Beer Baron

no problem. I was only kidding. anyway, I do appreciate you joining the forum to answer the question. re post editing: users are only able to edit their posts for 2 hours. after that they are locked.

it's a combination of 2 things. 1, cheap ebay/chinese oil cooler kit. they are no good, usually the lines are too long, the fittings are cheap and need extrodinary amounts of force to seal, the o-rings are often bad quality and/or ill fitting and often surfaces are not machined perfectly flat and internal construction of the core is often sub par. but that's the risk you take when buying cheap parts. in this case they are half the price of a quality greddy kit because they are about half as good. 2, the people fitting didn't take account of that. they fitted it as though it was a quality bolt on japanese part which requires no modification or stuffing around. almost always with the chinese parts there is some modification needed, or extra parts or something else required for a functional installation. I just hope it didn't damage your engine, because that would be a very expensive way to learn about the quality problems of chinese oil cooler kits. most likely it will need a different o-ring, or the mating surface may need to be machined flat. something like that. or it could possibly have just not been tight.

i just give 'em a squirt every now and then via the grease nipples built in. i use some axel grease or moly grease in the grease gun.

no one can really tell you what will happen in the future. I can tell you heaps about what's happened in the past though... if I could see the future i'd be making lots of bets on horse races that's for sure. it seems likely that the aud will improve against the yen but how much and how soon is tough to predict given the wild economic times we are in. there a lot of pressure from within and without japan to push the yen down. japan relies heavily on it's exports to keep it's economy going and a strong yen is not good for that. and on the same plane most countries that trade with japan do so in deficit so they don't want to be racking that up in super strong yen. action may well be taken to help force the yen lower but even that is no sure thing. specifically relating to car imports at the moment the best buys are already here in aus. the aud has dropped about 40% of it's value against the yen in the last few months. so buying a car that's already here from someone who imported when the aud was strong makes the most sense. plus the local used car market is very flat right now so people who are forced into selling will be willing to take a hit just to move the car.

welcome to the forum. thanks for the heads up on the motul discount. and you won't be dissapointed either with the 300v chrono or with the 34 GTT.

thanks deren, I got it sorted now.

i'm using the chrono 10/40 for the road. but could be persuaded to get some of the other for the track. I will look into price of drums. I think they do 20s and 60s maybe 100s as well. it's well worth it as from past experience the savings by buying in drum are pretty good.

a keen eye for higeki. guys, I'm so keen to move this right now. I have too many cars, and i'm picking up the R35 very shortly. so if you know anyone after a really neat R34 send them my way. I'm willing to drop another $500-$1000 for anyone off SAU, and if you're in NSW I'll shout you a years membership to SAU NSW club too.

lol, I think you may have hypergear and hypertune mixed into one. they are 2 different companies.

lol, same here 8 litre 26 sump, plus oil cooler. d'oh! wanna go halvies in a big drum of chrono 300V?

I've just used the royal purple in the RX7 but only because I couldn't get any 300V chrono near where I was. It's ok but imo the 300V is still the way to go. don't forget there is a big difference between the various so called "100% Synthetics". The 300V is the top shelf group V 100% ester base synthetic. If you want to know where your money goes do a little search on the difference between group III, IV and V base stock.

yeah, the USB stick doesn't come into it. mainly just care about which one I'll be happiest using. price wise around $250-$300 on ebay for either one. which is pretty good. I think they both retail around $500AUD which isn't too rich either considering how much better these two are than any other offerings out there (short of a couple grand for a pro type one).

thanks thomas. your post does help. the belt drive is important as is a larger wheel and the clutch pedal feel. the other things less so, but thanks for pointing them out anyway. now, how about a sponsorship deal? can't hurt to ask, and I promise I'll tell anyone I talk to how great it is.

can someone hook me up with a copy of fast. i had it on my old pc, but can't find the disks anymore since moving a while back. it would be much appreciated. pm me if you can help out.

my god there is a lot of negative people on nissansilvia. 90% of the people who looked at that blokes graph found something negative to say about it. geez, be happy for the bloke.

nice. put one on your old silvia trent. I'll let you borrow it . can do a comparison to the T517Z that's on it now. it's certainly making pretty handy power out of a CA18. 150kw at 4,500 rpm is not bad at all for a turbo making 280kw on a 1,8L.

good point about the paddles. you're right, when racing the paddles are easier to use since you don't have to take your hands off the wheel. hmm, that's one more point for the G25.

you need to cut off the studs. no point buying shorter ones. that is about $150 worth of studs. far better to cut the ones you have. then if in the future you want to run without the spacers then buy new studs when you need them. easy to buy at niceproducts.com.au

well except then you either rub through loom, or fit plate and rub through tyre. best bet is relocate the loom.

we are flogging a dead horse here folks in the end there are few facts we need to review as I understand them. liz's car had some problems. including at a track day dropping it's oil. liz took the car to trent in a poor state of repair for fitment of PFC and tuning. trent advised liz there were problems in the head, with damaged camshafts, pieces of metal floating around, clogged lifts oil squirters etc. trent fixed the problem with new cams, oil bar, drained the oil, used a magnetic filter etc. liz at this point knew there had been pieces of metal through her engine. everyone knows this is not a good thing and can be a symptom of bad damage, and can even be a cause of damage as those pieces of metal work their way into places they shouldn't be. liz took the car back for tuning aware of that. but possibly not aware of any bearing problems but aware that the thing was far from perfect none the less, and that it's possible there was other, as yet, undiscovered damage. trent received the car, checked it over, and started tuning. now from what he's said it sounds like as the problem became apparent he didn't continue pushing the car, but just cleaned up the hideously lean AFR (perhaps the car was not running the right ecu? from memory this car was the one you converted from NA auto - manual turbo? wasn't it? or was that the old one?) once he'd cleaned up the AFR and tuned as best he could without hurting the thing further he called liz to pick it up. NOW IN my eyes this next bit is the ONLY thing trent did wrong: he didn't mention on the phone that he had diagnosed further problems (ie worn/damage big end bearings), and according to liz she was given the keys for the test drive also before trent mentioned anything. again, as far as I can see that's the only thing trent could have done better. other than that he did absolutely the best he could with the situation he was handed. he absolutely is not at fault for what has happened to the car. I really think he did try to do his best for you liz. i think maybe you have a little bit of paranoia that stems from previous experience and perhaps the way he told you about the problem didn't help. but really, he hasn't done anything wrong.

looking good mate. I'm nearly about to puy my grey 32 together again. I've had pretty much everything sitting here for ages excepts for that one box labelled 'motivation'. still I now really want it up and running so time to get it happening. I might have to grab a set of those heater hoses. I may have some trouble as mine is a 34 N1 Nur engine, going into a 32. So hopefully if I get the same kit you have it will have me covered. I currently have the samco heater hose kit here, but it has way less hoses and cost a shitload more. plus it's blue and I think I'd prefer black. actually, found some on ebay. even cheaper now too. these look good, no branding either which is nice. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/skyline-GTR-R32-R33...%3A1|240%3A1318 also, sorry to go OT, but can anyone in this thread help me out with a copy of FAST. I no longer have it on my PC and need it badly to help finish off some bits I need.

well apparently the porsche wheel is a nicer looking wheel than the G25, and being an exact replica of a 911 turbo wheel is pretty cool too. man this is a tough call. why can't I have the 911 wheel, with the G25 pedals and completely removable shifter, and have it with wireless and a cord option.

you can weld it if you like, but it's not legal, nor is it a good way to go. the best option is just replace your worn out centre with a proper LSD. second hand they can be had pretty cheap, or swap in a 32 GTR diff which are 2 way mech LSD.

bummer. looks like WRC may be on it's last legs as we know it. such a shame.

lol, yeah the 1gb flash disk wont get the porsche over the line! but it does have a nicer wheel, apparently better force feedback motors (3 instead of 2 and some fancy stuff to make it smooth), and it's wireless (still not sure if that's a positive or negative, probably a positive). I think you may be right though, the logitech may be the better overall buy.