MBS206

The DT-P connectors use the TE size 12 contacts, these can handle 25Amp max, though can only take a 12gauge cable at most. 25amp, on 12gauge, you will want your cable run to max out around a metre, maybe a touch more. That's also the cable being NOT in a bundle of other wires. Meaning, the cable can shed heat the easiest. Regarding heat management of the cable inside the fuel tank, it is less of a concern here, however, this smaller cable will still add to the total length of cable voltage drop.

On the topic of soldering; Soldering a joint is a lot like welding, and most people screw it up. Even auto elecs will stuff it up, and part of that is because they don't test your soldering ability like they do with welding. People get confused as well, between heat, and temperature. People hear heat is an issue, and will run an adjustable soldering iron at a lower temperature. However, this ends up causing more heat, as heat transferred in, is a function of the amount of time you're applying the temperature difference for, and heat loss is a function time too, but your target you need to get solder to melt, is temperature based too. As copper is a good thermal conductor, it starts conducting heat along the cable. For some reason people find it "easier" to solder at the slightly lower temperatures too, so for less experienced solderers, they do this. The above issue of too much heat, additionally cause other issues in solder, such as the solder reacting with other elements, and this causes its properties to change. Also, if you don't have clean copper, and don't use flux, you can have issues. If you don't clean up flux properly afterwards, you can have issues. Generally, people also use way too much solder, and make a really big joint, this can create issues. People don't strain relief when they run the cables away. Through vibrations this can cause solder cracking, especially if you haven't soldered properly as discussed above. Added to this, if the cable itself is able to move around, but the soldered joint isn't, this will cause the strands to keep snapping (in my experience, and knowledge, this is normally why the cables break, and people incorrectly blame it on "heat affected zone" more than necessary. Add to this, everyone wants ROHS products, meaning lead free products, so the world has move to a lead free solder. Lead free solder needs to be performed at higher temperatures (around 100c more). The bigger the cable you get to, the harder a good solder joint becomes. Lead based solder additionally is a much softer, more malleable solder than lead free, this means immediately in itself, it is less prone to cracking than lead free solder. Those cracks, they also become what is known as a hot joint, and that's because they increase resistance. Hit joints if bad enough and enough current is being drawn, can ignite car fires, they can also cause some really hard to track down voltage fluctuations to the end product, especially in devices with varying, and large enough currents (large enough becomes a function of the resistance at the joint). The resistance can also vary based on movement. Hence when chasing weird gremlins, a valid test is to shake different parts of wiring to try to "simulate" driving at extremes. Electrically speaking, a soldered joint is better than a crimped one. However the ability for a monkey, with the correct crimps and crimper to make a decent join is quite high, and consistency will be quite high. Compare that to even your average auto electrician managing to get high quality solder joints, with high consistency. Add on to that, it's much easier to visually see a specific crimp to be causing issues, versus a solder joint, it means diagnosing is much easier. Durability wise, a crimp done properly, will mostly stay how it is (again, take into account you still need to give proper cable support, stress relief etc.) however, you can end up with a "dry solder joint" that will cause you problems, and many people hit these issues with aging electronics. When using crimps, in most automotive plugs they automatically start to remove some of the flexing issues that can snap a cable, purely based on how the cable sits in, the fact some insulation should also be crimped to the crimp too etc. However, using the wrong size cable/crimp, or the wrong crimpers can cause a cable to not be held tightly, or held too tightly and even break strands when the crimp is being made. Whilst I can do a good solder joint myself, based on even my variation, and some of the cable sizes needed when doing my Skylines new loom, I have avoided solder nearly entirely and crimped all my cable joins, including when needing to T cables. Planning the looms as best you can to avoid joins as much as possible is the best bet. Add to that, high quality crimps, and high quality crimpers, and high quality cable (and yep, there's plenty of shit cable you can buy!) Hopefully that gives you some reasons why people say avoid solder. And yes, some people will also say car manufacturers no longer solder joints etc etc, as evidence for why it is better. However, one of the biggest reasons for that is actually cost (remember how we said lower skilled people can do crimps to a good quality consistently? Lower skills = lower pay, which is the main cost in making wiring looms...)

I'd pull the master/booster off. That definitely sounds like something being pumped around. The check I'd be doing is looking for brake fluid between the booster and master. When you pump it heaps with the spongey pedal still, and all bleed nipples shut, does the fluid level drop down slowly in the reservoir? How high up is the fluid level in the reservoir? I have heard the same sound bleeding brakes before when still having air up high in the lines. If you have let the fluid level drop too low on first bleed, you may have air in the lines closer to the master cylinder. Which order did you bleed the rotors in?

It's annoying it's melting the fuse holders, and it's really crap that even the good manufacturers, while they will rate a fuse holder at 30amps, it's really only good for 15amps constant, and 30amp for sporadic periods. Considering you were getting a heat build up shows it had a bit of voltage drop across it, likely from a slightly bad join. If it was in the engine bay, it gets even harder for the holder to dissipate it's heat. I've seen a lot of those holders like you're using not rated for use in an engine bay Hopefully the new fix sorts it all out! A thought on their spec for a "suitable size wire" that is hard for the pump manufacturer to spec. It depends on cable length. For upto about 30 amps constant, on a 5m run, you really should look at about an 8gauge cable. This is pretty beefy thickness cable! But that's what you'd want amps topping out at really on a continuous draw on 5 metres. The same diameter cable you could run 100amp through continuous if it's only short, like max of a metre. All cables have resistance, and their total resistance is based on the length of the cable. Then when current flows through said resistance (cable) you have a voltage drop. If there is a voltage drop with current flowing, it means power is being consumed, which dissipates to heat. A battery in the boot right beside the fuel pump, you can use a much smaller cable, like the size of the cable on your fuse holder. Annoyingly, battery run from front of car to rear, needs to be much thicker for the same current. This is where running an even heavier gauge cable to the rear, and having power distributed at the rear to all things back there, and using negative switching can be beneficial too! electrical and electronics is fun... Ha ha ha

Chiming in regard CFD, especially dynamic CFD. The really really good guys at CFD, typically have 15+ years of hands on experience in actually building the things they're trying to model. They therefore have the real world experience to immediately call bullshit on results, and understand all the fun stuff GTS has mentioned about which areas you can simplify with specific assumptions. I have a few things I'd love to model in CFD. I have enough knowledge to know I'd likely do a great job at generating rubbish simulations

I think you missed the part where his car wasn't running... My main concern of it being "at lengths" is more so in the fact it has been towed. My perspective is probably different to a lot of peoples, as like in the old days, of having a larger block of land, my garage is in my backyard. Which means being a lot more prepared to get in and out with a car than say as I had a thought of, a garage at the front of the house. I'm less worried about my cars that can be driven being stolen. Those ones are insured, and have a few hidden features that make them highly improbable to start, even with the keys. Though, if you do get one running, that's no problem. In my career I've developed a special set of skills to allow me to find them... The other defense for me for my running cars is inside my house. Even my neighbors joke about it with us saying "I pity the idiot who tries to break into your house"... They will be in for a small surprise inside... And yep, you are 100% correct that most of those high end cars are being stolen the way you describe, and they aren't being towed. From chats with a few officers at QPS that I know, oddly enough, the most common theft of the high end cars in SEQ is actually by youths, for joy rides and having fun. Those people are not stealing non running cars with a tilt tray. This specific theft is most likely to have been done by a low life, knowing there is value in the parts of a rolling Skyline. There's a few people wrecking R33's around SEQ that appear a little dodgy in how they run their "enterprise". Those are the places I'd start scoping out myself to attempt to locate the chassis or easily identifiable parts if possible.

I want to see Mark build something crazy old school, like a 4 link rear end, huge tubs, in something like an old Torana with a blown V8

This is on top of the garage you already have yeah? If so, winning! Good to have a second garage for the project car

It's all good mate, I'm in the process of downsizing my fleet a bit too! Currently I'm driving work cars, so much easier and cost effective for me to keep them in top nick

Remind me, that if Mark flips a car quickly after he buys it, that I should buy it, as it'll be polished, wet vacced, really well serviced, and likely have new suspension stuff under it as a minimum...

It can definitely be fixed up, but it depends on how much you plan to spend, if you'll do the work yourself, and what your goal is with it. Some thoughts: You'll likely want to replace all rubbers, so all the hoses, fuel lines, including in the tank. If engine has had manifolds off, chances are a valve at minimum has been left open, and at least one cylinder might be rusty. Rings could be stuck, seals in the engine dried out. Sitting on a farm, chances of rats/mice having eaten the wiring loom. Wheel bearings likely seized/dry, shocks likely dead and need replacing. Brake calipers could be seized. If you're looking to pump it up to sell, and need to pay someone, I'd cut bait and run now. If you want to bring it back and drive it, go nuts, but prepare to spend to do so, especially to do it right.

It's safe, I didn't hide it in the quote of someone else it was a link to a Facebook video, advertising Vevor 10L ultrasonic cleaner, and they cleaned 6 pistons while still on their rods in it.

So to slightly less de-rail this thread, and bring it back to an earlier, slightly more on topic discussion, Look at what the algorithm is pushing at me... f**king algorithms...

Driving on the weekend, air con on full blast, opened a window as dog wanted to get smashed in the face with bugs. No difference in temp, may as well drop all the windows and run full flow air! Obviously these guys live further south in cooler climates where AC continues to operate 😛

Pick up the engine, tear it down! Answer that 25 year old question!!! As to "only so much" ha ha ha ha That 12 rotor boat engine, is the only reason I'm subscribed to him, and I watched his couple of recent vids on building the billet 4 rotors after Mazda hiked the price of rotaries recently. Other than that, I'm not a fan of his YouTube format.

I was going to reply to your clutch reply, but then red motocross and 13B... 13B, definitely get it, find some parts to give it a basic freshen up while you clean it up as much as possible, and sell it. Will likely pay off everything you spent on RB25 alternatively, secure yourself another 13B, and go watch a couple of Rob Dahms latest videos on building 4 rotor 1000hp engines, and how they're making it more affordable for the average Joe... PS, if wife is giving too much trouble, considering investing in divorce. It's really expensive, but you can't put a value on freedom and car shenanigans.

Not always are those parts in a "Nissan" package etc. I've bought Toyota parts, on Toyota part numbers, from a Toyota dealership, and they come in the manufacturers boxes. The current one that springs straight to mind was Toyota wheel bearings, were in SKF boxes from memory. If it gets re-boxed/rebranded, you just pay more. So long as it's the correct/same part I'd be happy. That's the part I'd be double checking with the supplier.

Being in South bris myself this concerns me that they went to these lengths. Can I ask how hard is it to get to your garage? Like is it a garage at the front of the house close to the street, or you need to enter a fenced yard, and garage is out the back?

The question is, when you bled the coolant, did you do so with the heater tap fully opened and heater on? If you haven't, you may have an air bubble in the heater core, double check your coolant level and overflow bottle.

Yeah, but, it's like go and buy a Nissan filter. Nissan didn't make it, it's likely a Ryco etc. You bought exedy, but "they didn't make" that specific part. Chances are, lots of actual exedy kits are, and have been, running aisin plates for ages.

I was all vaxxed per the way the manufacturers said was best way to do it was. I went down for 2 weeks hard core. None of those flu symptoms though, all neural, no breath if I tried physical exertion, fatigue, couldn't think at all (mid sentence my brain would freak as it didn't know what words were any more). Then had long COVID for over 6 months. And my missus, who never stopped being near me, still has never even tested positive to the shit! Are you guys going down with flu symptoms or the non fun neural issues? Lastly, I'd leave the car alone, don't try and start it while feeling shit. Being run down, you're likely to f**k something up and ruin all your hard work.

I'm Gunna say, after just shy of 11 years with my missus, I'm not going to complain about her. When it comes to cars, or even just wanting fun shit / tools in general, she's super supportive. Her questions are like mine to her "Do you really want it and will use it? Do we have money for it, or do we need to plan for this purchase?" Maybe this is what happens when neither of us have kids...

Here I came to add to the shit fight of seat belts vs slings vs other shit... And I find I'm too late and it's in! But my view: I never trust seat belts, as the only ones I've ever had around look like manky shit that I wouldn't trust to hold a head, let alone an engine and box. Those levellers are great, if you know the angle you need before you're trying to get it in. Otherwise, all the ones I've used turn out to be useless, as either handle hits engine, OR the handle/slide bit unbolts itself, OR, there ends up being too much load for the thread to move. My go to is normally chain to front, a chain to rear. Then I add a ratchet strap normally on the front only. This lets me have adjustment to lift the front, and if the ratchet mechanism fails, I still have a chain on the rear under full tension, and chain on front (which could break from a big drop). If there's huge slack appearing in front chain that I'm worried if shit fails it could snap chain then I'll normally add another temporary tight strap, and then shorten the chain up, then remove said temporary part. Most of the time my engine in/out is all one manned, so I don't like taking risks with heavy as f**k swinging objects being high up, and me moving around them. My theory is: First up, I don't want to be crushed. Secondly, I don't need to drop an engine on the sump, and potentially smash the crank or oil pickup into shit. Lastly, try to avoid vehicle damage if shit comes loose.

It's been many many years since I did an RB in/out of my skyline, from memory I used to pull it all out complete with manifolds, but put it back in with exhaust manifold removed. That was with a high mount 6 boost Mani, stock one would probably have more space around it.

What is the advantage in the billet setups, vs the factory one? I can't see how those will fix your issue of tearing subframe as they don't appear to change arm positions etc, which means you'd be changing the hubs but subframe is weak point right now.