MBS206

Was doing some extra reading from ID on this filter (looking for info that I didn't find), and they do state, that the gauge is only really useful for normal return setups, and not returnless. Only way the gauge is useful on returnless setup, is while you're at peak power.

Materials Eng really isn't my strong suit (control, and software is), but, if you knew of a suitable low melting point material (I'll check specs later, but believe it is sub 400c we'd need) that can be easily be bought as raw pellets, and someone feels like 3D scanning and drawing up a 3D model of said smaller part (console lid etc), I do have a plastic injection machine at my disposal, just need the 3D model of said part so I can get suitable mould tested... Could do a hard plastic for main part of lid, and then a softer material as a second injection onto it... Not sure if such a material exists that can be injection moulded that way, there has to be some way that the big manufacturers are automating those items for production...

You should see the compliant mechanisms / moving parts the mechanical engineers are printing these days! Not to mention, you could just print it as a real hinge with a pin in it... Also, Donut Media did an interesting video on repairing an S model Nissan dash, one of the ways they did it was using flocking. Could work for the centre console and be cheaper than a trimmer if cost is a factor...

Micron ratings are useless without the efficiency data like you've given. If you chose between 2 filters, one 20 micron, the other 30 micron, purely based on the size, you could be in for a shit show, as that 20micron may be at 1%, while the 30micron is 100% efficient. On your data, you may be 5 micron, but that's only 88.2% efficient. If wanting 100% efficiency (where I feel a filter should have it's micron rating taken at), your rating would be somewhere at 25 to 30 micron.

If you want to make it look as nice as you can, find a wrecked manual. That hole in the tunnel, is a panel, you should be able to remove the spot welds, remove the seam sealer, pop that panel out. Take the one from the manual, and swap it over. It will be a tedious process to get the manual one out cleanly, but its doable.

This thread feels like a very slow way to claim to be a millionaire these days What sort of R32 are you in the process of importing?

The Commodore crew don't share your opinion, they'll put 400k km examples on blocks

That's looking good Brett! You must be super close to finished (in terms of the list, not necessarily time ) Once it's all back on all fours, and running, is this going to end up like a once a month car that you take for a cruise, or you're planning to still drive it as hard as it's been built to be driven and truly enjoy it? I ask as I know some of us still love these cars for what they are/were. Whereas others are now trying to turn them into old collectible cars that should be in "private museums" and barely touched for fear of the loss of the vehicle.

Did you put a new rocker cover gasket on? Did you check the PCV is installed in the correct direction, AND is functioning? Just a theory, but where you showed oil coming from, could easily be from the rocket cover. The bang you're hearing from boosting, COULD be from a stuffed PCV, pressurising the motor with boost, and the bang being it blowing pressure out between the cam cover, and sending oil with it.

It's the age of case of "Even though we can, maybe we shouldn't do it all the time" so they don't annoy everyone While there's "not a lot" close to EC, that sound does travel. Roll Racing may align with Top Fuel on some nights, so Top Fuel will be way louder, may as well let it be loud at RR. When WTAC gets in, it's a HUGE event, better open it up a little (Being on the start finish line, it's nicer if cars keep below the 95dba limit). 95DBA is pretty darn loud. Especially since it's measured at race tracks at 30m from the edge of the track normally! So think about how loud a car is when it gets book at over 90dba on the road at 1.5m, and then imagine how much louder it is to get to 95DBA at over 15times the distance...

My understanding, is SMSP doesn't have an actual noise limit from the Gumbyment. Other tracks do. Hence they opt in / out of who gets noise restrictions on which days. That is my understanding from like 15 years ago when I was there.

I said it to my missus, I should have taken the offer when you gave. Even entirely untouched it would be worth so much money now!

So there I was, going through some old messages when I find something interesting... Someone offering to the sell this R32 with no engine in it, for $13k... And that was deemed expensive back then!!!

What GTSBoy was mentioning has nothing to do with if they fit or not while stationary. At super low ride heights, the top and bottom arms, along with the tie rods, move into some very odd areas, where as the wheel travels up and down, it will actually start to turn left and right. Low ride heights, end up with bump steer. Perfectly fine if you have a show car, but if you want to actually be able to drive down the road and have the car NOT automatically turn left and right unpredictably (with no steering wheel input) then super low height won't work. Camber isn't the only thing you need to worry about...

Nah, stuff that... R33 boat, with a Barra anchor swap

I'm surprised Japan allowed another Whale to get away from their operation...

Interestingly, I would have thought the oil would be warming the coolant up to begin with, and then the coolant keeping oil temps down. From memory oil runs at around 2.6kj/degc, while water is around 4.7 Water capacity from memory is nearly 10L vs 5L for oil. In my tired ass state, coolant would need to be seeing 4x more heat energy than the oil (which is quite possible, this is an aspect I have NFI on, and does seem very plausible). It would be interesting if anyone has oil temp logging and coolant temp (coolant in the block, not the rad hose) with the stock heat exchanger in place. But I'm guessing most people logging that sort of data these days are running aftermarket coolers and no exchanger.

At 50hz sampling, at 7,500RPM, your engine will rotate over two times between samples. Now when you get the data sheet from the sensor, read the sensor delays. By the time you've lost oil pressure, your engine has rotated a few times around before the ECU cuts power. Now it has cut power. GREAT! Except on power cut, you're still in gear, the cars still moving, that engine is still spinning. Give it another 500ms at absolute best for you to punch the clutch in. That's another 62 rotations. It's still going to take over another half a second at minimum because of momentum for the engine to stop. So if you've got ninja like reflexes and will punch the clutch immediately on power cut (chances are, you won't hit it that quickly as you won't be ready for it), then your engine has "only" spun at minimum 130 times with a lack of oil pressure... Or an accusump means it spins 0 times with no oil pressure...

Have heard of people trying to undo balancer bolts, and not using one of the flywheel locks, instead, jamming the car in gear... Broken gears has been the outcome on some cars...

Your issue with pressure sensing, is time delay. Sensors take time. The ECU takes time to cut. The engine takes time to spin down. All that time = bearing damage possible or actually done. The accusump being a mechanical system however, reacts very very quickly. It's the one thing you pickup very quickly I control systems. Mechanical systems typically react wayyyy quicker... On something like oil starvation, it's best to protect yourself in first line of defence against damage with something like accusump than ECU cuts. ECU cuts = last line of defence...

Manual swap time?

Where's all the oil ending up? It's always been the age old "stuck in the head", but there's only so much volume up there before in effect you're pumping it back down... Or out to a catch can... or is this effectively the way it's managed now? Put a big sump on it, so you can fill the head with oil, and have it "drain" (be pushed) back down, hence, big pump, fill head, run big sump so you end up with enough in it? IE, the oil not draining issue still isn't quite fixed (in my opinion) but rather worked around with the big sump and big pump...

Oh I get WHY people remove it, I'm saying more "when people remove it, this is why we see oil temps increasing more" I'm genuinely curious, with no way for myself to validate it, IF the rear of the engine for example, is getting cooling done a bit more in oils favour, compared to the front (eg, front of engine, 99% of heat control is likely coolant, where as coolant may not be flowing as well in the rear, and hence coolant may now be only contributing to 95% of the heat control in the back of the engine). Hence when you remove the heat exchanger, you see oil temps climb It would be quite interesting to drill and tap the water galleries front and rear and look at coolant temps through the whole motor. Though there are many reasons why the results on this would be skewed and possibly show nothing, even if my hypothesis is true.

This comes back to something I've said in another thread. It really seems to me, the water flow in the block/head isn't working 100% in the engine how we all think it is (slower flow in the back), that quite possibly, the oil is stripping excess heat from areas of the engine, and then using the factory oil/heat exchanger to move that heat into the coolant. This is likely why so many high powered cars that have the oil/coolant exchanger removed, end up needing to run an oil cooler when being used for more than basic driving. Also possibly why engines with it removed and no oil cooler still have issues later on with bearings/oil. Again, this is just my hypothesis. But if you're saying coolant temps have dropped by removing it, then that heat has to be staying somewhere, likely in your oil, so you really do want an oil cooler. But it also means another area of your engine is too cold now as coolant is now 10 degrees cooler than designed to run.

It's what we had on dads 55Chev (And still do have) for the last 20 odd years. Not thin cotton sheets, but good thick soft material. Was multiple pieces stitched together. Worked great, and still is working great Nothing against someone wanting to spend $300, just the option that I'd go with is the other way. If you've already given it a crack, and not liking it, definitely go the route of the nice big made one. I just like to keep my money to spend on extra things, ha ha!