Beer Baron

you want this: but without receipts etc to prove exactly what is in there, and who built it, and how long ago it was built then you would be best off treating it as a standard factory engine and I certainly wouldn't pay any extra for a car that comes with a lucky dip engine.... which is what you have here.

the starcorps are awesome. buy those. you won't notice it. *this is what you want to hear. so far everyone has advised you not to buy them, but deep down you know you want to. just ignore the other posts and buy them.

yep, either the 9s, 9.5 or 10s will be fine with a 255. I'd go the 9.5s with the 255s. the 10s will be ok, but with +15 offset and a 255 they may come close to the guard lip depending on ride height and geometry (camber, castor etc). you would be able to get away with just a lip of the guards though to cure it. it certainly wouldn't need flaring.

that is one serious piece of gear! more mani pics.

nice dane. looks very good. who did you get to make it up in the end?

yeah that sucks. not much point in testing without knowing if the new rad will cure the problem or not... bummer. sometimes PWR have been awesome, sometimes they are not. I've ordered a few complete custom rads from there before and they were super fast, but a couple of times there were fkups. they are the best though.

not really. the 32/33 GTR box is stronger than the 34 getrag box. a lot of track 34 GTRs that don't have budget for a big dollar box switch to a 33 box. for road use if you do a lot of freeway driving it could be worth it, but then again a GTR is not the ideal long commute car anyway. the swap in a GTR still costs in the order of $5,000 and up.

me too mate. it's the only way to be!

lol. let it all out snowman.

man it looks awesome! even better than you described it to me. it is going to be absolutely mental when it's finished. amazing.

shit yeah. don't sell it to troy! actually sell it to troy, but only on the condition I either get to go halvies with him, or I get to buy his 'old' 32. I can't wait to hear it with that inlet mani and the fancy mufflers. it's going to sound pretty special I think.

the difference is the HKS pipes are very well made, are welded on the inside, not the outside and they have twin pipes of over 70mm vs 60mm for the cheap ones and their single pipe is 85mm or 90mm I forget which. is it worth the price difference? it was for me, but it may not be for everyone.

there is a good chance of a crack in the head. it happens a bit and i've even sadly seen a brand new head that had a very, very small crack in a gallery somewhere inside. it was tough to diagnose as when cold the crack was not open and it would pass the pressure test. only after exhausting every option under the sun it was pressure tested at operating temp and sure enough there was a small leak.

well not any more..... I should add that it's pretty much the same for any production car. particularly newer ones. you take any brand new factory standard car to the track and punish it for 10 laps and see how it copes. the story is always the same. good for 1 or 2 laps. but 10 laps will give you smoking brakes, sky high temps, tyres that are moving around on the tread and possibly even chunks of them coming off. there are only a handful of exceptions. like a GT3 or GT2 etc. and they cost a shitload more than 160K and of course they are great on track, but no where near as good on road.

exactly. like I said, it's at it's most impressive on the road and that's where it's designed to be driven. sure it's quick on the track over a single lap or two but the temps get rapidly out of hand. engine oil temp and trans oil temp rocket after a few decent laps. for any serious track fun you need: new non drilled rotors new high temp pads lot's o tyres trans cooler and better trans oil replace all the oils regularly (and there is enough in the thing to keep oil sheiks very happy!) and by then you really would be looking to get a proper harness and seat in there and convert the paddles to move with the wheel etc etc etc. all costs money. and that's assuming nothing breaks... they are still the most impressive car you can get new for $160K I reckon and stupidly fast in all conditions.

steve-o has it pretty much spot on. i've looked and tried quite a few set-ups over the years and my best one is: tomei dumps (the only good dumps I can find that actually are decent sized with a 70mm+ outlet) the current model large stainless HKS front pipes (the only true 76mm X 2 front pipes, merge to 85mm pipe) cat back as straight as possible an 80mm+ (personally I'm using a Trust TR Power Evolution which is a 94mm race exhaust, with V-band flanges). 90mm is a good size.

they are very much like OZ racing wheels. possible they are OZs, or a copy of them. the old rally design. similar model to this:

do it brisby. in fact justin is out of town for 3 weeks. pop over to my place and we can go down to the basement and whip his box out and swap it with yours. lol, he hardly ever gets to sixth anyway so as long as we leave his gear knob on there he probably wont notice for a while...

if the cars have not left japan yet there is no much chance of them getting here before april. i'd say mid-late april. it's about 2 weeks on the water, but that can blow out to 3 or more with weather, and is also dependent on the route the ship takes. it's not like there's a dedicated ship direct from wherever in japan they ship from straight to sydney or melbourne. there are stops along like way like PNG etc, sometimes they even go to NZ first, then to aus. then you have customs and local transfer from whichever port they land at. then any other dealer stuff that needs to be done.

awesome job on bringing up a 4 month old thread.

martin makes some valid points. an R35 is a big step away from a highly modified R32/33/34 GTR. their performance really is amazing and it's no surprise that they cost a lot to maintain and that that cost skyrockets if you want to drive it hard on the track. an R35 may have "only" 500hp but I can tell you for sure it will smoke a 32/33/34 with 500hp even though it weighs more. it's not just about the numbers. if it were the car would be slow as peak power vs weight is not that impressive. BUT it's how it makes that power, it's how the AWD functions, it's how that gearbox works and how the whole package works that makes it so damn fast. and it's at it's most impressive on the street on some nice twisty roads. sure it's fast on the track too, but it's outright lap times are only about on par with a well driven, decently modified 32/33/34 track car. but the bonus is you can drive it home watching your DVD in your leather seat in quiet comfort. just be ready to pay the bill!

spot on troy. nissan have done an excellent job of scaring people off grey imports with their warranty talk. but in the end they impose so many conditions and the warranty is not exactly amazing anyway. plus they keep changing the rules and adding nice hidden charges. I know plenty of people now with grey R35s and they are all happy with their choice. some have now been enjoying their car (and the savings) for a year now! hell some of them may have had enough of it by now and be ready to sell it before the first ADM car is delivered. you are not the only one. speaking recently to one of the japanese nurburgring R35 test drivers he commented that while the R35 was an amazing car he felt that the R32 was more impressive for what it achieved in 1989 in comparison to other cars at that time.

hey if you don't buy this rare S tune R33 I have an R32 Z tune you may be interested in. it doesn't really look like a Z tune on the outside but there is a Z on the build plate in the middle of the drive line code. that's how you know it's a z-tune. Z tune is far better than engine block special S tune anyway I reckon.

thread closed. grow up all 3 of you. consider this a friendly warning. next time you get into name calling and petty arguments it will be an official warning. arguing with people on the internet is a waste of time and just brings down the town of the forum.

yes it should be possible. no it's not worth it in an R33 GTST. your only viable option would be an R34 GTR box with the transfer case removed and a new tailshaft and clutch etc. you'd be looking at over $5,000 to have it done. if you want a 6 speed sell the 33 and buy an S15 or a 34 GTR. that's the easiest way.