MBS206

Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid. If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it. Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap? I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly. To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way? Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.

He could just take the Bogan Cruise Ships setup... Already got a good setup, with blower, the auto was rebuilt too wasn't it? Perfect time for him to upgrade the tailshaft, diff, and axles... And wouldn't need to waste money on redoing the Commos seats, as he could just buy race seats for the 5... As a highly modded car he could avoid the ability to give it away to offspring too when they crash their cars...

It's really interesting how much it's moving left to right, and doesn't appear to be actually spreading. For this to be moving left to right, without flaring, means unequal forces being applied until equilibrium hits in one way or another. Reasons it could be unequal; Piston sizes left to right are different sizes. Only minute differences. Pistons moving on different planes. That is, are they moving directly straight at each other, or slightly out of alignment. The fluid is restricted getting to one side. Some tests you could do. Pull the bleeders on the left and right, fit each side with pressure gauges. It will allow you to make sure pressure is equal (and really, it should be as fluid flow is so damn low, so fluid flow dynamics shouldn't come into it). With the calipers off the car, have both sides retracted as far as possible, measure very very accurately (think micrometre) distances between opposing pistons in four different spots per set of pistons. Firstly, on each opposing pistons pair, the measures on for different spots should be equal. If it's not, and especially if one spot appears to actually get closer compared to another, the pistons aren't aligned, and now the forces left to right won't be equal, as they're the forces fighting each other. You can also pull all the pistons out, and very very accurately measure the diameter of them. If they're not equal left to ight in the pairings, and especially if the area of the pistons on one side is different to the area on the other overall, it'll all be out of whack. My bet, is shit QC in making sure the pistons move in the same plane left vs right. Some minor out of square machining, and nothing will line up, things will want to move around.

Mark needs to get bored at work and order things on here...

Ha ha ha, I read that he had it based on brownie points so knew it wasn't going to be sold I also am only shit stirring on buying, while they'd all be great cars, I don't need more, I actually sold one a few weeks ago. And immediately bought more tools...

In roughly 6 to 9 months time, what mods will you have done, and how much can I buy the car for?

Hey Brett, Before you even get this running, I've found you an upgrade I think you need to order... https://www.facebook.com/100064809843530/posts/846738300829824/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v And it's made locally to you too! Go on, you know you want one to match the billet block...

Nek minnit, LS swapped MX5 project. Also, man, my parents would never give me a car if I had crashed mine! Lucky boy! Or cunning Mark!

If both pumps are only on at full tilt, and even better if he reduces the output of one pump with he other off for idle etc, then when both pumps are on for full tilt power, the injectors are diverting the fuel away from the fuel return line to a much nicer location, which will help keep fuel pressure lower as there's not a blockage/build up of liquid.

Evidence girls always fall for shiney things Brett, I do NOT envy you when you're going to have to try and keep that shiney!

Love this! Also slightly annoyed the reaction shows a love heart, but only calls it a like! Keen to see it in the engine bay and running!

Totally why you should replace your pistons with rotors...

Send it 8500. The head will let you know if you should have shifted earlier...

Seats would really give the interior a huge makeover. And as it's a bogan cruise ship, you don't need hugging seats like a race seat, or material that'll hold you stupidly tight in the seat. I say go for it. If minister won't approve a trip away, it'd probably be $650 return to ship the car down and back, just tell her it's at the mechanics, and woah, you don't know how the seats became leather!!!

I gotta agree that FP wiring looks, interesting. And questionable. I'd be doing some probing to see what circuit is shutting off. It actually sounds like FPCM wiring is partly in use. Priming, starting are all at full power from memory, then a few seconds later drops to half strength, and it looks like that signal isn't getting to your FP, as a hypothesis that is. Needs more probing on a multimeter being done.

How is the Fuel pressure gauge connected, show photos, what's it referencing etc. Get photos of how the fuel pump is wired. I'm assuming there's a relay triggering it, if so, measure what the signal wires are doing. From memory the ECU pulls to ground, so find the coil wire that goes to the ECU and measure resistance to ground. If it's an old drift car, what ECU is in it?

If you've been mucking with vacuum lines, start there, and check you have your vac line on properly, and on a vacuum line that isn't flowing air, it's just a vacuum source. When you measure your fuel pressure, are you measuring absolute fuel pressure, or gauge pressure compared to the inlet manifold?

Duncan just needs to start an epic open pit mine, let it store the excess water for him. Call it a dam and the authorities won't say a word

A creative mounting location would be from the roof. We totally need to bring back ludicrous stereo designs from AutoSalon days...

I could show you guys photos of wrap having been removed properly, and where the wrap was removed, paint underneath is perfect. Sections of the vehicle didn't have wrap on it, and in those areas, the paint work is destroyed because of how long it had been sitting in the hot QLD sun for many many many years. Wrap even still looked decent. Good quality wrap, and removing it properly shouldn't rip off the paint work, unless the paintwork was already shot to pieces before hand.

Never run out of power with all those power points? Ha! Electrics need upgrade, you're missing 3 Phase... Please call when 3 phase is sorted before I have to setup a single to 3 phase to run the lathe...

On a 20amp run, on "12V", if you're getting power for the pump direct from battery in the boot, you should be good on 12AWG. If the wiring is from up front, you want to get to a 10awg.

Seconding Taipan. Either alternator is worn out, and dieing, or you've added some hectic load and it can't keep up. Also, you say "the fuel pump wiring is handling 20amp", how do you know? Have you put a current meter inline? The fuel pump will be wanting 20amp at a set load, at a set voltage, as that load, is what pushes the resistance electrically for the fuel pump (an unloaded electric motor, in theory draws zero amps). Now if you've got the load, but less volts, you've got less amps, which means less torque, so the pump won't run as quick. Add in, all wire has resistance, if you get 0.25ohm resistance in your wire in total, and run 20amp through it, you have 4v drop in the wiring alone. That means on a 12V supply, your pump now only sees an 8V potential across it, not the preferred 12V. If your pump is meant to draw 20a at 12V, that gives it an impedance of 0.6ohms, add in another 0.25ohms, in wiring, and realistically, your pump is now only actually getting 14amps, at about 8.4v... Let's say wiring is perfect, and we expect 14.4V output from the alt, and that is giving you your 20amp pull. Then your pump has an impedance of 0.72ohm. now let's say your alt is cactus, and only giving 13V out, now we've dropped to 18amps. If we claim flow to be linear as we alter voltage, then we've lost 10% of your flow. The above is to indicate, unless you've measured current, you've no idea what it's really getting, only what it's rated for at a given voltage. Shove a multimeter at the battery positive with one prob, and then on the positive feed into the fuel tank with he other probe, check out what the DC voltage is. That alone is giving you your voltage drop from battery to fuel tank lid.

If it's an original "dumb" style alternator, you should be seeing your voltage running, in the 14s A healthy lead acid, charged, is 12.8V, so if your engine is running, and you're seeing 12.8V, you have issues. If you're at 13V, you have very little power going back into the battery. I'm going to guess you probably need better wiring to the fuel pump too, as I bet you have a voltage drop on your wiring to the pump too, and it's probably seeing sub 12V

Except Hondas normally don't need to worry about someone behind them...