MBS206

I was all vaxxed per the way the manufacturers said was best way to do it was. I went down for 2 weeks hard core. None of those flu symptoms though, all neural, no breath if I tried physical exertion, fatigue, couldn't think at all (mid sentence my brain would freak as it didn't know what words were any more). Then had long COVID for over 6 months. And my missus, who never stopped being near me, still has never even tested positive to the shit! Are you guys going down with flu symptoms or the non fun neural issues? Lastly, I'd leave the car alone, don't try and start it while feeling shit. Being run down, you're likely to f**k something up and ruin all your hard work.

I'm Gunna say, after just shy of 11 years with my missus, I'm not going to complain about her. When it comes to cars, or even just wanting fun shit / tools in general, she's super supportive. Her questions are like mine to her "Do you really want it and will use it? Do we have money for it, or do we need to plan for this purchase?" Maybe this is what happens when neither of us have kids...

Here I came to add to the shit fight of seat belts vs slings vs other shit... And I find I'm too late and it's in! But my view: I never trust seat belts, as the only ones I've ever had around look like manky shit that I wouldn't trust to hold a head, let alone an engine and box. Those levellers are great, if you know the angle you need before you're trying to get it in. Otherwise, all the ones I've used turn out to be useless, as either handle hits engine, OR the handle/slide bit unbolts itself, OR, there ends up being too much load for the thread to move. My go to is normally chain to front, a chain to rear. Then I add a ratchet strap normally on the front only. This lets me have adjustment to lift the front, and if the ratchet mechanism fails, I still have a chain on the rear under full tension, and chain on front (which could break from a big drop). If there's huge slack appearing in front chain that I'm worried if shit fails it could snap chain then I'll normally add another temporary tight strap, and then shorten the chain up, then remove said temporary part. Most of the time my engine in/out is all one manned, so I don't like taking risks with heavy as f**k swinging objects being high up, and me moving around them. My theory is: First up, I don't want to be crushed. Secondly, I don't need to drop an engine on the sump, and potentially smash the crank or oil pickup into shit. Lastly, try to avoid vehicle damage if shit comes loose.

It's been many many years since I did an RB in/out of my skyline, from memory I used to pull it all out complete with manifolds, but put it back in with exhaust manifold removed. That was with a high mount 6 boost Mani, stock one would probably have more space around it.

What is the advantage in the billet setups, vs the factory one? I can't see how those will fix your issue of tearing subframe as they don't appear to change arm positions etc, which means you'd be changing the hubs but subframe is weak point right now.

When my R33 GTST last ran, the best fuel economy it managed was 25L/100km... Then again, lower RPMs weren't completely tuned, so could have got a LOT of economy back... When it had the stock motor in it, going from memory it ran around the 13-14L/100km economy mixture of around town, and highway. I rarely managed to drive more than half a tank with my brain in economy mode though. Economy mode in my brain was just a constant fight, and boost always won in the end

@Duncan or @PranK the post above from Emporer Gill has had a sneaky edit of Duncan's post to include an extra link in it that wasn't there in Duncan's original post. I'm guessing scam, spam, or malicious content

I was planning on chiming in with... Triple888 fabricator means he knows how to use the tools and put shit together properly (hopefully). But normally all the fun things like steering geometry and what the fabricator needs to do is worked out by an engineer... That's my understanding at the Triple888 level of V8Supercars...

You're here "temporarily". The law actually says you have 2 weeks to change it over, not insurance, however, there's a bunch of reasons around why you legally don't need to, even with being here > 2 weeks.

If you're temporarily here, use your WA rego? I know of someone that has been here temporarily for 8 years and still has Vic rego...

Get rid of all that play. Especially out near the hubs. If you have play, as you jump on the anchors all the play will be getting taken up, and it will be doing so like a sledge hammer on the end of the arm, and shoving impact forces all over the place.

Do you ha e any photos of the damage before you've been repairing it? Are there any other areas with damage occuring, IE, if you strip all the other suspension, are there any other mounts bending or elongating? What about bushes/joints?

Don't go as hard, spend less time and money fixing, spend more time at the track

I think in order to work out how best to properly fix the subframe, you need to understand what the forces are doing specifically to break it. IE, does it appear to be like a purely leveraging issue, such as where that arm attaches to the hub, and pushing straight to the rear of the car (And therefore, is the same happening to the top attachments). Or are you braking so hard it's more of a twisting of the arms around the axis of the of the wheels rotation (Bottom bars going backward, and the top bars going forward). Depending on what you're allowed to do in your class, and how things are breaking, you have a few options: Some plating over the points that are presently breaking. Thickening up around the mount points. Strategically placing plating in specific orientations too to keep as light weight as possible, but provide as much strength as possible. Other thought, is to go an entirely custom subframe. At the same time you could do some redesigning of the arm angles etc to help improve / take advantage of or at least mitigate these extra forces.

What plug gap are you set to? Do you have a factory fuel pressure reg, or an aftermarket one? If it's aftermarket, it should be set to what ever pressure it was running when tuned. Typically it'd close to factory pressure, but I'll never trust anyone who is setting up aftermarket parts on a vehicle.

To add to Rob's reply, Gold Coast Tweed Motorsporting Club also run regular autocross events. Gctmc.org.au Brisbane Sporting Car Club also run regular events as I understand. I believe BSCC does and supports a lot of the Rally stuff in QLD (More dirt than Tarmac is my understanding, though could be wrong ) BSCC.asn.au MG Car Club Queensland also owns and runs the Mt Cotton Hill Climb. mgccq.org.au

That's more what I'm getting at... The spray cans of degreaser stopped being able to get the stuff out of the valve covers at all. Even though they appeared "all clean" Maybe the NPB wash will give you a lot more luck, but will it really cost that much to have the crank drilled and tapped for the caps to go in? (Or really, with your DIY skills and what appears to be access to some cool gizmos and gadgets, I'm sure you can drill and tap them yourself) I can't see that being overly expensive to pay for a drill and tap to be done, and then at least you can get something in there to scrub with?

I'm going to err on the side of caution for you with a recent adventure of mine... We bought a 2010 Kluger, everything checked out that I could on the test drive. However on the way home, after 20 minutes on the freeway, a small prod of the throttle and it was an epic smoke show out the tail pipe. This engine gunks up the valve covers with oil crud, exactly like your describing. Off came the covers, and I love the spray degreaser and find it works really well. Cleaning in behind the oil separator plates as well as I could, soaking it, even bathing it in petrol. I blasted it all through with the garden hose to blow all the shit out. Nothing else would come out, it all looked sweet as, I thought it was clean... Then I decided, I've got a 5 litre bottle of degreaser ( It's a bit like soap, it'll even make bubbles!). I decided to get inside these baffles soaking with the degreaser would be a good back up. Lots of swishing and swirling and letting it soak, doing heaps of thing. I then hit it with the hose. My initial thoughts of "it was clean" were VERY wrong. This new degreaser REALLY got some shit loosened up. It dumped out about 2 times more shit than had already come out. I then dig the degreasing bath again and blasting it. More shit again came out. Eventually I got to the point no more shit came out. But it took a LOT, and what I learned was, the spray on stuff is good for light grease, but getting sludgey, not so great. For the cost vs risk, PLEASE drill and replug the crank after cleaning. Even if you keep with the DIY and get those NPT plugs, and buy yourself an NPT tap. (You still had a spare crank to test on don't you?) I'd hate to see you build this, and some shit you've loosened becomes dislodged under a couple of bar of oil pressure, blocking an oil feed to a bearing and the new motor goes kaput! On a totally different topic, for all the smaller things you need to clean, even things like brackets, buy one of those cheap sonic cleaners. Like the vevor ones. It won't be big enough for things like a crank, but power steer brackets, bolts, nuts, screws, drop them all in. Pretty much anything you can disassemble to just be a metal component (some people leave some rubber gaskets in their items, but I wouldn't risk it myself unless it's an easy to replace part, say like an idle air control valve). Super quick, and super easy way, to get parts back to looking brand new! For certain items you could then do some DIY powder coating too But back to point one, please fully do the crank. Based on your findings, I'd also drop the block and head off to a machinist place for them to bath and clean it properly, considering your crank got an extra treatment the block couldn't, you don't want some form of gunk left in it that could ruin your day in a few months time! My thoughts are that machining, and cleaning everything, are two of the most important things to get right with a full engine build (and then taking your time to get everything built to spec being the next part to be precise on)

Considering the fun you e had with he engine, and theirs no photos of fluids on the ground, I'm suspecting a clutch / gearbox issue and the pic of the engine is a red herring?

Ha ha ha, I have 3 German Shepherds. When we aren't home one of them yells at the school kids walking past, so much so my partner has witnessed the kids psyching themselves up to walk past the house. You knock on the door, all 3 will go be the doorbell. I've already had to replace a front window from a dog going through it... Thankfully it was due to him playing wrestles with his brother, and not to get the postman or something... Ha ha ha But definitely didn't want to hear that multiple times during the night while I'm trying to watch TV ha ha

semi retired life... Wish I were there. Must be very very fortunate, I swear you're not old enough to even consider semi retirement, especially with race cars, ha ha ha

Two months to build a car?! 😮 Dont you people have jobs and other adult responsibilities?! 😮 😛

I dislike Halloween, as I dislike children, and don't want them knocking on my door. Until I watched this video, and so now I'm getting ideas for Halloween 2024, except zero candy, choosing trick every time... https://youtu.be/Zb01RStdzEs?feature=shared

Just to double check this... What engine was in the car originally?

Once you have the driveline, how long do you think it will take to build the S15? What's the current build prospect looking like on it?