular order - * Get a good colour match paint. I've had really good experiences with VG Auto Paints: Automotive Paint Supplies. * Use a proper 2K clear (it will have a button on the bottom of the can to release the hardener) and good quality primer. * Take the time required to prep/repair the damage. Ensure the filler is 1000% perfect and smooth before painting, eg if the 2 part filler is giving you tiny pin holes when it cures, use a single step filler to fill the pin holes. You can't rush or cheat out this step, it takes as long as it takes. * Don't try and blend the clear coat. You could blend the colour, but you might as well use the entire can and colour and clear the entire panel. The 2K clear will only last a few days once activated anyways so at least it will all get used. * Have a good respirator. 2K paint isn't friendly. * You'll probably have a pretty orange peel y result using rattle cans. Nothing 1000 / 2000 grit sand paper and cutting / buffing compound can't fix. It really isn't that much more effort to get the factory result, you're already in there doing the repair, might as well make it perfect.

I have a Christmas gift for you. R33_Wiring_Diagram.pdf

Very normal. Were you having any issues with how the car drives that made you think this was the cause of the issue?

If you try hard enough on the track over enough years, you can crack the subframe too lol

I just wanted to check that you know about submarining in the event of a collision while wearing a 4 point harness. I'm not saying don't do it, just that if you choose to do it, at least have it be an informed decision.

Is there something in particular you are wanting help with? The only question I can see in your post is, has anyone used a raceworks catch can, but catch cans all pretty much work the same way and as RB's gunna RB, chances are we all have some form of catch can lol.

You can 100% do this with the IC7. So things like water temp, you can setup an alarm / warning to trigger whenever you like. Then while racing, you can hit a button on the IC7 and clear the warning. As for your engine protection, you can set the values higher then your initial dash warnings.

What was the car doing previously that needed a replacement fuel pump?

Any chance you can borrow an ignitor from a running car?

My money is still on faulty coil packs. If I was in your shoes, I'd throw in a set of brand new coil packs. Either Splitfire or OEM.