MBS206

Not 100% across this half shaft in particular as I haven't removed one, but it will be pretty much the same as others... The surface the seal rests on on the half shaft itself can also wear. If it starts to wear down, it's not going to mate and seal properly. When doing the seal, you need to be checking the inner and outer surfaces it mates to, are in good condition too. Is the oil weep 100% coming from the half shaft seal location? Have you checked the breathers/vents aren't blocked? Blocked vents will bust an axle seal/make them weep. This could be why it only showed after a drive, as it needed to heat up and pressurise first (diff unable to breath)

What did the mating surface on the half shaft look like?

The first question you need to answer is, what is the definition of reliable? The next is asking how you WILL really drive it...

Mark needs this...

Jim Richards gave a talk at one of SAUNSW dinners, and someone asked a question about times he's felt it was sketchy, or more so the sketchiest. He recalled a time he raced Targa Tas. I think he said he was doing about 250kmh, and it started raining. And he said he thought "This is a bit quick, I should slow down... But to what? 180? I'm still gone at that speed..."

Ahhhhhh! I get you now. His car I know of is a GTR, converted RWD yeah? Have seen some awesome shots of his lifting inside tyre under full noise through a corner. But that much power through a normal car body with just a roll cage... Shit still twists and moves a lot

I'm curious what this is in reference to exactly with Brad's GT-R

Able to show the log of IAT from start to finish of the whole session? How many laps and how many minutes? The IAT looks to be slightly higher at end of lap than the start, I'm wondering if IAT was still climbing in total lap after lap (only more laps during that session would tell).

Daily driving, street work, or even circuit work, those chillers aren't going to work. Most "chillers" people run, are for a short burst, IE, at the 1/4 mile. Some guys will even drop dry ice in to get things cold. But those temps only stay down for so long. It's all about heat transfer. If you're not continuing to cool the chiller, it's going to end up warm and heat soaking.

So, weekend didn't pan out how I intended. Saturday was an entire write off, I was quite sick. Sunday, still not feeling great, had to do a few adult things, but got a couple of hours in feeling still under the weather. End result: -loom built and ran to rear of car for all the rear lights, and fuel pump. - fuel pump all wired to top of the tank cap. - brake lights wired to brake switch. - reverse lights fully wired to the gearbox and working. - main power cable to fuse panel ran. Lights tested with a 5amp power supply, not enough current to run all four brake lights with, so didn't snap a photo of the brakes.

Interesting thought to have: People are saying water coolant temps are easy to keep down. However, some need a lot of work on oil cooling. Water temps are normally taken at the front of the motor or on the rad inlet/outlets. Water and oil flow very differently in the motor. What if, your oil is doing the majority of the cooling in the back of the engine? Wouldn't this mean better water flow, less struggle with oil temps... There is a reason those water heat exchangers work not only to help warm up the water quickly at startup, but also stabilise oil temperatures when oil starts to get warmer than water temp. Possibly people using those oil/water heat exchangers could help with their oil temps too if oil temps are getting higher than water temp... Just a few thoughts, as the issue people have is high oil temps in racing, which could be from poor thermal management, particularly from water flow...

The real question is, is the voltage still dropping...

As I understand, and Dose can confirm, the nozzle is just a spray nozzle, purely mechanical item. Kind of like the nozzles for a garden misting system. Then you turn the pump on to pump water in. Pretty darn hard for the pumps to then "jam on" with the way electronics are. More likely if it "jammed on" it'll be through the electronics driver failing internally with a short, and then typically they've shorted that way that they end up with power everywhere, and bam, fuse blows, and now pump is off within a split second anyway.

If you're using it as an additional thing to clean the intake, and still doing all the normal maintenance to the car, and the WMI isn't being used as something to allow you to push the engine harder, than the only way a clogged nozzle will kill your engine is if you neglect maintenance on it... Which really, that'd happen even if you didn't have a clogged nozzle.

Yep, there's some stuff that isn't hard. At the moment we're feeling a financial pinch, so even dropping $100 on a few little things is hard to justify. But my some of my new Deutsch DT series plugs arrived today (without ever spending a cent... ) so the plan is to attempt to finish the motor wiring (extend what I need to, get O2 hooked up) and get the wiring for the lights all done, as well as the fuel pump. I think I even have some spare 4awg and the correct crimps to make a few earth straps from. That gets all the wiring done, I can prove it all works, and the wrap the looms and pin them where I want them. From there, jobs I can move onto is looking at mounting both seats back in, and mounting the passenger harness. I'll also review thoroughly the factory fuel lines (they'd been under water without the ends covered, and DID gunk up, so I need to see if they're okay, or I have to run new hard line. I also need to spend some time this weekend replacing bushes in a friend's Patrol, and rewiring his lights in the bullbar. So really, Skyline wiring, and then working on the Patrol is probably this weekend's end of the line jobs. While I think of it, does anyone know how the power steering valve in the R33 racks work, is it an analogue voltage, or 12V PWM etc?

I bet we get a full review by mid next summer on how well they work, and if the shit job of getting on the roof is worth it! I'm quite intrigued on if they will do anything, I've never really looked into it. That said Neil, for you sun issue, I have seen some super promising stuff on a paint you can make up, and your surface temps end up BELOW ambient air temp! Some really funky physics going on in it! Lastly, while you're on your ladder, can swap the tubes in my lights in the garage, and plug the third bay in for me? I hate ladders just as much as you do! So far... I'm still working with less than ideal light

The text in that post just makes me think of survivor bias...

Yeah I'll very likely get the O2 in. It's only the stock Falcon ECU, so O2 is only narrowband. I just need to run the cables across and out into the engine bay. Likely to do it when my new plugs arrive (in the post). I'll run headlight looms at the same time. How far off driveable... Unfortunately, a fair bit. Ha ha Rough Todo to make it the most bare for "driving" as a loose term... Get a tail shaft made Fuel lines, and fuel pump into tank. bleed clutch Proper driveable: the above 3 items. brake master in, everything bled. new pads, likely new rotors needed too. modify alloy radiator, and then plumb it up. air intake seats in harness in new shocks speed sensor put headlights actually in. make new reo bar front bar back on. Make the part of the radiator support that's been cut out, a bolt in item, OR weld it back in. fully weld the exhaust up (it's only tacked in place to make sure I'm fully happy with it, plan to move engine a few mm up, so won't fully weld until after that.) then there's still going to be other things that will crop up I'm guessing. But just keep plodding through things.

Well, not much had happened with the R33 since it's last update, until this weekend. I made the time to stop, and do a heap of wiring work. Engine is pretty much wired up now. Things remaining in wiring: - run main wiring to the fuel pump, (coil side of relay done). - wire radiator fan in, once I buy a thermo fan. - extend wires for butterly to change short/long runners (engine will be happy without it done, but I'd lose low down). - run main power line for fusebox to battery. - put terminals on the earth lines. - earth the motor to chassis. From there, things remaining for wiring: - wire reverse lights in, finish wiring brake lights in (part done). - wire in headlights. In addition, I'm getting some black Lexan laser cut, where the fuse panel and relay block are cable tied, is roughly where they'll end up on the acrylic, in a nice easy to reach, and easy to see position. The OBD2 plug will be in the acrylic panel too. The loom will end up braid wrapped once I've proven it is all good. There's a couple of wires tied up in a bunch, being for O2 and speed input. Speed will be sorted later, O2 I might hook up, or run open loop for now.

Of course they can't do it safely. BMW drivers don't know how to operate indicators, so no one would know what's going on! 😮

They're like a dime a dozen at JustJap aren't they? 😛

What I find interesting, is that after all these years, Neil doesn't know by just picking up a part where exactly it goes ... I think it's time we send him for some Dementia testing... But a few questions... We were talking about light in your Garage thread... For more light in the engine bay, why don't you remove the bonnet? Even when working on the hoist, I've always found it easier to not need to bend myself (Or light) around the bonnet. Curious why you haven't removed it (From the pics on last page it was still on while on hoist) Your fuel filter in your pic on the last page looks mounted in place, had you moved it earlier, or is it an optical illusion and it's not mounted there, it's just on a piece of fuel hose and the fuel filter is holding the bracket in place? (If it is mounted down there, I'm curious why you're wanting to move it back, and why you had moved it in the first place) It dawned on me while looking at the recent car on hoist photos, you don't have the factory radiator support upright in place, instead it looks like a piece of RHS. Am I correct in assuming you ditched the factory one to save weight, and better air flow through the front? If you did, why did you not just ditch the RHS as well that's in there? Do you have something mounted to it? The only benefit I can see structurally is to stop the rad support for up/down movement, where as the factory one is a triangle shape which gives for some "side to side" strength too... But in all, that whole front apron is pretty darn strong for side to side and up and down typically. The only other thing that pops into my head, those nice discs that I believe you stole from Mel's art's and craft supply all those years ago that you've bolted and (I believe silasticed in place) to cover where things like AC goes through the firewall by factory. Did you think about getting the panel beater to fill those holes in with metal to smooth it, and then paint it white to look more flush (Yes, looks on a race car! ha ha ha!) or are you more staying on the lines of "I'm happy with how they look and function, plus it means someone someday can re-fit the factory gear if they chose to" ?

How long do you think you'll get from a single? 1.5months as it's doing two turbos work, or 12 months instead HAvent read entire thread, was it the actual turbo's you've had that keep failing?

Hey Brett, The port just under the turbo flange, is that for measuring back pressure?

Why is it sacrificing an OBD2 port? Just get an OBD2 Y Cable. It can leave a factory looking OBD2 port where it normally would be, and leave an OBD2 cable plugged in elsewhere. Secondly, you can splice into the CANBus cables if you want to. There are also some low cost options out there that can listen to CAN signals, and then trigger IO ports that you wire to. The Ford guys use these a lot. One of them can also do it the other way of you flick a switch, and it'll send specific CAN messages. Lets the Ford guys do things like get all the dashboard, and light integrations working properly.