MBS206

Well, not much had happened with the R33 since it's last update, until this weekend. I made the time to stop, and do a heap of wiring work. Engine is pretty much wired up now. Things remaining in wiring: - run main wiring to the fuel pump, (coil side of relay done). - wire radiator fan in, once I buy a thermo fan. - extend wires for butterly to change short/long runners (engine will be happy without it done, but I'd lose low down). - run main power line for fusebox to battery. - put terminals on the earth lines. - earth the motor to chassis. From there, things remaining for wiring: - wire reverse lights in, finish wiring brake lights in (part done). - wire in headlights. In addition, I'm getting some black Lexan laser cut, where the fuse panel and relay block are cable tied, is roughly where they'll end up on the acrylic, in a nice easy to reach, and easy to see position. The OBD2 plug will be in the acrylic panel too. The loom will end up braid wrapped once I've proven it is all good. There's a couple of wires tied up in a bunch, being for O2 and speed input. Speed will be sorted later, O2 I might hook up, or run open loop for now.

Of course they can't do it safely. BMW drivers don't know how to operate indicators, so no one would know what's going on! 😮

They're like a dime a dozen at JustJap aren't they? 😛

What I find interesting, is that after all these years, Neil doesn't know by just picking up a part where exactly it goes ... I think it's time we send him for some Dementia testing... But a few questions... We were talking about light in your Garage thread... For more light in the engine bay, why don't you remove the bonnet? Even when working on the hoist, I've always found it easier to not need to bend myself (Or light) around the bonnet. Curious why you haven't removed it (From the pics on last page it was still on while on hoist) Your fuel filter in your pic on the last page looks mounted in place, had you moved it earlier, or is it an optical illusion and it's not mounted there, it's just on a piece of fuel hose and the fuel filter is holding the bracket in place? (If it is mounted down there, I'm curious why you're wanting to move it back, and why you had moved it in the first place) It dawned on me while looking at the recent car on hoist photos, you don't have the factory radiator support upright in place, instead it looks like a piece of RHS. Am I correct in assuming you ditched the factory one to save weight, and better air flow through the front? If you did, why did you not just ditch the RHS as well that's in there? Do you have something mounted to it? The only benefit I can see structurally is to stop the rad support for up/down movement, where as the factory one is a triangle shape which gives for some "side to side" strength too... But in all, that whole front apron is pretty darn strong for side to side and up and down typically. The only other thing that pops into my head, those nice discs that I believe you stole from Mel's art's and craft supply all those years ago that you've bolted and (I believe silasticed in place) to cover where things like AC goes through the firewall by factory. Did you think about getting the panel beater to fill those holes in with metal to smooth it, and then paint it white to look more flush (Yes, looks on a race car! ha ha ha!) or are you more staying on the lines of "I'm happy with how they look and function, plus it means someone someday can re-fit the factory gear if they chose to" ?

How long do you think you'll get from a single? 1.5months as it's doing two turbos work, or 12 months instead HAvent read entire thread, was it the actual turbo's you've had that keep failing?

Hey Brett, The port just under the turbo flange, is that for measuring back pressure?

Why is it sacrificing an OBD2 port? Just get an OBD2 Y Cable. It can leave a factory looking OBD2 port where it normally would be, and leave an OBD2 cable plugged in elsewhere. Secondly, you can splice into the CANBus cables if you want to. There are also some low cost options out there that can listen to CAN signals, and then trigger IO ports that you wire to. The Ford guys use these a lot. One of them can also do it the other way of you flick a switch, and it'll send specific CAN messages. Lets the Ford guys do things like get all the dashboard, and light integrations working properly.

Dollar limits for myself in projects basis is: spend lots of small amounts over time, never add them up. Therefore cost feels small. Stop when it's not fun.

651, good number

The new car mods will be primarily centred on how to stop the TCS and Stability system working. 😛

Don't get dogs, or cats, or children, or a GF then

Cheers Brett!

Which Astra pump do you use? Is there a certain year range, and do you end up buying from a wrecker and rebuilding, or is someone selling them new (with Holden now goneskies)

COVID happened. Some people died. Even more people went batshit insane paying silly money for all sorts of things!

Check the drain plugs aren't blocked on the lights mark. It might be trapping the air in there. Also, at 150,000km on the clock, time to put it on blocks. That's your half million dollar retirement package in a couple more years

Thinking through this, I think you might find light on the uprights annoying to work with as when you're under the car looking up, you're going to potentially have bright light shining into your peripheral making it harder to see up under the car in specific circumstances. It may be different for others, but I find I can typically see better in my garage if I close my roller door, as the light coming in the door is from a focused point, if that point is partly shining through somewhere I'm trying to look at, I can't see the darker area. IE, looking down through my engine bay, but light is shining from the floor up. I kind of liken what happens to me like when you're trying to take a photo of something dark, but there's a bright light source in the frame as well. For use when working under the car, it might be better to have lights along the floor, shining upwards from each side so the light is "behind you" at all times, rather than potentially level with. I've also found in the last year, the head mounted torches and be a real blessing when using a hoist.

Dog box like above won't be happening, it's entirely unsuitable for our situation. It's 3x German Shepherd Dogs. As I said, it'll be setup with failsafe redundancies for the whole thing. But the vehicle could sit in the sun for quite a few hours, and then dog will be able to get out, and being able to run them on point is a major benefit over a dog that is already hot, and then gets out into a 35 degree day. Will have ability for air flow (fanned, and vented for when moving), as well as fully insulated, major electronic backups on the system, and ability if need be for doors on it to auto open (without releasing pups) for air flow in event of internal temp increases. Big issue is one of our boys is getting older and HATES the heat, and one of the others won't show signs of wearing out until he needs to be at the vets as he's about to die (never give up attitude), except he can get a bit of brain fade and turn off his listening ears. So keeping him cool when it's a stupid hot day up here is pretty paramount for what he does. The sorting out an easy to install AC is the only difficult part for me at the moment. Though may if need be look to re-engineer an AC from an EV.

This won't be a cheap setup. Will be spending a lot to build it correctly, and with fail safes in it. Not putting my children at risk. Had just been searching online and not finding anything that looked proper useful. Looking for an electric compressor, and then the other bits and pieces that I can lay out where I need.

Got any good hints/tips for an AC system to run from a battery. To be installed into a custom back on a dual cab ute. Will be for travelling with multiple dogs in, and when out at trials and work times. So need to keep it cold to keep them comfortable. Will be ran on big lithium batteries.

My R33 had great AC. Was like a freezer box inside. Note... HAD

Normally don't want it on anyway. They don't like high RPM. One of the reasons that the stock ECUs will disable the compressor at full throttle or high RPM. Good for a little extra engine braking though

Perhaps if people wanting to save Wakie also were will to reduce their cars noise levels it would really help Wakie be able to meet the noise levels. Remember this, whilst Wakie may not have been keeping strict enough on the noise levels they were meant to enforce, and this really didn't help them, every single person who went "But it's a race track, I can be as loud as I want" and also didn't keep themselves in check with the regulations, they all contributed to this too. In another location, I publicly asked how many of those who want to save wakie as they use it would be willing to make their cars quiet if it meant saving Wakie... Oddly... No responses of anyone happy to do so... Basically, it's the exact same thing when someone says "EVs can't be good race cars, as they don't make noise!"

V8 in small bay can be a bit of a cluster like clearing steering rack, etc. But, I think you'd be happy to spend the money to build the crazy manifolds etc what insurance scheme is Skid Control run with? Are they carrying pub liability and that sort of thing that MA provides?

Shhh... He'll criticise you for that Honda you're letting sleep with Zoe and Cheryl next...

So still not enough for a house deposit in Sydney... Keep going Neil! Giving me motivation to do the little tidy up jobs that I scrubbed off my build list after getting annoyed with them. while the panel beater is around, have you thought about getting him to smooth over and remove any of the bolt holes and random holes that you don't need any more to tidy the bay up looks wise, and remove areas for dirt and crap to gather?