Beer Baron

also, any recommendation on where to get a cheap cockpit frame would be much appreciated. I just need the basic frame. I have race seat and side mounts. just need something to mount the seat, pedals and wheel.

hi guys, I want to get a new wheel and set up a little cockpit for my PS3. Now I was all set to buy a logitech G25 when someone showed me a fantech porsche 911 turbo wheel. they are both pretty good, both around the same money and both have very similar features. check out the G25 here: http://www.hardware.info/en-US/articles/am...wheel__Review/1 and the fantech 911 wheel here: http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Fanatec...911_Turbo_Wheel Now, to my eyes the porsche wheel is a little more classy. BUT the logitech has metal pedals over the 911s platic ones. BUT the porsche wheel is wireless. BUT the wireless may give some lag? they both have nice leather wheels they both have 6 speed shifters or sequential shifters the logitech also has nice paddles (911 does not) the 911 is wireless (logitech is not) the 911 wheel looks a little nicer they both can position the gear shift either left or right side the logitech has the metal peddles the 911 comes with free 1gb porsche usb stick they will both work with my PS3. they both cost about the same. so guys, it's doing my head in. Which one should I get? any thoughts or experiences greatly appreciated.

well it wasn't so secret that you posted about it here! fair enough though I would probably try to keep it quiet too if I lunched one. and I still think you are ruggedly handsome also. mmmmm. sugoi! kimochi

let them each turn a lap in it. the bloke with the most spectacular time/lap/slide/roll/crash/scar/head injury wins. the loser buys the pints. my moneys on bloodnut. hope your irish mate has deep pockets cause I'm bloody thirsty!

yes, guys. no more of the arguing. I know people will from time to time say things that piss us off. but we need to be strong enough to post calmly and rationally our point of view, without abusing or threatening people. or even better, just leave it all together and move on to another thread. Quicky is now on a 7 day suspension as he's a repeat offender. MBS206 has had his sentence suspended as he's never had a warning before, but should he engage in this kind of behaviour again that suspension will come into play. NOW. let's all move on and get back to the actual topic.

umm mbs206, you missed the only real mistake in his post which was he wrote sensors when it should have been censors... and the phrase is 'believe you me' not 'believe you and me'. as for you quicky, with your high level of education I would think you could utilise your written communication skills a little better when called upon. now, the next one of you to hurl any insults or any further personal attacks will get a 1 week suspension. you are both getting a warning.

don't worry troy. i keep putting the hard word on russ for ya, and I promise I wont let him sell the 33 to anyone else! it's right up your alley I reckon. anyway, it was a top effort by both mark and hollywood. you did pretty well for a bloke with no talent russ! putting around in that little evo. there would be a few blokes behind you that wouldn't believe you if you told them how little money is the total spend on your evo... especially when they probably spent more on wheels and tyres for their GT3 Cup Car than you did on the whole shebang!

yeah I've been waiting for some elaboration on that too. I think blitz or his birdie was wrong. as far as I can find out the haltech 35 is the only one with a blown VR38 in sydney. you never know, there may be a secret one out there but I haven't been able to find it.

fk me ragged! that is one large sized turbo. all I can think of is how much that puppy must weigh! you must have one strong mani to hold the thing up when it's expelling 800 degree gas.

does anyone have the part number for the bolts that hold down the coil pack cover? and the 4 screws that hold the transistor unit onto the coil pack cover?

32 GTR projectors are H3C.

you are a sexxy beast hooks. and can't believe you didn't give me a drive. I was there on sunday. butthole. still i can't be too upset i'm unpacking one out of it's container tomorrow or wednesday. the last one i'm importing. good work mate and glad you like it.

is this thing still going? edit: i'm a dumf fk. just read the first post again. 12-13th... d'oh.

going out with a bang is not all it's cracked up to be. lucky you've found it now. going out with a bang means you need new crank, new block, new rods ie the whole caboodle which means much more dough. catching it early means you can keep block, crank, rods and just replace the bearings and pistons and rings. a little bit of machining, a bit of assembley, and voila! new SR20 ready to put out some nice reliable power.

YO!

yeah back in the day you used to have a choice. go for maximum power/rev/awesomeness. this will give you race winning speed, but expect to lunch an engine every now and then costing you some points. or wind things back a peg. you may not win every race, but you'll be there to capitalise on others misfortune when their mega rev engines explode. both choices had their merits and it made things exciting. now everyone's on the same page. and all the other stuff just seems anit-competetive and seeks to cheapen the sport. not good.

is it just me or does it feel like F1 is dying? everything happening now seems completely against the whole spirit and attraction of the sport.

lol, adjusting it does bugger all. that adjustment is just there mainly for looks, and also just so you can set it at the right length. all it's their for is to minimise flex. that is the only affect it has. there is no 'drift' setting for it. just leave it as is.

the tein super streets will be a downgrade from what you have. they are the cheapest entry level teins are a twin tube shock about on par with the factroy GTST gear. the bilsteins you already have are mono-tube just not adjustable. I wouldn't bother 'upgrading' to anything less than tein MONO-flex as at least they are mono-tube. but if you really want something better look towards some tein type RS or type RA. they are monotube, circuit oriented suspension, and have all alloy damper body, lots of height adjustment and the valving and springs are chosen and set-up with circuit use in mind. unlike the mono-flex which are more street oriented. be careful with flex vs mono-flex too. the old flex were twin tube, then they had mono-flex, but I believe the new flex are mono-tube, but it would pay to make sure of what you're getting. imo D2, G4, HSD, ISC etc are a waste of time. I've never driven a car with a set that I thought was that good. and they will certainly be a step backwards from what you have now. and yes I even have a set in one of my cars (silvia). I forget which type though, i think HSD. the other good options out there are some good ohlins dampers which are quite cheap out of japan. and if you are buying springs seperately look at some swift springs. they are japanese, and good gear and not too expensive either. now that the AUD is so weak against the yen and USD it may be worth looking at local options which are now competetive on price. maybe talk to murray coote (he does pro-flex gear) who makes very good gear, or jamie drummond (DMS) also good stuff and has some more affordable options than the coote stuff. they both make shocks for lots of top cars in all types of aus motorsport.

ronin 09 was looking at the Z33 rear upgrade but it's a bit of a pain in the arse from memory. in the end he bought a biot offset kit from me for his rears which comes with better/bigger rear rotors and new calliper mounts to position the calliper in the right spot. apparently even those are a little bit of work to fit.

troy, you can go 33 GTR all round and run a 245 on the fronts and a 255 on the rears. the 255s still go 'ok' on the 9. that is providing you can fit the +30 9s on the back with the 255 (i think you can). I just hate it when I can't "fiena" the wheels I want. lol. put the can down before posting!

there are a few differences. top coolant outlet is different. PS different. diff MUST be changed to a 32 ratio. cas is different. i'm sure there are a few other little things I can't remember off the top of my head. but none are impossible. it's basically bolt in. and $6500 is a pretty fair price for a complete 34 motor with harness, ecu, injectors, afms, turbo etc.

well all I can say is I have bought 2 of the genuine trust full piping kits. I ran one on my 32 GTR that I had built in japan, and about to put one on my current 32. and the trust kit works beautifully. it looks great, it fits easily. no modification is required to fit it, either to the car or the piping kit. sure it costs probably double or triple the chinese copies, but if you look at how easy it is to fit, and how well designed and how well made and finished it is you'd have to say it'd be a comparative bargain at 10 times the price. and it's nice to buy the product from the people who spent the time and money developing it, and spent the money manufacturing it from quality materials and to high standards. those companies need our support to keep making good products. otherwise all we'll be left with is the cheap chinese stuff. and it's not just cheap in price....

nismo afms are my pick, but new NISSAN Z32s work well too. I have seen a fair few people having problem with the bosch sourced Z32s though. plenty of people use them without problem, but like I said Ive seen quite a few with problems too. so yeah, for me it's nismo or nissan genuine Z32.

it's a tough one. it sounds like perhaps they would have been wise to not go ahead with the tune after discovering a problem. but on the other hand it doesn't like like necessarily the tune caused the problem. it sounds like it had the problem already due to the problems with the oil blockages and metal (bearing material?) in the oil. so in fact had they stopped before the tune and given you back the car it would still have had the problem you have now. I reckon if you can get them to come to the party at least a bit with say a reduced bill or something then you are in front. most workshops would wash their hands and say tough. we have to see it from their point of view too. I'm sure there are times people have rocked up with poorly maintained and poorly modified cars that are in bad shape and just waiting to fail, then the workshop gets it, puts it on the dyno and it (surprise) fails. then the owner tries to accuse the workshop of breaking it, when in fact it's not their fault at all. I'm not saying at all that is what happened here, I'm just saying that is why workshops behave the way they do, and why they cannot take responsibility for a failure unless they built the thing from scratch, and even then there is no way they can know how a car/motor is treated once it leaves their shop. now having said all that of course they should take all care possible to get the best outcome for their customer. hence the saying: "all care, no responsibility", sadly that is about the best we can ask for from most shops. hell it's better than "no care, no responsibility" which is what we get half the time! I say build it up, and enjoy a faster, stronger, more reliable package. thankfully being a 20 you only have 4 of everything!!.