MBS206

Ha! Old f**ker! Im 35. Hahaha

As someone whos work just ran an EV drive / circuit day, I can tell you now, EV racing has quite a few issues to overcome. Main one being batteries dislike heat. Heat occurs from high current draw. High current draw is need for all the zoom zooms... Also, Polestar2 drive really nicely in a sporty manner... brakes need some work though... ... ...

Feel free to take the dash out too Neil, ill come past and collect the Dash and Console from you actually, pretty sure my console might be down the back. Wish I bought a dash before Covid/USA tax hit when you did your sound deadener removal, how much dry ice did you end up going through? im assuming the moment i get mine all removed, I'll need to paint the inside? im expecting paint will come off when the dry ice does its job

Have seen guys 3D print them and get over 1000 uses from one die before needing to reprint them. At about a $1 a set... I plan to give it a go!

Are you going back over those holes with a dimple die to make it stronger than it originally was?

Something happened... but it doesnt look like much yet... Hopefully next weekend a bunch more gets done... It was like this... I got it All tested and plans set... Ended like this one of the connecting looms above i can remove entirely to remove a chunk of wiring. I have brand new Deutsch DT connector to crimp on. All new TE Modular fuse box and relay box to build and wire in. Then should be mostly done electrically

And then?

Bullshit. Aussie stuff great. Its all the china shit thats rubbish and breaks all the time

Oh right! Thatllteach me to skim read, ha ha, thought youd gone 17/19 through it all, ha ha ha

Ha ha sorry i was meaning cruising with low ignition timing (low load area). With all the coating etc should be okay

Bit more timing down low once tuned and youll get the surge back years ayearsreduced timing on my 25/30 when it was first put in, as it wasnt yet tuned, may have set it slightly low at only 15 degrees... high mount got hot while i moved the car from one house to another on a 20 minute freeway drive... and thats how my bonnet lining caught fire...

Yeah this is wjat i was looking at with dual relay and a switch per window. Depending on the current, if I can find a good mometary DPDT switch that will take high current, ill use it direct, with the relay just for switching windows off when ignition power is off. From what ive seen, lots of manufactufers do it, hence the lots of arcing amd carbon burn in switches over time.

Wait until you realise there's now a fastener/driver made called Torx Plus, and a Torx driver fits Torx plus heads. But under hogh torque will strip the driver or head...

I was thinking of just having two switches and no relay. Need to measure peak current on a stalled motor window. From what i can picture in your setup, i cant see how youre using the relay to remove high current from the switch, your switch has to be in the same side of the circuit as the motor. Nexxus, ha ha ha ha ha, man, Id love one, but i dont have that coin. Id pay for the roll cage before a Nexxus. That being said, part of a project I have at work involves a programmable IO module. Its just slightly lower in the order than another project right now. Once done Ill be programming it for my own exact purpose, including a CAN keypad for a lot lower cost than I can purchase a Nexxus for. Do love the Haltech gear though, want Nexxus, Keypad, and Dash.

Cheers mate, will send it through when i get the laptop from the office down the back.

And I was only saying on Friday I wanted a wiring diagram for the window switches, as I want to see how they do it from the factory before I get a double throw switch and 2 relays per window and make my own old school circuit to run them!

Wait, the R33 changed the window switch pinouts between years too? I'm assuming the 8 pin one has lower current control voltages, and the "power amplifier" is to just ramp the current up? My 33 presently has no switches, and pretty much no factory R33 wiring in it. The doors have their wiring, and the boot has the tail lights wiring, that's it. I've simply found to put windows up and down when I need to (Working on car etc), that I just give 12V direct to the window motor... Works great for me, ha ha ha

Hey mate, I tried to shoot you a private message, wanted to pick your brain on some stuff and not HighJack Mark's build, but it says you can't receive messages, got an easy way for me to contact you? Yeah, my brain hasn't stopped since last night while knuckling through all the little thoughts for various applications...

Nah, im.not confused, Ive got enpugh Engineering background behind me to understand It was just the quickest i could find on my phone in a rush. The biggest thing ive always read with people and intercoolers, its all just the cooler acting as a heat sink. Even at a certain point an IC reaches its limit. If you can chill enough liquid, itll last long enough. Now your problem is just carrying the weight of HEAPS of liquid. Everything always comes back to time. But still, back at the start, even on a boosted engine, the big thing youre getting is more time at a cooler temp. For marks main goal, of a street cruiser, it should work really really well to keep temps down, in a compact manner. Id hazard a guess to respond to Duncans point, is the added weight to make it stay cool enough while thrashing it hard lap after lap doesnt add up.

Youre confusing differences between amount of energy moved in terms of heat, and power gains here. Just because youve gotten 12kw of cooling from 3kw of input, doesnt mean youre going to gain 12kw of power at the crank. And THIS is where the laws of thermodynamics will come into play. The other part not directed at your comment, more other peoples logic, as everyone above is yacking about, IF the tubing in your air intake has the air go flying past and it doesnt have time to heat soak, how will it have time to cool soak... This more goes into actual usable power gains https://buildingspeed.org/2012/04/23/temperature-and-horsepower/

I'm going to dig an old thread up, because I find some of the advice in here (And on the rest of the web) relating to Barra into Skylines, "interesting"... If you can fabricate, and wire, it's not that expensive of an engine swap at all once the engine and box is bought. That being said, it's going to cost you more than doing the old slapper RB25/30 build (Which I've also personally done into my R33). Lots of people say you HAVE to space the subframe down to fit the engine. You don't (In an R33). People on the net say you need an extra 10mm in the 32 GTST [Spacing subframe 26mm (R32) down instead of 16mm (R33)]. You can make a Barra fit without dropping the subframe, and keeping the bonnet factory, and without modifying the sump. However, this took me three goes of making engine mounts to do this, as clearance is tight engine to bonnet, and steering rack to sump. You can't keep the sway bar, it needs to be modified no matter what. Weight wise, I never weighed the 25/30 that was in mine versus the Barra in there now, BUT the Barra in mine has the front of the car sitting VERY high in comparison, and that's on the exact same springs. Don't know why, as from memory all the info I found ages ago when searching put both motors close enough together in weight, that it didn't matter. Things missing from the front of mine at the moment: Radiator, coolant, oil, FMIC, Turbo. All up, about 80 - 100KG. I weigh 90KG, and me standing on the front chassis rails, and it doesn't bring the nose down as low as where it used to sit with the 25/30 in it. The above are the main points I find "interesting", some extra info is also below if anyone else ever finds this thread and goes reading. Wiring, there's a LOT of it to modify, if you can research, there's lots of info on doing it yourself. There is also options to spend $1k to $1.5k and get 99% of the wiring handed back to you all done, AND the PATS removed. The exhaust will fit past the steering rack, there are options out there to get you more space as well. I can definitely fit a 3" pipe between motor, steering rack/column, and the firewall. 3.5" MIGHT be a squeeze, but that's BEFORE the options of what you can do with the rack to move things. If running huge power, and a huge exhaust, you need to work out how to swap sides of the car once you're out of the car, that's the harder part. Keep your power levels modest, and exhaust size modest, and it fits across super easy. Fuel lines are on the wrong side, you need to swap them over. Easy fix. Power steering pump is actually on the correct side, fixing a Nissan boo boo. There is bugger all room for radiator / fans in the factory spot, and pipes are in the wrong location (High and low points are diagonally opposite). Clutch master should be changed, I made the Ford master work in with the Nissan pedal. It's an interesting fix, and works really well. My gear shifter sits up a tiny bit further back than the factory shifter. Probably about 30mm going from memory (I'm not at the car to look/measure it, I'm going off memory!) There is more and more and more to this, and there is a lot of work. Overall, I'm really keen to get mine finished off, and am currently trying to get some items done so I can test fire mine, as that will really help me get the motivation to finish it off. Now the biggest thing that I'll now come to, is the "Why did I choose a Barra swap?" And the answer to that was COST. At the time I started, I had my R33 as a rolling shell, as the motor and box that was in it had come out many years ago. I didn't have much factory stuff to put back in and get it running (Nearly all my RB gear was gone). At the time I started it, buying an RB25 and 5 speed box was going to be STUPIDLY expensive. Now, for what I'm building (Again, for the hundredth time) the car to do, the RB would actually be a GREAT option. And if I had a running RB in mine at the time, there is not a hope in hell I'd be pulling that thing out to put a Barra in. So far, my build has me at about $1000 (Excluding car purchase) and that includes replacing some front hubs. By the time I'm done, it will probably owe me about $2,500 in total. I could do it even cheaper, but I'm opting for a few little things I want. That being said, I have time, tools, and now my own space to do it in. If I had to bill pay by the hour at a workshop to do this, I'd be bankrupt. In summary, if I had an R32, with an RB20 in it, and I was chasing more power, the option I'd go for is an RB25... 400+kw is a LOT of damn power, especially from a Barra that makes power in bulk torque! Just for kicks so people know what this car has had engine wise since I've owned it: - Standard RB25DET with basic mods, (Boosted, Tune, 3 inch full exhaust, plazmaman front, 6 puck button clutch, light weight fly wheel) - 2x RB25/30 with mildly tickled heads, and TD07S turbo setup. - LS1 with 6 Speed manual (Conversion not completed, I had to stop spending money on cars for too many years, and hence why the LS1 engine and 6 speed gearbox came back out and was sold) - Barra Motor (Conversion underway, slowly progressing as time permits, and thank god its back at my house, as I'll have more time to do stuff on it).

And this is how we know you've had an RB on the race track

This thread needs more LS Swap... Stu's 32 LS1 was an animal of a car...

Uninstall gauge, low oil pressure worries be gone... Is it possibly something simple like the pickup is partly sucking air?

Stalking your stuff as youre doing a super nice rebuild. I saw the part above, have you looked at doing the braided wire wrap that you can slip over the top of an already made loom? Looks super neat, and available in a HEAP of sizes. Would look way nicer than retaped, but wont look factory.