MBS206

Watching both videos, at least T2 and T3, his mate drives a different line on T2. Added to this, at the apex he's about 5kmh slower than Dose is. By being slower, it gives him the ability to get on the throttle sooner, so by corner exit, he's already faster speed wise than Dose is. This equates to being quite a bit faster at the braking marker of the next turn. It also sounds like he's giving smoother and more subtle inputs on the steering wheel. T2 sounded like it was a huge rip in on the wheel, and then some wood saw action to regain front end traction. I'd recommend adding a GoPro setup to film your steering wheel work, and one down to film your pedals if you really want to start to analyse and improve your track driving.

Funnily enough the person who would want it runs Motec. And I myself spend a shit tonne of my working time doing reverse engineering of CANBUS, and Electronics Engineering ha ha. Just no time left to take on more projects (I have enough already right now ) Keep me in the loop on what you're doing

Got link to the specific device you're using? I know someone who may be interested in one for his production race car.

Where did you buy all the rubbers for around the doors etc?

Is that an IR setup to get a reading across the tyre, not just a single temperature per wheel?

Adz, is you're issue the steering column shaft going past the starter? Some of the Barra guys grab a GTS4 or GTR rack. Moves rack to column point further away from motor.

When you say full hard on the rear and soft on the front, what do you mean exactly? Spring stiffness? Or shock bound / rebound?

Raising front to rear is wayyyyyyyyyyy more complicated than weight transfer. It changes all of your suspension geometry, and one of the main things it will change is how the car rolls in a corner. Typically, ass up moves the rear roll point higher, and will make the car be more responsive, and too much up, can cause it to become unstable and want to snap about. Front up typically will make it want to do the opposite and be "more stable". However, just having the rear X higher than the front, doesn't guarantee this. Changing the height of the vehicle overall, also affects where the roll centres sit, and how the roll centres move as the suspension cycles. (Remember all that bump steer kind of stuff, yep, it all comes into play). At the same time, it will shift the centre of gravity in the car, typically mildly forward. But it'll be a pretty darn small movement, that driving on the street, I doubt anyone would notice that change in weight transfer as affecting traction. Interestingly too when you look at traction for acceleration, vs turning, a 50/50 weight balance (and the more you get to it) is best for turning. However, for drag racing, while you do want weight on the rear wheels for getting off the mark, having the weight as far forward of the rear wheels in terms of bias, is actually better, and you also want it as low as possible too. Want it to hook better, soften the rear springs up as much as possible, while keeping front roll point low. Go to a larger profile tyre and smaller rim size. Also check out what the suspension is doing on take off, commodores are atrocious that as they squat, they'll dial in quite a few degrees extra camber. It's why all those lowered commodores have epic camber until they fit a "camber kit" which still doesn't properly help dynamic camber issues.

You know they make an LS to Patrol gearbox bellhousing? At least then you'd have some Nissan back in your garage

So, life decided to fill my weekends up a fair bit and I've only just been managing little minutes here and there. I had been slowly working through the full centre panel for mounting switches, as well as a panel for mounting the fuse panel and relay holders to. After a few CAD (Cardboarded Aided Designs), I transferred everything to real CAD, and then pushed it through CAM and spent Sunday evening with the CNC Laser cutter. I had built a couple of months back an Acrylic Bender for this project specifically, and tonight I took the chance to bend the panel up as needed, and mock mount most of it. Hopefully my spare time, and my body hold up on the weekend, and I'll get this actually in properly. There is two small little bits still to draw and cut for the fuse panel, but they're just as added strength for it, as well as additional mounting points for the relays.

Hey, Sorry, didn't see this message. I don't recall any issues with it off the top of my head. I remember it was tight back there between motor, firewall, and inner guard area to get exhaust through.

Well, that saves Mark from needing to research further! I've not looked at the strategy fully of the VZ, got any links for brief read on its strategy and why it's not a proper torque based ECU?

On the topic of throttle reduction, typically that is something a modern ECU will do later on if skip doesn't reduce. Cutting a cylinder is an instantaneous loss of torque to X degree. Adjusting throttle position has a time delay associated with it, as it takes time to start to get the butterfly to rotate even with a good motor on the butterfly. It's a physical item that needs moving, and there is also a bit of a time delay for power to drop away once the throttle has moved due to physics of moving things, such as the air through the runners. Killing an injector stops torque on that cylinder immediately, while closing the throttle might take 5 to 10 more revolutions depending on a lot of variable factors (rpm of engine, inlet design, blah blah blah). I know the Ford Falcon ECU it has a plethora of strategies to reduce torque for TCS, starting with injector cut, and all the way through to closing the throttle (depending on the Barra motor, and my memory it also does things like altering cam advance as this will affect torque too). They have a pretty cool complicated setup in them to do so. It's all tuneable on the Barra ECU

Hey Mark @The Bogan The VX SS ECU, it's a cable throttle isn't it? From memory one of the LS1 engines (VY I think) is DBW, and the ECU uses a torque management tune, rather than matching fuel to air. Possibly able to swap from VX to VY ECU and DBW easily, and then with HPTuners, part of the torque management strategy will be speed, you just reduce torque requested based on speed and TPS.

Just to add to this, it can also save on the old money shifts that happen. Eg 5th back to 2nd can no longer happen. 6th back to 3rd cant happen. And yes, those shifts have occured, and destroyed engines. I'm sure everyone has also had a mis shift like 2nd to 5th at least once while giving a H pattern some fun.

A small can receiver with an Arduino, and a few lines of code and we could have hooked it up to the Link instead

So, I saw you uploaded a video to YouTube demo'ing the Epson EJ-1, I'm curious about it, what communication protocol does it use to the car to get the data for the display? I feel that you need to get that display up and running in the GTR

Subsidence under a road is a bitch. Just look on rural highways, and along the shoulder randomly therell be subsidence holes, just small bumps. That's just from a core sample being taking as part of the construction, and that's what, a 3inch diameter hole at maximum? But for removal of said post Mark, I'd recommend one of the big drill augers to drill a big ass hole straight down through it, and keep performing slow but continued filling and compaction. At least then it's not a huge hole having been dug, just one the diameter of a touch bigger than the post.

You guys need to read VSI06 I think it is. It specifically states how you can actually cut things like the inner guards/wheel well, and it's a non structural issue. This document from Services NSW also stipulates, this is an OWNER certifiable job, and doesn't require engineering.

Nah, I had my one before Zeb bought that one that got passed around. And I skipped the 7M jokes. I had the pleb spec 1G-GTE, with an Auto... it was still hilarious though, such a slow thing, but would rip one hell of an epic skid on the brake when it finally stalled up onto boost... Standard turbos, but holding the brake and throttle, had to wait about 10 seconds for it to build up boost and be able to start to break traction... Ha ha ha

Man I miss my old MK III Supra Such a cool car, nothing overly standout, just... That mid to late 80s era!

That actually looks pretty good Mark! I'll be honest, I was curious how well it'd work on the VX bonnet! The no badge on the front smooths it off too, but defeats the "it's stock" look a little. I guess you have to have some trade offs, right?! I think for me, the only way you could make it look more stock, and a bit more streamline, would be to blend the bulge all the way to the end of the bonnet near the windscreen, and if it was still a little high, make the line of the windscreen edge "rise up" near it. But that's a lot of customising on a bonnet, for something that looks pretty darn good, and fits your purposes! also, I'm not sure it needed a wash and a wax Mark, it was already the shiniest VX I've seen in a long time! Ha ha ha nice work on keeping her tidy, while also playing with mods!

I'd recommend putting children in the bin. Easier to keep the car clean

It wasn't a pandemic in 2019 either. Someone said that statement, and how'd that turn out for us?! 😛

Woah woah woah! That saying hasn't worked safely since 2018!