MBS206

Just on this, as there's a huge issue in your assumption Dose. The logic you've given, is the same logic old school NA guys give for "needing back pressure" in an exhaust. If you free up an exhaust system, and keep injecting the same fuel in etc, at the same timing, you'll typically drop power. Freeing the exhaust will often make an engine want a little bit more timing, and even sometimes a little more fuel, but then it'll make even more power. There's many mods people do and "get no extra power" when running a comparison on the same tune. Imagine a car tuned for 91, but now we say put 98 in it, see no difference. But as we now have 98 fuel, you can run more timing, and make more power, as the 91 was knock limited. So just be very wary in your claim of "don't retune it and do a back to back and you'll see". The correct approach would be tune the car with stock manifold, swap the manifold to aftermarket, and retune it again. But no one wants to do that, and all the results we get are "this was stock, and this is manifold changed and tuned" and people put it all down as just the tune doing it.

Unplug ECU. Unplug TPS. Unplug boost pressure sensor. Now, all the wires, placing your ground (black) multimeter lead at the ECU end, measure resistance of the 5V line at the boost sensor plug. Then do the same to the TPS plug. Then do the same for all the other wires that relate to the TPS, or boost sensor. All of your measurements should be very very low. You're looking to see if wiring is out of wack here. Secondly, from memory on the R33 (not a neo motor, so I'm assuming an r34) the ground wire for the TPS and boost sensor are NOT equal to ground of the car/battery. IE, DO NOT connect ground of the sensor to the engine/body of car. You'll get a ground loop, and/or potentially screw shit up. In electronics, ground for a circuit, is not necessarily equal to ground of another circuit. So this leads me to ask, when measuring your 5V, how are you getting 1.5V? Where are your multimeter leads touching for both the red and black lead on the multimeter? If you're measuring power on the sensor wire, and putting ground on the car chassis or negative battery terminal, that could be all of your issues in "getting 1.5v". Electronics engineers can do some funky stuff with circuits, and when both sensors are on, it's enough laid to alter how the ECU is functioning.

From now on read it as minus 5 and minus 7 instead of dash, and you're correct...

Mmmm no, that's a white series 2 R33 GTS-t

Chatting one someone recently at racing them at QR. They say you can't take turn 2 in one flat stick in 4th. They don't have the torque to pull them selves straight, so make sure you're ringing it's neck out in 3rd instead

Many years ago when I bought my FG XR6T, it came with bald tyres on the back (think pretty much smooth for most of the tread) and brand new Kinforest cheap shit tyres on the front. In the rain, I had more grip in the bald ass tyres on the back, than the brand new Kinforest. To the point you couldn't drive off at a set of lights and turn the corner. Car would only go straight. Very quickly all four tyres were replaced. A few years back on a VF SV6 I had, it came with brand new chineesium tyres. In the wet at 90kmh, old 1990s tray back tradie utes could corner faster than me. There was one corner on a freeway, in a 90 zone, it's not even marked to reduce speed for those curve, it's not a hard corner, I could put the LandCruiser on mud tyres through with ease (it would easily do the corner in the wet I reckon at 120kmh), the VF however couldn't get through it at 80, as it would want to slide out. Cheap tyres aren't worth the risk. I like decent brakes, and decent grip.

Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid. If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it. Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap? I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly. To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way? Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.

He could just take the Bogan Cruise Ships setup... Already got a good setup, with blower, the auto was rebuilt too wasn't it? Perfect time for him to upgrade the tailshaft, diff, and axles... And wouldn't need to waste money on redoing the Commos seats, as he could just buy race seats for the 5... As a highly modded car he could avoid the ability to give it away to offspring too when they crash their cars...

It's really interesting how much it's moving left to right, and doesn't appear to be actually spreading. For this to be moving left to right, without flaring, means unequal forces being applied until equilibrium hits in one way or another. Reasons it could be unequal; Piston sizes left to right are different sizes. Only minute differences. Pistons moving on different planes. That is, are they moving directly straight at each other, or slightly out of alignment. The fluid is restricted getting to one side. Some tests you could do. Pull the bleeders on the left and right, fit each side with pressure gauges. It will allow you to make sure pressure is equal (and really, it should be as fluid flow is so damn low, so fluid flow dynamics shouldn't come into it). With the calipers off the car, have both sides retracted as far as possible, measure very very accurately (think micrometre) distances between opposing pistons in four different spots per set of pistons. Firstly, on each opposing pistons pair, the measures on for different spots should be equal. If it's not, and especially if one spot appears to actually get closer compared to another, the pistons aren't aligned, and now the forces left to right won't be equal, as they're the forces fighting each other. You can also pull all the pistons out, and very very accurately measure the diameter of them. If they're not equal left to ight in the pairings, and especially if the area of the pistons on one side is different to the area on the other overall, it'll all be out of whack. My bet, is shit QC in making sure the pistons move in the same plane left vs right. Some minor out of square machining, and nothing will line up, things will want to move around.

Mark needs to get bored at work and order things on here...

Ha ha ha, I read that he had it based on brownie points so knew it wasn't going to be sold I also am only shit stirring on buying, while they'd all be great cars, I don't need more, I actually sold one a few weeks ago. And immediately bought more tools...

In roughly 6 to 9 months time, what mods will you have done, and how much can I buy the car for?

Hey Brett, Before you even get this running, I've found you an upgrade I think you need to order... https://www.facebook.com/100064809843530/posts/846738300829824/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v And it's made locally to you too! Go on, you know you want one to match the billet block...

Nek minnit, LS swapped MX5 project. Also, man, my parents would never give me a car if I had crashed mine! Lucky boy! Or cunning Mark!

If both pumps are only on at full tilt, and even better if he reduces the output of one pump with he other off for idle etc, then when both pumps are on for full tilt power, the injectors are diverting the fuel away from the fuel return line to a much nicer location, which will help keep fuel pressure lower as there's not a blockage/build up of liquid.

Evidence girls always fall for shiney things Brett, I do NOT envy you when you're going to have to try and keep that shiney!

Love this! Also slightly annoyed the reaction shows a love heart, but only calls it a like! Keen to see it in the engine bay and running!

Totally why you should replace your pistons with rotors...

Send it 8500. The head will let you know if you should have shifted earlier...

Seats would really give the interior a huge makeover. And as it's a bogan cruise ship, you don't need hugging seats like a race seat, or material that'll hold you stupidly tight in the seat. I say go for it. If minister won't approve a trip away, it'd probably be $650 return to ship the car down and back, just tell her it's at the mechanics, and woah, you don't know how the seats became leather!!!

I gotta agree that FP wiring looks, interesting. And questionable. I'd be doing some probing to see what circuit is shutting off. It actually sounds like FPCM wiring is partly in use. Priming, starting are all at full power from memory, then a few seconds later drops to half strength, and it looks like that signal isn't getting to your FP, as a hypothesis that is. Needs more probing on a multimeter being done.

How is the Fuel pressure gauge connected, show photos, what's it referencing etc. Get photos of how the fuel pump is wired. I'm assuming there's a relay triggering it, if so, measure what the signal wires are doing. From memory the ECU pulls to ground, so find the coil wire that goes to the ECU and measure resistance to ground. If it's an old drift car, what ECU is in it?

If you've been mucking with vacuum lines, start there, and check you have your vac line on properly, and on a vacuum line that isn't flowing air, it's just a vacuum source. When you measure your fuel pressure, are you measuring absolute fuel pressure, or gauge pressure compared to the inlet manifold?

Duncan just needs to start an epic open pit mine, let it store the excess water for him. Call it a dam and the authorities won't say a word

A creative mounting location would be from the roof. We totally need to bring back ludicrous stereo designs from AutoSalon days...