Beer Baron

geez, bit hard to say quite how awesome a tune is by looking at AFR. we still need to know timing, boost control etc. but having said all that I reckon my old tune was pretty much spot on. took 3 years of track and street abuse and ran flawlessly and never had any knock to speak of. it was exactly what I asked for. 11.8:1 dropping to 11.5 right up the top (near limiter for a bit of extra fuel up there, no real loss in doing that as peak power is already past anyway).

be aware the nismo upgrade to your 34 box is just a stronger input shaft. so gears etc will all be standard. they made the upgdraded input shafts as a lot of 34 owners ended up with twisted input shafts once they had decent power and a strong clutch. so nismo used to sell the nismo twin plates with the upgraded input shaft. having the 6 speed is nice though. makes for good freeway driving. it would be even better I reckon with a set of GTS4 diff gears.

i dunno. in my eyes, for a GTR with decent power, if you're going to be punishing it, it's a bit too lean. and their AFR scaling is so wide as to be completely fking useless. so it's hard to tell even from that graph what exact AFR you are running. BUT on the other hand they have tuned and built more GTRs than i've had hot breakfasts so I would like to think they know what works better than I do. if it bothers you talk to them about it. ask them why they tune it to that AFR, and maybe ask can you have a little more fuel for safety.

yeah it's viscous. but being 13 years old it could well be open wheeling by now...

you thinking about getting me to steer your car in pro? happy to be your hired gun and even do it for a reduced fee for you. and steve-o mate, stop pushing ya bloody RB30 GTR bandwagon. in pretty much any type of racing in the world cars that have engine swaps to bigger engines than they came with will be in an open class or even excluded completely. you should be cheering that open class is available so you can run in that instead of pro class. that is assuming your car is running!! or just shove one of the many RB26s you have in there and rock that one in clubsprint class.

what is it you don't like about the current handling? My point is it may not be the shocks. it could be alignment or a whole range of things. The S-tune gear is fairly good. since they use a circlip to retain the lower spring platform you could get the height changed if you want to raise it up a bit. but otherwise to improve handling I'd look at getting some adjustment so you can get a more performance oriented alignment (if that's what you want). start with some castor adjustment, front camber and then look at rear camber too. that will be a good start before binning your shocks and starting again with new ones.

1. no. regular pfc is fine. easier to install and much cheaper. just get that. 2. in my opinion yes. I like the japanese exhauts and think they are worth the money. they typically fit better, sound better and use better quality/grade material when compared to chinese made x-force etc. others will argue it makes no difference to performance. as for the cat, yes definitely get a good brand, metal substrate like a magic cat, or apexi, or sard or nismo cat. they will flow more.

i like the redline. it's very good stuff.

mmm sounds good. I haven't seen much dragging in japan. lots of freeway/wangan racing in and around tokyo and lots of drifinting up in the mountains and industrial areas. but i'd love to see some drags. just for something different. the more I think about it the more I think you'll be happier with 2530s or GT-RS. the singles are good. but the more GTRs I drive it seems to be the twins that make the faster cars. look at the top circuit cars in japan. they run twins. there are some singles in there, but it seems to be the 'hard way' to do things rather than the smart way. 2.8, v-cam, 2530s will make an awesome street/track package with lots of midrange which is what you want in a GTR.

no need to machine every time you swap. as long as they are no groove worn into the rotor they should be fine. I would still machine them periodically though. the other option is just get 2 sets of rotors. then for track use slap on your track rotors and track pads, and after swap back to the street rotors and street pads. this is the best option but costs more up front, but in the long run doesn't cost any more, in fact it should save you money.

hell I'll even look after it in syd for ya! plus it's an import for that extra JDM cred, and when you reverse a japanese lady comes over the loudspeaker in japanese to tell everyone about it. great way to meet girls... can't ask for more than that.

mineral, semi synthetic or synthetic has nothing to do with 'thickness' of oil. that only really affects the quality. the grade determines the thickness. a 10w40 synthetic is just as 'thick' as a 10w40 mineral. buy the best oil you can afford. stuff like the semi-synth mobil is rubbish. i'd use it only if you can't afford anything better. at the top end of the scale you have the ester base oil like motul chrono which is $$$. 1 step down you have full synthetic like royal purple, and then go into stuff like castrol edge which is marketed as fully synthetic but is not really. I would also reccomend just dropping this oil and replacing oil and filter for new stuff.

sadly there is really no such thing as a good street and track pad. what works for one doesn't for the other. good stree/spirited driving pads are endless SSS. they are quiet, low dust, and still work well in hard driving. work well from cold too. for track titan HC+ or endless CC-R are good. but they are dusty, noisy and will wear rotors if used a lot in light street braking. pads are not hard to swap, so it's worth going one set street and one set track.

they are called centre lock hubs. that should help with the searching. basically you will run drive pegs which look like normal studs, but they are shorter, have tapered noses, and wont neccisarily be the same number or PCD as your current studs, they locate the centre lock wheels onto the hubs, then the big nut torque it down onto the drive flange (same a normal wheel the centre hub/flange is what drives the wheel, the studs just locate it and the nut just holds it down). it's not impossible, but to make it work you to convert the hubs, and fit the drive pegs, and buy the nuts (not cheap) and buy some suitable centre lock wheels, and a big bar/torque wrech/gun and appropriate socket to do them up. they are obviously only any good on a race car. we ran them on my friends GT3 cup car and yeah they are convenient. since there are so many cup cars in aus your best bet may be to pick up a set of wheels (they run BBS in various sizes) and nuts, and sockets from those guys and try and get hubs to suit.

keep the reg. makes it easier to drive. in some cases easier to compete and easier to sell if need be in the future.

haha, don't stress. you will get a feel for it quick smart mate, and it's easy enough to catch. just means don't trail any brake once you start to turn in proper. and you shouldn't really be doing that anyway, but it can be a hard habit to break. I did notice though a lot of the V8SC guys at oran were trailing some brake (no idea how much) all the way to the apex. I guess you have that luxury when you have a team of engineers to sort out your car, and have in cabin adjustable anti-roll bars, and adjustable roll centre too. duncan is right too, i'm sure new bushes would cure about 80% of the rear end instability in R32s, the rest is down to new arms, and cradle mods and set-up. anyway stu, I need to have a little drive soon to come check out your car mate. you done some great stuff and I'd love to come check it out. will I still be allowed in if I drive over in the RX7 an not the GTR?

yeah it should be able to. I mean it can carry a 2 ton payload in the back alone, so surely could tow a trailer and car, and fit a few hundred kg of tools, spares, esky, bed and pee bottle. maybe even some nudie mags and it already has a nice light in the back to read them by. it's 4.2 litre diesel so torque shouldn't be short. gearing limits it to probably 130 or so though. actually not a bad idea. you could easily have room to sleep/relax in the back. could fit heaps of shit in there and can fit 3 people in the front. can be driven on a car licence (just) and being under 4.5T is still affordable to rego. actually it would make a cool tow car. you could set it up with a cheap compressor (supercheap have one atm $190 off, going for $170 2.5hp etc looks ok), small water (or beer) tank, 240v power, you could get some huge team wang decals for the side. and a beaded set cover for the seat.

thanks mate.

oh man, don't say things like that! I would love it, but I have a mammoth pile of bits for my 32. in fact all those bits are worth more than this car! I don't think I can deal with 2 heavily modified/restored R32s. god damn your car is serious value though mate. especially with the cost of mods now with the weak aud. I do almost want to do it anyway....

hi mate, the noltec type sliding ones are good and strong but good luck getting some unfortunately. gary has been 'organising' a 'group buy' on these for what seems like forever. and as far as I know all those guys are still waiting. the 32 uppers are a biatch to be honest. it may be worth considering the change to 33/34 style. mucho bueno. otherwise cusco fixed length ones wont break, and wont break the bank either, but obviously not adjustable. but you can get some shorter cusco fixed length uppers, then fine tune the camber as needed with some ikeya formula adjustable lower control arms (well worth the coin, they come with new, bigger, redesigned castor rods too). or the other option is buy a few pairs of factory arms, stick new bushes in them and cut and shut to a few different lengths till you get the money set-up.

yeah it will take a while. but they are worth the wait. I think the fact that there wont be many more (any?) grey imports, and the fact that nissan aus will only be able to supply very limited numbers means the prices will stay up there. for my mind the bargain R35 GTR in the next 5 years will be a grey import JDM model with low kms. they will always be some $ below the aus delivered ones (unless the aus ones are watered down/restricted in some way, in which case the JDM ones will be worth about the same). in 5 times time you would hope a JDM model with say 40,000kms will be around the $100-$120K mark. just have to wait and see really. but hey, if gives some time for you to use that $100K somewhere and make more money with it.

agreed. he was a good lad. tom bloody walkinshaw's best contribution to the world was the plastic pig.... I think that says it all.

pretty sure they don't exist yet. still in the development.

dude, you have to completely drain the old oil out before you put the new stuff in. ie. take care for a drive so oil is warm. jack up the front. place drip tray under the sump. take off top oil cap undo sump plug bolt let oil drain out the bottom for 10 mins or so then put sump plug back in fill up from the top to the appropriate level. each car takes a different amount of oil. make sure you know how much your car needs replace oil cap. start car, run for a minute or two. turn car off and check oil level. top up or drain as needed. now enjoy. also, personally I would go with a better oil than turbolight. it's cheap rubbish really. sure it may be 'ok' but there are many better oils out there. if you want something that is actually good, go with motul chrono 300V. very good oil for your skyline to live a long happy life.

oh, I forgot, I have a funny story about skaife. a mate of mine who is a good few years older than me was watching a young mark skaife who had just appeared on the scene racing at oran park in the 80s (I think in a torana). he spun off into the infield just before the flip-flop and ended up right in the middle there. the marshall called for him to get out of the car and come to the safety of the marshalls barrier. mark just sat there, shook his head and wouldn't move. now the bloke is wildly waving, telling him to get his arse out of there. mark wouldn't budge. so the marshall runs over to find out what is so badly wrong that mark can't get out of the car. my mate then sees he marshall pick mark up and give him a piggy back over to the marshalls area. turns out mark had new race boots on and didn't want to get them muddy walking through the paddock!! haha. some skaife haters out there will point to that and say even as a young bloke he was a wanker, but I say fair enough. the poor bloke had probably shelled out some big dough on them and didn't want to fk them up. and at least he took care of his equipment. anyone that would rather be the laughing stock of the old codgers hanging around oran park than wreck his boots in my eye has his prioriies straight! ok, he's a wanker.