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MBS206

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Everything posted by MBS206

  1. Jeebus, that's a long wait for the shed! How are you doing all this work without a garage?! 😮
  2. You down in the Swich now Rob? Wanna send your shed builder my way, I need to expand the garage a bit bigger now... Running out of room... Ha ha
  3. No updates on the R33 as life hasn't given me time right now. But... It does now have to share some room in the Garage with something Jap 80s... Oh, and someone built this house too close to the fence... First go, no guides. Yeah, won't put it in this far again as I bet I'll take both the left and right poles at the same time
  4. Geez mate, they hadnt much earlier released the R34!
  5. Ha! Old f**ker! Im 35. Hahaha
  6. As someone whos work just ran an EV drive / circuit day, I can tell you now, EV racing has quite a few issues to overcome. Main one being batteries dislike heat. Heat occurs from high current draw. High current draw is need for all the zoom zooms... Also, Polestar2 drive really nicely in a sporty manner... brakes need some work though... ... ...
  7. Feel free to take the dash out too Neil, ill come past and collect the Dash and Console from you actually, pretty sure my console might be down the back. Wish I bought a dash before Covid/USA tax hit when you did your sound deadener removal, how much dry ice did you end up going through? im assuming the moment i get mine all removed, I'll need to paint the inside? im expecting paint will come off when the dry ice does its job
  8. Have seen guys 3D print them and get over 1000 uses from one die before needing to reprint them. At about a $1 a set... I plan to give it a go!
  9. Are you going back over those holes with a dimple die to make it stronger than it originally was?
  10. Something happened... but it doesnt look like much yet... Hopefully next weekend a bunch more gets done... It was like this... I got it All tested and plans set... Ended like this one of the connecting looms above i can remove entirely to remove a chunk of wiring. I have brand new Deutsch DT connector to crimp on. All new TE Modular fuse box and relay box to build and wire in. Then should be mostly done electrically
  11. Bullshit. Aussie stuff great. Its all the china shit thats rubbish and breaks all the time
  12. Oh right! Thatllteach me to skim read, ha ha, thought youd gone 17/19 through it all, ha ha ha
  13. Ha ha sorry i was meaning cruising with low ignition timing (low load area). With all the coating etc should be okay
  14. Bit more timing down low once tuned and youll get the surge back years ayearsreduced timing on my 25/30 when it was first put in, as it wasnt yet tuned, may have set it slightly low at only 15 degrees... high mount got hot while i moved the car from one house to another on a 20 minute freeway drive... and thats how my bonnet lining caught fire...
  15. Yeah this is wjat i was looking at with dual relay and a switch per window. Depending on the current, if I can find a good mometary DPDT switch that will take high current, ill use it direct, with the relay just for switching windows off when ignition power is off. From what ive seen, lots of manufactufers do it, hence the lots of arcing amd carbon burn in switches over time.
  16. Wait until you realise there's now a fastener/driver made called Torx Plus, and a Torx driver fits Torx plus heads. But under hogh torque will strip the driver or head...
  17. I was thinking of just having two switches and no relay. Need to measure peak current on a stalled motor window. From what i can picture in your setup, i cant see how youre using the relay to remove high current from the switch, your switch has to be in the same side of the circuit as the motor. Nexxus, ha ha ha ha ha, man, Id love one, but i dont have that coin. Id pay for the roll cage before a Nexxus. That being said, part of a project I have at work involves a programmable IO module. Its just slightly lower in the order than another project right now. Once done Ill be programming it for my own exact purpose, including a CAN keypad for a lot lower cost than I can purchase a Nexxus for. Do love the Haltech gear though, want Nexxus, Keypad, and Dash.
  18. Cheers mate, will send it through when i get the laptop from the office down the back.
  19. And I was only saying on Friday I wanted a wiring diagram for the window switches, as I want to see how they do it from the factory before I get a double throw switch and 2 relays per window and make my own old school circuit to run them!
  20. Wait, the R33 changed the window switch pinouts between years too? I'm assuming the 8 pin one has lower current control voltages, and the "power amplifier" is to just ramp the current up? My 33 presently has no switches, and pretty much no factory R33 wiring in it. The doors have their wiring, and the boot has the tail lights wiring, that's it. I've simply found to put windows up and down when I need to (Working on car etc), that I just give 12V direct to the window motor... Works great for me, ha ha ha
  21. Hey mate, I tried to shoot you a private message, wanted to pick your brain on some stuff and not HighJack Mark's build, but it says you can't receive messages, got an easy way for me to contact you? Yeah, my brain hasn't stopped since last night while knuckling through all the little thoughts for various applications...
  22. Nah, im.not confused, Ive got enpugh Engineering background behind me to understand It was just the quickest i could find on my phone in a rush. The biggest thing ive always read with people and intercoolers, its all just the cooler acting as a heat sink. Even at a certain point an IC reaches its limit. If you can chill enough liquid, itll last long enough. Now your problem is just carrying the weight of HEAPS of liquid. Everything always comes back to time. But still, back at the start, even on a boosted engine, the big thing youre getting is more time at a cooler temp. For marks main goal, of a street cruiser, it should work really really well to keep temps down, in a compact manner. Id hazard a guess to respond to Duncans point, is the added weight to make it stay cool enough while thrashing it hard lap after lap doesnt add up.
  23. Youre confusing differences between amount of energy moved in terms of heat, and power gains here. Just because youve gotten 12kw of cooling from 3kw of input, doesnt mean youre going to gain 12kw of power at the crank. And THIS is where the laws of thermodynamics will come into play. The other part not directed at your comment, more other peoples logic, as everyone above is yacking about, IF the tubing in your air intake has the air go flying past and it doesnt have time to heat soak, how will it have time to cool soak... This more goes into actual usable power gains https://buildingspeed.org/2012/04/23/temperature-and-horsepower/
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