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MBS206

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Everything posted by MBS206

  1. Lol, such a cocky little f**ker thinking his 250kw GTR is all that... Also, you have two photos up showing the undercarriage in different spots both with surface rust. Can't understand how you call that whistle clean. Clean is rust free, not rusty. Bulk head fittings are for putting lines through bulk heads not cutting gaping holes.
  2. I dragged mine out of a paddock and into a workshop the other week... In need of the seal for a R33 petrol tank where the fuel pump lines go in and out of the tank, that horrible seal has dissolved.
  3. Also, clean the Sharpie off the paint, for a car that was meant to be "mint" that's a great way to make it look half arsed. In the pic it really does look like the work experience kid was cutting the rectangle with a grinder. IMO, to keep it mint, fill that cutout back in, and use proper bulk head fittings that you out through a circular hole, that seal against the hole and don't allow dirt/mud/other crap to ingress into the vehicle. Also why didn't they wire in the new cam sensor with a little less cable rather than just looping all that excess up on the hot side of the engine with what looks like a bread twist tie?
  4. The longer you leave surface rust the longer it gets the chance to become deep rust. Get it cleaned up, painted over, and seal the metal from the elements to prevent further rust. It also concerns me, you said this was all rebuilt in 2016, yet there is surface rust in a few pictures underneath it. My POS has less surface rust under it and it sat in a field, on a farm, for the past 2 years, and also went 1.8M under water in a flood during that time, not to mention just sitting around for years. I'm wondering what the rebuild hid or more so, it's life after the rebuild. Crazy salt roads?
  5. I'd defect it. For bad angles... Make it match the Bends in the guard FFS!
  6. Just quoting you so you get a notification for this post, but what issues were you having with warping with the 3d printing? Was it warping while printing or when you took it off? I've had issues with my printer warping, but it all came down to a bit of tuning on the printer and overall print setup. I would not consider 3d printed parts on a traditional 3d printer suitable for "high stress" though. It's amazing how the different plastics deform and fail!
  7. I think you missed some updates. This went from "turbo is sitting on a manifold needing custom parts" to "I thought I blew the head gasket" How?! Ha ha
  8. In the total of 13 years I've only put 5,000 km on mine. Just none in the last 9 years Ha ha
  9. I have a 10KG washer for 2 adults. Never wanting children. Have dog and 2 cats instead. Is freaking awesome when you see the blankets we throw in it also can save a month's worth of washing and do it in one hit
  10. Mine still has only 7X,000 on it. (I think it's 75) Hasn't had a single KM added to it in 9 years
  11. Thinking on it, also check all of your suspension parts, a mount may have let go partly. Seen it in other vehicles.
  12. I'd be definitely starting with the tail shaft and diff. Also go over every single nut and bolt on the car
  13. Mitch is it speed or rpm related? If speed, then have to look gearbox out to wheel. I'd be looking at either diff if welded, or tailshafts. To easiest spots to end up out of wack. Pull the rear cover and inspect if the welds are coming out.
  14. Only thing to make sure with mild steel is that it's coated internally and not bare. If left bare it can start to rust, rust = flakes in your engine.
  15. Dose all comes down to the intake pipe. Man I miss the way mine used to flutter. Actually got told one day I really should remove the atmospheric BOV before another copper defects me for it... Full boost shifts used to sound like those stupid obnoxious atmo BOVs. Low boost shifts, or just rolling on and off the throttle used to make some nice long slow flutters... Mmmmm flutter...
  16. Secrets for now...
  17. Nice thread, I'm curious on the sound deadener removal, what's the exact process you followed with the dry ice? Is it a matter of dump in and wait and after a minute or so hit with a hammer to break it?
  18. Nah... Posting from the grave.
  19. Time to shave the bumper... Then come up here and run Mt Cotton!
  20. OMG, I went for a walk through the bush the other day and actually found this car!
  21. I have a place I could put it, and plenty of great tracks to take it to, just not the cash for you
  22. What you will also see from those car sales ads, is that that is their asking price, it isn't what these cars are actually selling for. There's a reason they sit for so long on car sales.
  23. I think the wanted to buy section needs to go to the top of the list. It's going to put the thought in peoples minds that want to sell, to check in there for a potential buyer, and it's going to get people who want to post a WTB to go in there rather than the FS section. The traders area, that's one that is really hard. If you put them into the general for sale section, I would limit them to something like one post a week, BUT at the same time they also get their own sub forum, the limit of 1 per week is to stop it being spammed. Alternatively, for the traders section, could you make a "Traders Section" and then break the sub sections down not by Trader, but by type of parts. IE: Traders -Wheels and Tyres -Suspension -Engine -Body and Paint -Electrical -Driveline Etc etc. It would make it easier to find stuff for people, for example if I were to go looking to buy new stuff I'd be more inclined currently to search for my item in google, because I'm not sure which out of the traders is selling what. Just a random thought, as one of the ways I normally start to research items is by breaking down what TYPE of item I want. I do believe allowing them to post in the technical sections would be beneficial, but more so in giving an option (And providing a link) to their product, and pointing out why it's good. It's a very fine line to tread though when you are pointing out why your product is better. If it is purely technical fact "My product is 12mm thicker from such and such a material which is stronger than the material used to make BLERGH which is also only 10mm thick would be acceptable IMO. It is pointing out differences, but it would need to be factual, and then you have to start getting into grey areas which makes it harder for mods. Is there a way possibly that each time a trader makes a post in a certain forum the forum automatically alerts a mod, who can quickly review it. If it could you could quite quickly stipulate that it's up to the for sale mods to look after those posts - Maybe?
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