Busky2k

Knock sensors only work to an extent and only can retard the timing so much. Also in some cars they only sense detonation at lower RPM and not full throttle/high RPM because there is so much 'noise' that the detonation sensor cant really tell what is what. You come across people who dont really know what they're doing and just wind up the boost to be 'fully sik' and dont even know what detonation really sounds like so they just boost it until something drastically goes wrong. A GTR engine is pretty darn strong and should last just as long as any other Nissan engine if its looked after properly and tuned accordingly. Anyone who gets a rebuild every 12 months a) doesnt really know the basic mechanics of an engine and thus B) shouldnt be owning a GTR if you ask me.

Doesnt seem to work on my girlfriend then!

I bought it from the website. I cant remember off the top of my head what it cost, but 3 day shipping was about 60USD so add that on top of 429USD for the unit + analogue input box and thats how much it was.

Probably just needs a reseal man..

$60 for the RB25 AFM?

I have a Innovate Motorsports LM-1 installed in my car. It has logging and with the analogue breakout box, it can log 4 channels of data including RPM and whatnot against AFR. It has around 40 minutes worth of logging and you can download the data to a laptop later via RS-232 with the included software. With the inputs, you can even make up a table with TPS VS AFR VS RPM for a grid display. Also the forum support for the LM-1 is second to none. www.innovatemotorsports.com I had the extra bung installed into my dump pipe so that the stock ECU still uses the original O2 sensor. If you insist in replacing the stock O2 sensor with the wideband, the LM-1 can simulate a narrowband output to keep the stockie ECU happy. Only a handful of ECUs support wideband input, and I dont think the LM1 can actually interface with any of those.

Most Jap cars are happy to use Dexron III ATF for their powersteering.

The stock BOV shouldnt be behaving like that unless the vacuum line to it is mangled or stuffed. I'd be more inclined to look for leaks eg loose clamps.

IMO, 10-15 minutes is wayyy too long. Just a waste of fuel!!

I reckon its OK! Simple and clean...

Yeah as mentioned, prolonged cold start idling is no good due to the fuel washing down the cylinders. Especially when cold, since the fuel doesnt mix all that well (hence ECU runs rich for a lil bit). Also the extra fuel can end up in the engine oil, which is definitely not good. I've seen plenty of oil analysis where excessive fuel in the oil was due to overboard warmups (ie >5 minutes). Futhermore, warming up the engine by gentle driving brings it up to operating temps alot faster than idling away. This is good in respect to distilling off condensation in the oil, in very cold climates. I reckon 2 minutes maximum, but 1 minute should be plenty.

I dont think the 2.5mm difference in spark plug height (from the gasket) would really do anything (BKR vs BCPR). Either way it should be in contact with the coil pack. I use the BKR7E (V-Power) with no ill effects...

Hey guys I'm using a GFB bleeder and I find that if I stomp on it at high RPM eg 5000rpm, like in the hills, it'll spike by upto 3 psi (ie from 15--> 18psi) for a split moment. This causes my engine to ping a bit. Will the Turbotech help reduce this spiking? Otherwise the GFB is not a bad unit...

I'd go for the Gt2871R with a 0.86 housing (to make the most of the high flowing compressor). However I'm not sure of the streetable differences between the 2 trims. My guess is alot more lag with the larger trim. Maybe discopotato03 can chime in... The GT3037 is just too big for a street RB20 IMO.

Another vote for AVS. Scott is a top bloke...

I would restrain from using MMT containing octane booster like Nulons unless you really really need it. The MMT in that stuff coats your combustion chamber/spark plugs/turbine in orange deposits which is no good. Especially on the oxygen sensor! Next time you use the stuff, pull your spark plugs and you'll see what i mean...

Should be ok Jager, as long as the rears are still above the wear limit.

I'm not sure if the traction control will make it launch or grip better for straightline speed, esp if it just cuts power all together. Might have to borrow a mates GT-T to test the effectiveness of the traction control! Hahaha....

Just wondering, what prompted you to use Nulons E20? PTFE gets lots of bad rap in engines...

Andrew mate, I think you'll find the GT-T missing half of those features that you are after.... I'm not 100% sure, but I dont think it has remote boot release or cruisey... The GT-T isnt a huge step up from an S15 from what I've seen, but I like the NEO engine and the relatively big rear passenger room!

I got a cop shop defect for green headlight globes (yeah a stupid mod) and yeah I just went there, he took a look and tahts it. Didnt look anywhere else. He didn't even ask me to turn the headlights on....

That wouldnt be Phorte's WRX by any chance, MADGT4?

Yeah my wideband has an output to simulate a narrowband for ECU usage. Mainly for people who want to screw in the wideband sensor where the narrow sensor used to be, rather than to put a new bung in the exhaust.

I got a 9 puch cushioned ceramic in my 200SX. The 860kg pressure plate feels like stock! I was hoping it would be stronger. The clutch shudders a lil on take off, but it bites when you want it to. It suprisingly has quite a bit of play like an organic. Maybe next time I'll get the 1 tonne pressure plate. But I do recommend this clutch for someone who wants the middle ground between an organic and button style clutch.

Damn when they open the throttle it really goes off!! What was the test for anyways? haha Makes me wonder how these things last a race...