Murray_Calavera

So reading this, I doubled checked the receipt for my diff..... @Kinkstaah sorry mate for all the confusion above. I have a Nismo GT Pro 2 way diff. I must have early onset dementia, I forgot it was the pro version =/ Sorry for the confusion everyone

@Kinkstaah I can 100 million % confirm that my nismo diff is the 1.5 way you are thinking of. I can still remember the exact moment when I forked out the $$ for a 2 way diff, looked inside and saw the uneven ramp angles and thought, f**k me, its a 1.5 way and not a 2 way. I was expecting that when I paid for a 2 way and all the nismo documentation, that silly certificate that nismo do, everything is stamped 2 way that I would in fact get what I thought was a 2 way diff, that is equal lock in either direction. Nope, full lock on accel and half lock on decell. I just accepted it and installed the diff, it was fine in the end. It turns out I really like the diff. I'm not going to strip the diff and take photos, but I can upload a photo of the silly certificate nismo do saying my diff is a 2 way if you like lol. I'm pretty sure I know the diff noise you are describing though. When I put a Cusco RS diff in my swift, it sounded like the diff was trying to smash itself out of the gearbox. It was an absolute nightmare. Fortunately the issue was solved by using Motul FF LSD gearbox oil, fkn expensive to change (I replaced it every 5,000k's) but worth the $ as it eliminated all the angry diff issues.

@Kinkstaah yeah that does sound truly miserable. Have you had the chance to drive/ride in other skylines with the same diff though? Mine doesn't drive anywhere near like what you are describing. The only non-factory sounds mine makes is at really low speed, like doing a 3 point turn or navigating a parking lot, you get the inside wheel lock up sometimes like its a welded diff (doesn't happen all the time though and my diff is setup to be quite aggressive in the way it locks up) and it sometimes makes little diff clunk noises (not all the time though) but the wheel chirp and diff clunk isn't what I'd call bad at all, I really like the added character when it happens lol.

I'm not native but my Japanese is better then nothing. I've translated the buttons I can see - 1. menu 2. bird's eye view 3. map / CD 4. return / go back 5. wide view / zoom out 6. close up view / zoom in 7. vehicle information 8. screen / image 9. TV If you get stuck navigating the menus once the car is on, feel free to upload photos and I can help you out with rough translation.

I'd be really keen to hear about what you specifically didn't like about it and how the diff was setup. Oh and what oils you used in it too and if that made any difference either.

The nismo diff is adjustable, you can make it very tame (ramp up slowly) if that's what your after. When driving sensibly on the street, I'd be amazed if you could pick the difference between a 1 way and 1.5 way diff. The ramp rate on the other hand will have a dramatic impact on how the diff behaves on the road. As for being concerned that the factory diff will 'clunk out later' due to its age, that's not something I would be worried about. If its running well now, I'd expect that it will continue to run well as long as you keep it maintained with fluid changes as required. The main benefits you'll get from upgrading the diff are the ability to put more power down reliably. More control of the car mid corner and at corner exit. More predictability with how the diff engages/locks up, etc.

You'll find plenty of street cars with the nismo 1.5/2 way diff. I'm running one and I really like it. If you are 100% set on getting a 1 way diff, I think Cusco still offer them.

Sounds good to me! When you say it sounds tinny, I'm guessing that's when your playing it back on your phone? Sounds great on the gear I'm using to listen to it.

I'm guessing you'll be buying pistons off the shelf (not having something custom made)? Whatever brand you end up going with, I'd pick up the highest comp piston they offer. As a guess you'll end up with something around 9.0:1, but in a perfect world you'd still want to run more on e85.

When you say piston size, are you talking 86mm, 86.5mm, 87mm? that sizing? If that's what your talking about, use the size to match the size of your bores. The factory size is 86mm. If you are rebuilding an old used block, it is likely that it will be slightly out of round and will need to be bored out. The removal of that material will mean you now need to use a piston that is one size up, so 86.5mm. When that same motor lets go and needs another rebuild some time down the track, when you bore it out again you'll be up to a size 87mm piston. Probably worth mentioning, you don't take your block to the machinist and ask for 86.5mm bores, then go to your parts store and order 86.5mm pistons. Take your pistons and block to the machinist, they will measure the pistons and bore out the block so that the pistons are happy with the piston to cylinder wall clearance. As for what compression ratio to shoot for, what fuel do you plan to run the car on? Aaaand probably wrong place to post this thread. It'll probably get moved.

Check all your suspension bushes, including subframe etc.

I'm keen to hear it

I would also like to know what happens when you hit 4500rpm. Can you load the haltech base map and give the car a rev in neutral and let us know what happens.

Are you trying to buy a single pin? Might be easier to just buy a replacement connector?

Manufacturers quote power at the engine, we quote power at the wheels, which will always be lower due to drivetrain losses.

Love to see some photos

I wouldn't be worried about the engine, I'd be concerned for your gearbox.

A few months ago now when I was in Sydney for WTA, I visited Skyline Spares, they had RB's in stock. I'd be amazed if they have no long motors now. Have you spoken to them to confirm they don't have stock?

Isn't it going to be cheaper to just grab a complete RB25 from somewhere like Skyline Spares that has a start up warranty? By the time you've nickel and dimed yourself into oblivion and spent all this time with machine shops and turbo shops, you could have just dropped in another stock long motor? Then with your car up and running again, you can take your time to strip and build your current motor into something special.

If your a young fella on your P's, I'd say the sensible option is to upgrade other areas of the car, tyres, suspension, brakes etc.... And if your interested, start doing track days and improving as a driver. Once off your P's, its engine swap time (or turbo time, gearbox upgrade time, etc). Probably not what you wanted to hear though, sorry. Umm but to answer your question, your only option that makes sense is to add spray. Not a very sensible option, one of those if you have to ask, its probably not for you.

lol they are sexy. My imaginary car would run a big boy electric fuel pump though. Maybe 2 of something like these in tank - https://fuelab.com/91901-1000hp-in-tank-power-module-fuel-pump/p327 But knowing my luck, I'd find out fuel lab can't make pumps and I'd be pulling them out again anyway lol.

Yep a thing for sure, in this case though I've been on e85 for many years. Maybe 6 or 7 years? Can't remember, but a long time now. But yeah, looks like I'm going to have to swap out the pump for the 3rd time now, so we'll get to see what the sock looks like anyways.

It's the same age, just over a year old. I'd be surprised if it was an issue.

I installed this pump just over a year ago - https://aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1057-525lph-e85-hi-flow-fuel-pump Do we think the pump is starting to fail, or should I be looking at anything else in the fuel system? When it was originally installed, everything was fine. I checked the 98 and e85 tunes, all good. For quite a while now, maybe 8+ months I've been on 98 only and the pump has been keeping up. But now that I've put e85 in it (the tank is currently about 50% ethanol) the pump suddenly can't keep up. No idea what's changed in the past year to upset the pump.

My sad's are now super sad's