MBS206

Did you put a new rocker cover gasket on? Did you check the PCV is installed in the correct direction, AND is functioning? Just a theory, but where you showed oil coming from, could easily be from the rocket cover. The bang you're hearing from boosting, COULD be from a stuffed PCV, pressurising the motor with boost, and the bang being it blowing pressure out between the cam cover, and sending oil with it.

It's the age of case of "Even though we can, maybe we shouldn't do it all the time" so they don't annoy everyone While there's "not a lot" close to EC, that sound does travel. Roll Racing may align with Top Fuel on some nights, so Top Fuel will be way louder, may as well let it be loud at RR. When WTAC gets in, it's a HUGE event, better open it up a little (Being on the start finish line, it's nicer if cars keep below the 95dba limit). 95DBA is pretty darn loud. Especially since it's measured at race tracks at 30m from the edge of the track normally! So think about how loud a car is when it gets book at over 90dba on the road at 1.5m, and then imagine how much louder it is to get to 95DBA at over 15times the distance...

My understanding, is SMSP doesn't have an actual noise limit from the Gumbyment. Other tracks do. Hence they opt in / out of who gets noise restrictions on which days. That is my understanding from like 15 years ago when I was there.

I said it to my missus, I should have taken the offer when you gave. Even entirely untouched it would be worth so much money now!

So there I was, going through some old messages when I find something interesting... Someone offering to the sell this R32 with no engine in it, for $13k... And that was deemed expensive back then!!!

What GTSBoy was mentioning has nothing to do with if they fit or not while stationary. At super low ride heights, the top and bottom arms, along with the tie rods, move into some very odd areas, where as the wheel travels up and down, it will actually start to turn left and right. Low ride heights, end up with bump steer. Perfectly fine if you have a show car, but if you want to actually be able to drive down the road and have the car NOT automatically turn left and right unpredictably (with no steering wheel input) then super low height won't work. Camber isn't the only thing you need to worry about...

Nah, stuff that... R33 boat, with a Barra anchor swap

I'm surprised Japan allowed another Whale to get away from their operation...

Interestingly, I would have thought the oil would be warming the coolant up to begin with, and then the coolant keeping oil temps down. From memory oil runs at around 2.6kj/degc, while water is around 4.7 Water capacity from memory is nearly 10L vs 5L for oil. In my tired ass state, coolant would need to be seeing 4x more heat energy than the oil (which is quite possible, this is an aspect I have NFI on, and does seem very plausible). It would be interesting if anyone has oil temp logging and coolant temp (coolant in the block, not the rad hose) with the stock heat exchanger in place. But I'm guessing most people logging that sort of data these days are running aftermarket coolers and no exchanger.

At 50hz sampling, at 7,500RPM, your engine will rotate over two times between samples. Now when you get the data sheet from the sensor, read the sensor delays. By the time you've lost oil pressure, your engine has rotated a few times around before the ECU cuts power. Now it has cut power. GREAT! Except on power cut, you're still in gear, the cars still moving, that engine is still spinning. Give it another 500ms at absolute best for you to punch the clutch in. That's another 62 rotations. It's still going to take over another half a second at minimum because of momentum for the engine to stop. So if you've got ninja like reflexes and will punch the clutch immediately on power cut (chances are, you won't hit it that quickly as you won't be ready for it), then your engine has "only" spun at minimum 130 times with a lack of oil pressure... Or an accusump means it spins 0 times with no oil pressure...

Have heard of people trying to undo balancer bolts, and not using one of the flywheel locks, instead, jamming the car in gear... Broken gears has been the outcome on some cars...

Your issue with pressure sensing, is time delay. Sensors take time. The ECU takes time to cut. The engine takes time to spin down. All that time = bearing damage possible or actually done. The accusump being a mechanical system however, reacts very very quickly. It's the one thing you pickup very quickly I control systems. Mechanical systems typically react wayyyy quicker... On something like oil starvation, it's best to protect yourself in first line of defence against damage with something like accusump than ECU cuts. ECU cuts = last line of defence...

Manual swap time?

Where's all the oil ending up? It's always been the age old "stuck in the head", but there's only so much volume up there before in effect you're pumping it back down... Or out to a catch can... or is this effectively the way it's managed now? Put a big sump on it, so you can fill the head with oil, and have it "drain" (be pushed) back down, hence, big pump, fill head, run big sump so you end up with enough in it? IE, the oil not draining issue still isn't quite fixed (in my opinion) but rather worked around with the big sump and big pump...

Oh I get WHY people remove it, I'm saying more "when people remove it, this is why we see oil temps increasing more" I'm genuinely curious, with no way for myself to validate it, IF the rear of the engine for example, is getting cooling done a bit more in oils favour, compared to the front (eg, front of engine, 99% of heat control is likely coolant, where as coolant may not be flowing as well in the rear, and hence coolant may now be only contributing to 95% of the heat control in the back of the engine). Hence when you remove the heat exchanger, you see oil temps climb It would be quite interesting to drill and tap the water galleries front and rear and look at coolant temps through the whole motor. Though there are many reasons why the results on this would be skewed and possibly show nothing, even if my hypothesis is true.

This comes back to something I've said in another thread. It really seems to me, the water flow in the block/head isn't working 100% in the engine how we all think it is (slower flow in the back), that quite possibly, the oil is stripping excess heat from areas of the engine, and then using the factory oil/heat exchanger to move that heat into the coolant. This is likely why so many high powered cars that have the oil/coolant exchanger removed, end up needing to run an oil cooler when being used for more than basic driving. Also possibly why engines with it removed and no oil cooler still have issues later on with bearings/oil. Again, this is just my hypothesis. But if you're saying coolant temps have dropped by removing it, then that heat has to be staying somewhere, likely in your oil, so you really do want an oil cooler. But it also means another area of your engine is too cold now as coolant is now 10 degrees cooler than designed to run.

It's what we had on dads 55Chev (And still do have) for the last 20 odd years. Not thin cotton sheets, but good thick soft material. Was multiple pieces stitched together. Worked great, and still is working great Nothing against someone wanting to spend $300, just the option that I'd go with is the other way. If you've already given it a crack, and not liking it, definitely go the route of the nice big made one. I just like to keep my money to spend on extra things, ha ha!

Go to spotlight, buy some super soft material. Done! Probably cost you $80.

Are you going to have an accurate oil temperature in your face on the dashboard, AND do you know what a good oil temperature is to maintain? If either of the above is NO, then I'd add one. The reason I state this, I assume, by "weekend street drives" you're not meaning hard parking at a coffee shop, and intend to probably take it through some twisty runs etc with friends. While not as hard as a track day on the vehicle, it could still start to push oil temps up. If you don't know what a good oil temp is, and/or you don't have that information glaring at you in the face, (OR the ECU doesn't have that info to start culling your power etc) then you should run one, or risk the death of your bearings. I've seen a few people even do bearings with oil surge on twisty mountain runs too, even if not hard on the power, just having engine revs up higher can cause lots of oil up top, and then going round a corner, you can pick up air, and bye bye bearings

I was very aware of them using the car's audio system to bring an "exhaust note" into the cabin. BMW years ago started doing things with the M3, like a small acoustic tube off the exhaust, aimed at the firewall to make the exhaust sound louder in the car, without making the exhaust actually louder. This speakers in the exhaust thing though is totally weird, and I nominate everyone to use peer pressure to get the speakers in the exhaust hooked up to a car stereo... You know, two 2Ohm speakers in Series is a 4Ohm speaker, and now you've got one channel for a car stereo Go on! YOU KNOW YOU WANT TO! Imagine rolling into something like a Cars and Coffee meet and getting to Rick Roll everyone with your exhaust DO IT DO IT DO IT! As Nike would say... Just Do It!

You should totally rewire those speakers to play some good awful song at pedestrians

You know E85 isn't meant to go in the 710 hole right? 😛

FYP :D

Hire trailers, I've seen / had some interesting ones. It's why I only put the hire ones behind the Cruiser. At least then I've got a lot of weight up front towing it if things go awry or the brakes be stupid! As to the going to the track/Motorsport event and not giving it a full send... That's not in my vocabulary... Even when I go out going "just take it easy", the stupid demon takes over once the loud pedal goes down Only time I take it a "little" easier is when I'm driving someone else's car... Ha ha

Oh I thought we were just going to use your build thread for chatting Brett