Beer Baron

lol, the changes are hardly ground breaking. 1 litre fuel capacity increase! omg 5mm reduction in length. lol. 5mm. you'll blow that if you use a number plate bolt with a large head. 4kw. well I won't knock that. every kw is a good kw. bit hard to feel 4 of them though when you already have 350 odd. and the alloy wheel changes.... again hardly earth shattering. I thought they actually had changed the wheels, not just painted them 1 shade different. anyway, it's good to see at least they are getting the new changes. the fact that they are looking at 09 allocations though tells me it will still be some time until any land here to be delivered to customers. but it is some progress I guess.

yeah checking the AFRs are one thing but dynoing it wont tell you what kind of ign they have wound into it. still considering it's been going for 9 years it's fairly safe to say it's not damaging the car at all... and there is no way of telling what type of tune it was given. every chip saurus make would be different.

sweet rig. now I want someone to buy my atlas and do similar with it. it's a bit newer than yours, but probably pretty similar. (well except for the alloy pantec vs ramps etc). I've been trying to flog it for months now. at this rate I'll be lucky to get $18K for it. and it's like brand new... so if anyone needs a truck, give me a hoy.

hey Icy, I treat everyone the same. no one would get banned just for chatting or have their thread deleted. I ALWAYS give a friendly warning first without increasing the users warning level. as for my thread, well most of the posts have been a bit personal but many do relate to the car and current circumstances. I do take your point though, some have stepped over the line. so sorry about that. from now on we will do our best to remain on topic. and of course i'm not going to ban you for being smart and trying to pin me on rules. lol. i'm not nuts. but in future if you have a problem with a post rather than contributing to it, just hit report post and explain the problem to a moderator. anway, back on topic. I took a few more photos the other day which I'll upload tonight, and yes the beast is still for sale.

yep if engine is out and you are serious about hillclimbs/ circuit stuff then definately do the front diff. go 1way or 1.5way. cusco make good ones. it will take a little getting used to as they require a different driving style but by all accounts the benefits are well worth it. especially if you are getting up to 400kw.

really? I have a pioneer deck in my silvia. and it puts up the antena whenever the stereo is on, not just for the radio. it's annoying, I only want it up when the radio is on. maybe I can just wire in a switch or something.

well there is nothing wrong with 17X8s that you have now. just one thing though 235s on an 8 is not stretched. if anything it's too big. look at where the tyre meets the rim. you can see it kind of baloons out a little. 235 is the reccomended fit for a 9inch rim. 225 is the right size on a 8. if you want stretch you'll need a 205 or so. it depends how good are you at drift? if you are just starting out get some cheap or even second hand 16s or 17s. don't worry about brand etc. you ideally don't want brand new or good tyres. the added grip makes it hard for beginner drift as they wont break traction at low speed (meaning you'll need some decent speed up to get any drift going). if you are pretty good then you'll be wanting some decent tyres around the size you have now.

firstly more castor won't help with tramlining. if anything it makes it worse. and 265/35s on a 32 GTR are always going to give you a fair amount of tramlining. very few road cars would have such a wide, low profile tyre on the front wheels. and considering the standard size is 225 you can see why there would be a problem. in my opinion 19s on a 32 are too big. 17s are great, 18s good too. 19s purely if you like the look as they don't have any advantages handling wise or traction wise over good 17s or 18s.

glad you enjoyed them. I'm currently choosing and re-sizing a new batch to be uploaded soon. not long now.

yes, if you are SUSPECTED or accused of a crime japanese police can put you in jail and they are allowed 28 days 'investigation time'. ie you do not even have to be charged with a crime! in australia obviously you must be charged with a crime before you can be detained, but not so in japan. at the end of the 28days then you must either be charged or released. it's pretty nasty and a pretty rude shock to any gaijin unlucky enough to get in a tangle with japanese police.

for track use you really need a proper fixed back carbon or fibreglass shell bucket seat. any recliner is always a compromise. velo are quite good. very cheap, and made in aus. i've also liked cobra, mid range price and used in V8SC etc. I've used recaro fixed back too, very nice, but stupid expensive (like $2K for a basic seat). racetech are awesome. made in NZ, not too bad on price until you get to top of the range. i use 34 GTR seats for street, and currently cobra fixed back with head restraints for circuit. it's only a 10 min job to swap seats.

well it's always sad to see another shop go down. but it sounds like you've made the right choice for you mate. best of luck with whatever you are up to next. looks like I'll have to check out the yellow peril at an event instead of the shop, but that's even better.

see if you can pick which one is from china and which one is made in japan.....

ok, here's the pics. not surprisingly it's all good. no rough bits inside. no sharp angles where the Y pipes merge. infact it's a very nice transition, with some very nice cutting and welding. the cast pipes are good too. no rough casting, and no misshapen pipes either. also, the plastic bits of the filter are strong and no dags to break off. the filter foam is proper dual density foam and definitely wont disintegrate (though I still think I'll swap for my apexi ones).

Fark! it's pretty clear where and why it failed. you can see it's snapped right at the end of the steel insert for the mounting hardware. nasty. hopefully the correct shaft will be ok, and money back shows at least the director is serious about attempting to mend his companies reputation with you guys. he should praise jeebus that nothing really bad happened when it failed, like the car getting launched, pieces penetrating the cockpit, major accident etc etc. very lucky.

lol, for 300rwhp (about 210kw atw) the only one you should be considering is the stock standard 32/33/34 GTR cooler. 210kw at the wheels from an RB26 is basically a cat back exhaust and a higher flowing air filter.

well the report certainly seems to pinpoint the cause so i would say you got your moneys worth there. the engineer seems to know what he was talking about and checked everything properly. hopefully it tells you what you wanted to know about how and why it died.

the best way to go is in either side duct. you are not robbing airflow from radiator or intercooler intercooler or radiator is not robbing airflow from the oil cooler you can seal it off properly in the duct and allow a proper path for the exhaust it's safe in there providing you use some mesh in the duct (factory mesh is fine) you can get away with a smaller core as it will be operating very efficiently. it looks neat.

i took some pics of the greddy gear the other day. will uplaod today or tomorrow. the results were not surprising...

yes, the greddy kit comes in 2 different types for 32 GTR. one to suit standard or nismo afms and the other type to suit Z32 AFMs. I've had both kits. the first one was the Z32 kit, and now have the standard afm kit.

come on mate, if you make it down you've got to bunk with the baron. and hit the cans in front of the big screen for the F1.

sure will big buddy. it compliments the basic trust hard pipe kit.

best way to go is trust kit. I've had 3 over the years. one was from another car but adapted to my GTI-R. another was the 32 GTR rad mount kit, and the other one is the 32 GTR passenger side duct mounted kit. i've also used earls and HKS. the trust is the best of the lot. get the duct mounted one. the radiator mounted ones are not a good way to go. it's a very inefficient spot. i know, i've used both on my 32 GTRs. both the same size core, both trust. one in the duct, one in front of the rad. the duct one did a MUCH better job. piggaz one is a good example, rad mount, huge 19row core, chinese one and yet it still hits 110 on the street. a small 10 row trust core mounted in the duct you'll never get near 110 pushing as hard as you can on the street. and that's with a core half the size.

wha? i hope not. we need good shops and guys that are willing to try different stuff. from the pics and info in this thread stu is well up there. i know things are pretty rough at the moment though. anyway, hopefully you can keep going in some capacity mate.

fair enough. well I can't really comment on x-force quality but as far as I know they are just another company putting their name on chinese generic products (could be wrong though). the fact that their dumps look the same as all the other HKS copies tells you most of what you need to know. my advice is avoid ANY brand of HKS copy dump.