MBS206

I see you're ordering at least a half cage now then Yes, if wanting HANS, bike helmet is not suitable.

Depending on the features you want/need on your helmet, you will likely get a better deal, on a more comfortable helmet at a bike shop. There are some new standards that came out last year in the USA for helmet protectiveness which will really help motorbike riders, and finding a helmet that meets those standards I'd recommend for track use, if you don't have a HANS device in the vehicle, and especially if people are not using a harness at all. The new standards are about twisting forces (moments) that get applied on impact. To date, tests have only been on impact to skill/brain from straight forces, not reducing turning moments on impact.

Have you thought about putting the washing machine inside so you're not also doing the washing in the snow? 😛

Your right foot is variable you know, it's not a switch

*Shakes magic 8 ball* "No, keep the red coil packs with the rebuilt motor..."

You've got little mechanical knowledge, but an issue that could potentially cost you an engine you won't seek out a professionals help to at least start to diagnose? Rattles like described can be a lot of things. It could be lifters, it could be oil pressure issues, it could be a bearing noise, it could be a baffle in your exhaust. Since you've also got issues on the coil packs, you may have other fatal issues that have now cropped up. With the coil packs failing, did you ever have anyone or yourself adjust the position of the Cam Angle Sensor? The car might be pinging off it's head down near idle (which could destroy your engine very quickly).

Step one would be to unplug the IACV and see how low the idle drops. If the bypass screw isn't closed enough, it won't matter how well the IACV is working. I do agree with pulling IACV and cleaning it though, would do it either way. Really should have been done before engine install into car.

Mate that is wicked! I at first expected you to be using it like a 44 gallon drum having welding a few rims together. Love that it's pretty much fully sealed up! Now I'm sad that I made the call of "I'll never use this old metal truck rim to build a firepit" and sent it to metal heaven instead That's close to what the Canadians use. They just have there's bigger! A YouTube channel I follow a lot are North America, right near Canadias border. I'd wondered for ages on there videos what this gigantic metal box was against one wall that they often used as "a bench". It's big enough you could lay two Marks on top of each other and fit them through the door of the box. That was their fire heater to warm a roughly 10x7m shed... They say on some days it struggles Has an air inlet from outside, and a small air inlet from inside, and chimney plumbs straight outside. have seen the builds the Yanks and Cold Aussies (Canadians) on their fires so that all gasses exit outside, and any opening inside can only be an air inlet so that they don't fill the place with co or co². some also run CO2 and CO monitors in their workshops as a just in case since they're also doing things like oxy cutting and welding indoors.

Time for a big pot belly stove, and pipe the chimney outside, the Canadians love that setup for heating workshops!

So you need a taller hoist, and a heated garage creeper to lay on you're telling us Duncan?

Motorbike handlebar warmers...

Most GPS modules are getting better than that, but still not great unless you're spending big big big dollars. Biggest problem, is it relies on measuring distance, with decente enough error to make it quite difficult to detect did I really move, or just GPS error? Which means you can have the GPS thinking you've moved when you haven't, and at the same time you've gone to launch and broken into mass wheel spin. This is where you need a heap of sensor fusion from everything else. GNSS and Vehicle Telematics is my niche professional area of work. You would likely have more reliable wheel spin detection on an AWD using steering angle, TPS, and comparing the individual wheel speeds, as well as rate of acceleration, and comparing that with acceptable rate of acceleration at given speeds for given gears, and more so anticipating if it is wheelspin or not, vs using a GNSS sensor compared with wheelspeeds.

I had a 2011 i30 manual diesel. Box in it was what you'd expect from a normal driving car. Oddly after having the work EV for the last 8 or so weeks, it's weird driving a manual on the street. And I'm not sure I could buy a traditional manual for street duties again. The Hyundai's and Kia, they're going to pretty much perform the same as each other longevity wise. Most of the electronics, drives etc are all shared. I have a lot of technical documentation from Hyundai, and it's all headered as "Hyundai Kia".

From someone in the GPS industry, you'd want it to be a good GPS module, with an actual accurate output (basically doing a lot of sensor fusion with gyros, compass, and accelerometers) or the TCS won't be that great.

No matter how many IO you have, you never have enough... Ha ha ha

Surprised you didn't go the whole hog on the high-end nexus that's ECU and PDM in one! 😛 jealous of that PDM, I'm a poor man playing in a well funded man's sport... I'm stuck with relays and fuses ha ha ha!

That looks clean as! Goodluck!

Was doing some extra reading from ID on this filter (looking for info that I didn't find), and they do state, that the gauge is only really useful for normal return setups, and not returnless. Only way the gauge is useful on returnless setup, is while you're at peak power.

Materials Eng really isn't my strong suit (control, and software is), but, if you knew of a suitable low melting point material (I'll check specs later, but believe it is sub 400c we'd need) that can be easily be bought as raw pellets, and someone feels like 3D scanning and drawing up a 3D model of said smaller part (console lid etc), I do have a plastic injection machine at my disposal, just need the 3D model of said part so I can get suitable mould tested... Could do a hard plastic for main part of lid, and then a softer material as a second injection onto it... Not sure if such a material exists that can be injection moulded that way, there has to be some way that the big manufacturers are automating those items for production...

You should see the compliant mechanisms / moving parts the mechanical engineers are printing these days! Not to mention, you could just print it as a real hinge with a pin in it... Also, Donut Media did an interesting video on repairing an S model Nissan dash, one of the ways they did it was using flocking. Could work for the centre console and be cheaper than a trimmer if cost is a factor...

Micron ratings are useless without the efficiency data like you've given. If you chose between 2 filters, one 20 micron, the other 30 micron, purely based on the size, you could be in for a shit show, as that 20micron may be at 1%, while the 30micron is 100% efficient. On your data, you may be 5 micron, but that's only 88.2% efficient. If wanting 100% efficiency (where I feel a filter should have it's micron rating taken at), your rating would be somewhere at 25 to 30 micron.

If you want to make it look as nice as you can, find a wrecked manual. That hole in the tunnel, is a panel, you should be able to remove the spot welds, remove the seam sealer, pop that panel out. Take the one from the manual, and swap it over. It will be a tedious process to get the manual one out cleanly, but its doable.

This thread feels like a very slow way to claim to be a millionaire these days What sort of R32 are you in the process of importing?

The Commodore crew don't share your opinion, they'll put 400k km examples on blocks

That's looking good Brett! You must be super close to finished (in terms of the list, not necessarily time ) Once it's all back on all fours, and running, is this going to end up like a once a month car that you take for a cruise, or you're planning to still drive it as hard as it's been built to be driven and truly enjoy it? I ask as I know some of us still love these cars for what they are/were. Whereas others are now trying to turn them into old collectible cars that should be in "private museums" and barely touched for fear of the loss of the vehicle.