Murray_Calavera

I suggest a manual conversion lol

I have a feeling that if the OP's mechanical skillset is at a point where he thinks its ok to install higher flowing injectors while running a stock ECU, while he stated that 'nothing went wrong', I have a feeling that something did in fact go wrong during the install however his mechanical knowledge didn't allow him to realise that something was not done correctly/was damaged/etc. If that is the case, it would probably make the most sense to take the car to a workshop for them to troubleshoot.

Depending on cost and if it looked 100% factory, I would be interested.

It does sound like you'll need to get a seat. With your fix back seat and 4 point harness (with anti-submarining) using the baby seat restraints there is another thing to consider too... In the event of a rollover, you will be held in a bolt-upright position. There is a strong possibility that the roof will cave in, put pressure on the top of your helmet and crush your spine. I really hate to be the safety police as this stuff is a matter for yourself. I just want you to have all of the information available for when you make your decision so you can decide what level of risk you are prepared to take. Safety is a long list of things you can do, full cage, 6 point harness, hans device, fire suppression system, battery isolation, sexy (pricy) helmets and race suits.... But at the end of the day we accept the level of risk we want to take. I would say fixed back seat, half cage and harness are the starting point and form a system as they all work together.

The hall effect sensor that you'd be using doesn't need more resolution then what is supplied by reading off the back of the studs. Heaps of people using this setup without issue.

I use a 4 point harness on the track, I think there are 2 main considerations when doing this. 1. You need to handle the submarining in a collision. 2. The angle of the shoulder straps going back to their mounting point. To deal with the submarining, I use one of these harnesses (and I hope it actually works, not that I want to test it) https://competitionmotorsport.com/schroth-profi-ii-asm-4-point-harness-anti-sub#:~:text=The Schroth Profi II ASM,used in Driver Education programs. I use one of these cages with the eye bolts, the harness is clip in. https://www.agi-precision.com.au/product/a-nissan-skyline-r33-2-door-half-cage-4-point-bolt-in/ I would not recommend using the baby seat attachment points as your proposing. They are designed to support the weight of a small child in a collision, they will not hold your weight in a collision. Have a look at this for guidelines on how strong the mounting point for the harness needs to be (reinforced place 75mm x 50mm x 3mm). https://motorsport.org.au/docs/default-source/manual/general-requirements/schedule-i.pdf?sfvrsn=b143a052_12 Ideally you'd use a cage, next best option would be a very well designed harness bar that ties in to proper anchor points (existing seatbelt mounting points etc). You will see some people mounting their harness back to the rear seat seat belt mounting points, while this will hold the weight, it is incredibly dangerous in a collision. In the event of a collision, the belt will put downwards pressure on your shoulders and crush your spine. Have a look at the attached picture for the recommended angles for the harness belts. I will say, using a harness with GTR seats is a huge improvement over the stock seatbelt. It's not the same as using a fixed back seat as the seat has some flex and you'll feel that once the harness is done up tight (I really can't wait to get a fixed back seat). Still though, once using a harness I'd never go back to using a stock seatbelt.

Why not do something like this? Should be easier then pulling teeth lol

Yeah if I was doing everything again from the beginning, it would be great for things like oil pressure/temp. But in this case the factory water temp sensor is working fine so there isn't really much driving me to use the combined temp/pressure sensor.

It might be time to cut your losses and go to another workshop. Keep in mind this place gave you the car back with boost creep issues and told you the stock ECU needs a re-tune (the stock ECU can't be tuned)... There are a lot of other issues here but I'm not going to keep beating this dead horse.

Yeah, it's up to date.

It's frustrating as its a $250 sensor from Haltech I've also used one of those sensors for fuel pressure, and they read low when running e85. I'm guessing there must be a rubber o-ring inside the sensor that is effected by the ethanol. I think Haltech should drop these range of sensors, especially as they sell stainless ones for the same price =/ Are these the Bosch sensors you were thinking of? https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bosch-fluid-pressure-sensor-10bar-145psi Any thoughts on sensors like this? (it would be easier to keep things 1/8 NPT) https://www.efisolutions.com.au/stainless-steel-pressure-sensor-150psi-1-8-npt-thr~127222

Hi all, Seeing as I don't use the stock dash, I popped a coolant pressure sensor in the stock dash temp sensor location. Set it up in the Haltech and the pressure reading looked good. Had a track event today, half way through the day and engine protection started kicking in - 0 coolant pressure. Before I start digging deeper, I just wanted to make sure I haven't picked a stupid coolant pressure sensor location. I thought I could essentially mount it anywhere, but maybe the sensor is up too high? I'm not sure why it read fine to start but now reads 0 psi. Probably worth mentioning, there were no issues with the coolant overheating and temps were consistent with what I would expect on track.

Here, let me google these for you - https://roadsafety.transport.nsw.gov.au/stayingsafe/drivers/youngdrivers/licence-conditions/index.html#:~:text=P1 drivers under 25 are,one passenger for 12 months. https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf

There are so many red flags that need to be addressed here. Firstly, was the turbo conversion completed by a proper workshop?

What ECU do you have and what is controlling the boost at the moment?

I'll ask the obvious question first, these guys who completed the conversion for you, why didn't they sort these issues?

Yes sorry, I was talking about the damper and not the booster. I've got a gtst and it doesn't have a booster so it didn't even come to mind when I was typing up my reply.

I'd be very grateful that your car gave you notice regarding this issue, rather then leaving you stranded and needing a tow home. I would replace the master cylinder, slave cylinder and use a braided line that deletes the damper. The stuff from GKtech work well. You can bench bleed the complete system out of the car, then install it all together and do the final bleed once installed. Bench bleeding will get you 95% there and will make your life much easier. I've deleted my clutch damper and noticed 0% change in the way the clutch performs or feels.

Nice, that sounds good. The more data the better!

Yep, I'd say your right based on the Haltech settings -

I was worried that was going to be the case. Probably not much else I can do to get better AC on the track

Hi all, I'm wanting to have my AC run during track events, however the stock Haltech settings don't really allow for that. (base map settings, AC turns off over 75% throttle and/or over 4500 RPM with a 4 second hysteresis) I have a suspicion that the Haltech settings are setup that way using the logic that, if the driver is over 75% throttle or over 4500 RPM, surely they want all of the power available so kill the AC to reduce the load on the engine. Before I just set it to run all the time regardless of throttle/RPM, does anyone know if the AC compressor can be over revved or if there is anything else I should be concerned about?

What material was the plug that you used?

Are you talking about installing some sheet metal to tidy everything up after you remove the seat?

Cheapest way? Spray. A wet kit with 200hp jets could be up and running for less then $2000. Then its about $16 per pound when its time to refill your bottle.