MBS206

I find building an exhaust a really satisfying job! Looks nice! Did you consider using an oval pipe to get the same cross sectional area but keep it above the chassis rail?

It's not even really flywheel power. They might assume it and state a flywheel power, but really, hub dynos are measuring it at the hub. Reality of hub vs roller, is the change in inertia, as wheel is gone, and as you said, removing a slip from tyre to roller. Anyone measuring power at the wheel hub, can not claim flywheel power, as we don't know what the losses are in the drive line, especially on cars that aren't brand new.

Be happy it wasn't old auto gearbox fluid. That shit, is disgusting!

ShockWorks actually explain it really really well. It had f**k all body handling capability. And they took like 100mm of travel to build up the dampening you need on a fast action. So it means hitting a huge bump in the road like a pot hole, the shock is doing basically until you've already fallen in. So basically, on a big hard bump, it does absolutely f**k all for a few inches, and then slaps you in the back with a sledge hammer. Whereas for good control, and to absorb the bumps rather than being stupidly bumpy / bouncy, you want the really quick acting shocks so that they're able to control the spring immediately. Basically, MaxSpeeding, terrible for track work, and useless on the road, especially if you have lots of bumpy roads!!!

After having a look at dyno testing ShockWorks did, going to the Cusco, there would be an epic amounts of difference, especially daily driving a car vs the MaxSpeedingRods coil overs. From a bunch tested in the below video, ShockWorks found that even a 20 year old Cusco coilover still outperformed all the others tested, and also showed how epically shit the MaxSpeedingRods coil overs are! https://youtu.be/smNWdkv2i7U?feature=shared

I hear two turbos will help with that...

New race car?

I definitely get the low power, sporty car to drive to smash gears but not be doing eleventy million miles an hour! It makes all the normal drives fun! Rev match tune sounds like the funs! I didn't know the NC had a DBW throttle! As for me, still have the Skyline, it still has the Barra in it. It's been pushed to the side of the workshop at the moment. Pretty much waiting on me finishing the wiring, and dropping new fuel lines in. Got myself an ACDC Tig end of last year so been teaching myself TIG welding to build a few things for the Skyline. The missus wrote off her GTB liberty at the end of last year, and got it back on salvage rights stupid cheap. It's also still registered, so will mean easier for me to take to the track already done most of the panel damage, just playing "clear the workshop" to make space to pull the motor and box out, fix some oil leaks, replace the clutch, and replace a few minor broken things. Also got a Lathe at the start of the year, which is adding to the annoyance of no space, which is another reason I'm trying to build things to get more space, to get the Lathe back in a final home for it. It's a BIG lathe, can turn a 355mm diameter, and 1metre between centres... Got it at a steal! So between it and the TIG and old MIG welder, I'll be fabbing some fun little shit up But we've had a lot of shit stuff happening at home, so it's slow going getting things done. But one step at a time!

Unfortunately this new build series will come a car too late for you Mark... However, he does do a wicked MX5 build already you can also check out...

Ha ha, sorry dose, I wasn't meaning to argue the point on "it'll do f**k all". I was only shining a bit of a light in the flawed logic you used with it mate. I 100% agree that there is zero point changing stock manifold with a stock turbo, unless the manifold is f**ked. And only reason I'd ponder aftermarket manifold on a stock turbo would be that I'm too scared too look at the potential ludicrous prices people are asking for a stock manifold! Ha ha ha

Shhh... Muricans don't understand the idea of metric so can't find half the stuff we have for modifying JDM cars 😛

Your claim of "same turbo, same boost, same timing" is why I commented on it. You can't change how the exhaust flows, not alter the ignition or fuel map, and instantly say one is worse than the other, as one is likely now out of tune to the other. While turbo lag isnt great, it's also not the whole picture. Nor would I say the factory manifold is the best for fluid dynamics. That and most GOOD aftermarket manifolds additionally aren't aimed at stock/small sized turbos, nor do most of the companies building them have a Great idea on fluid dynamics, they just understand and build to the same basic principles. Those aftermarket manufacturers also don't have epically huge budgets to go doing shit tonnes of R&D to get the best performing manifold.

Trail braking done right, should have the rear unsettled, such that you're actually turning the car by a noticeable amount WITH the brakes, and hence noticeably less steering input.

No you don't. Just no more driving in the wet, and clean your window manually before you drive

I'm not sure if they tick your boxes, but Haltech would be my pick. I'm an Adaptronic guy from way back, and Haltech acquired Adaptronic to basically get Andy, AND his IP on how he does things like fuel modelling etc.

Just on this, as there's a huge issue in your assumption Dose. The logic you've given, is the same logic old school NA guys give for "needing back pressure" in an exhaust. If you free up an exhaust system, and keep injecting the same fuel in etc, at the same timing, you'll typically drop power. Freeing the exhaust will often make an engine want a little bit more timing, and even sometimes a little more fuel, but then it'll make even more power. There's many mods people do and "get no extra power" when running a comparison on the same tune. Imagine a car tuned for 91, but now we say put 98 in it, see no difference. But as we now have 98 fuel, you can run more timing, and make more power, as the 91 was knock limited. So just be very wary in your claim of "don't retune it and do a back to back and you'll see". The correct approach would be tune the car with stock manifold, swap the manifold to aftermarket, and retune it again. But no one wants to do that, and all the results we get are "this was stock, and this is manifold changed and tuned" and people put it all down as just the tune doing it.

Unplug ECU. Unplug TPS. Unplug boost pressure sensor. Now, all the wires, placing your ground (black) multimeter lead at the ECU end, measure resistance of the 5V line at the boost sensor plug. Then do the same to the TPS plug. Then do the same for all the other wires that relate to the TPS, or boost sensor. All of your measurements should be very very low. You're looking to see if wiring is out of wack here. Secondly, from memory on the R33 (not a neo motor, so I'm assuming an r34) the ground wire for the TPS and boost sensor are NOT equal to ground of the car/battery. IE, DO NOT connect ground of the sensor to the engine/body of car. You'll get a ground loop, and/or potentially screw shit up. In electronics, ground for a circuit, is not necessarily equal to ground of another circuit. So this leads me to ask, when measuring your 5V, how are you getting 1.5V? Where are your multimeter leads touching for both the red and black lead on the multimeter? If you're measuring power on the sensor wire, and putting ground on the car chassis or negative battery terminal, that could be all of your issues in "getting 1.5v". Electronics engineers can do some funky stuff with circuits, and when both sensors are on, it's enough laid to alter how the ECU is functioning.

From now on read it as minus 5 and minus 7 instead of dash, and you're correct...

Mmmm no, that's a white series 2 R33 GTS-t

Chatting one someone recently at racing them at QR. They say you can't take turn 2 in one flat stick in 4th. They don't have the torque to pull them selves straight, so make sure you're ringing it's neck out in 3rd instead

Many years ago when I bought my FG XR6T, it came with bald tyres on the back (think pretty much smooth for most of the tread) and brand new Kinforest cheap shit tyres on the front. In the rain, I had more grip in the bald ass tyres on the back, than the brand new Kinforest. To the point you couldn't drive off at a set of lights and turn the corner. Car would only go straight. Very quickly all four tyres were replaced. A few years back on a VF SV6 I had, it came with brand new chineesium tyres. In the wet at 90kmh, old 1990s tray back tradie utes could corner faster than me. There was one corner on a freeway, in a 90 zone, it's not even marked to reduce speed for those curve, it's not a hard corner, I could put the LandCruiser on mud tyres through with ease (it would easily do the corner in the wet I reckon at 120kmh), the VF however couldn't get through it at 80, as it would want to slide out. Cheap tyres aren't worth the risk. I like decent brakes, and decent grip.

Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid. If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it. Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap? I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly. To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way? Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.

He could just take the Bogan Cruise Ships setup... Already got a good setup, with blower, the auto was rebuilt too wasn't it? Perfect time for him to upgrade the tailshaft, diff, and axles... And wouldn't need to waste money on redoing the Commos seats, as he could just buy race seats for the 5... As a highly modded car he could avoid the ability to give it away to offspring too when they crash their cars...

It's really interesting how much it's moving left to right, and doesn't appear to be actually spreading. For this to be moving left to right, without flaring, means unequal forces being applied until equilibrium hits in one way or another. Reasons it could be unequal; Piston sizes left to right are different sizes. Only minute differences. Pistons moving on different planes. That is, are they moving directly straight at each other, or slightly out of alignment. The fluid is restricted getting to one side. Some tests you could do. Pull the bleeders on the left and right, fit each side with pressure gauges. It will allow you to make sure pressure is equal (and really, it should be as fluid flow is so damn low, so fluid flow dynamics shouldn't come into it). With the calipers off the car, have both sides retracted as far as possible, measure very very accurately (think micrometre) distances between opposing pistons in four different spots per set of pistons. Firstly, on each opposing pistons pair, the measures on for different spots should be equal. If it's not, and especially if one spot appears to actually get closer compared to another, the pistons aren't aligned, and now the forces left to right won't be equal, as they're the forces fighting each other. You can also pull all the pistons out, and very very accurately measure the diameter of them. If they're not equal left to ight in the pairings, and especially if the area of the pistons on one side is different to the area on the other overall, it'll all be out of whack. My bet, is shit QC in making sure the pistons move in the same plane left vs right. Some minor out of square machining, and nothing will line up, things will want to move around.

Mark needs to get bored at work and order things on here...