Beer Baron

all of those little short, split GTR dumps are a poor compromise. they have a tiny wastegate pipe, and a tiny main pipe too, and end up merging into a single 60mm pipe. and when poorly made are even worse. even the genuine hks ones that everyone copied are pretty average. i wouldn't use them, much less the copies. so it doesn't matter whether autobarn88, jjr, xforce, china star or whatever you call them, they are all cheap for a reason. they are cheap. and they were all copied off a flawed design to begin with. the dumps to go for are the tomei ones. this is what GOOD GTR dump pipes look like. if you can find some like this, that are good qual, and not tomei, then grab them. otherwise just stick with stock, or hold out for the tomei ones. they are worth the money.

re-read the post above yours...

well whatever it is get it sorted asap. slipping clutch will only get worse. and if it's just a simple set-up thing allowing it to slip will just wear the clutch out quick smart. I would say it's set-up/install problem. possibly wrong length sleeve/bearing carrier used, or the take up point incorrectly set-up so that the clutch is not completely engaging etc. the other thing is it could be a faulty pressure plate, or even just a clutch not up to the job. but i'm still banking on set-up/install since it's so new.

most people would be running the .64 exhaust housing. same as 2530.

hmm, i'll measure them up when i take the pics over the next few days.

yeah guys, oran park will almost certainly be gone by the end of 2009, so this is a good chance to do a great event there. do it! it's by far the best track in nsw, so drive it while you still can.

yeah it's been for sale for at least 4 months now. not surprising it hasn't sold considering the price. i mean sure it's had some dough spent on it mod wise, but it would be pretty thrashed too being their demo car.

well you guys are in for a xmas bonus session. i'll be having a few days off over the next week or so, and when time permits i've promised myself I'd go through some old photos and upload them. so expect a few more japan trips worth of pics to be uploaded over this holiday season. just call me annual gift man (simpons japan joke).

lol, yes perhaps if nothing happens in the next 2 weeks i'll scrap this letting it go cheap plan and start afresh at $65K. you are right, often a cheap price sends the wrong message and attracts the wrong kind of buyer. higher price attracts the type of buyer who are actually looking for a neat, genuine, quality car so there is some merit in the idea. that car on j-spec is similar type to mine, non vpsec, very neat, though mine has a few nicer bits and yet it's $25K more than mine! plus mine is already here, and complied, and rego'd etc. just goes to show what a 40% decrease in the value of the AUD does for importing cars.

open up the filler plug and see if anything comes out. if oil comes out, you over filled it. from time to time they will throw out oil during hard driving, usually only happens on the track though. you can lengthen the breather, or other solution i've seen on track cars is to make a little expansion tank at the end of the breather. so the breather feeds into a vented tank which then allows the oil to drain back down into the box. but on a road car you shouldn't be having the problem. the other less happy answer is that something is wrong with the box, but it's more commonly just too much oil. yes GTR cannot be filled via the shifter hole as the GTRs shifter goes into the transfer case, not into the gearbox. GTS4 is the same. GTST is fine to fill through the shifter hole, but personally i find it easier and less chance of overfilling and less chance of mess to just fill it through the filler plug as it's meant to be.

have I missed something?

lol, it's pace is on par with my skill level. still it might give that RX7 a shake up as he comes up pit lane the wrong way at me...

word gets around ben.... oh yeah!

and it ended up like this, with the same set-up just a bit more tuning.

hi mate, you may need a little tuning of the power fc done when you get the gears adjusted. yes there is a kind of 'start point' that most tuners will go to and then test a few changes either side of that point. for best result get them adjusted on the dyno. most gtr tuners in nsw know what to do. i had mine done at uas a few years back and I was happy with the job. took less than 2 hours inc all the mucking around adjusting them, and the dyno runs and tuning. cost a few hundred bucks, and netted about 20kw up top and about 30 in the mid range. some tuners will tell you cam gears are a waste of time with standard cams and turbos. my advice is agree with them, then just go somewhere else. they may not do much on other engines, but a stock RB26 with the basic boost up, exhaust, power FC mods will benefit from cam gear adjustment. for 26s you are generally looking to retard the exhaust and advance the inlet. as to how much every car is different, but like I said each tuner will have their favoured sweet spot to start from. case in point: PS: there are dozens of threads on this in FI. it's been covered many, many times.

yeah i'm pretty sure they do. i'll check when I take some pics. i think with this car though I'm going to try and adapt my apexi power intake filters to go with trust kit. i love the trust kit but can't fking stand the yellow filters and i really like the apexi filters (they are bellmouth on the inside too). hks make black replacement ones for their mushroom but no such luck with trust. if I can't get the apexi filters to fit i might at least swap to the blue or red trust filters to tone things down a bit. I might paint the chrome cage black too. I think that would look nice. btw, looking at the pics again reminds me why I bought the kit again for this car. it's such a different look to the GTR engine bay. i love it. it's expensive, but good value if that makes sense.

ok, well for the fun of it I'll pull a trust kit out of it's box over the next day or so and post some pics of the same parts you posted. though I know what the outcome will be as I had one on my last GTR and it worked bloody beautifully... damn those japanese and they quality parts. they keep me broke. here are some pics of it fitted on my last car. the new owner reports they are a piece of cake to take on and off too as needed, and that's with the larger Z32 afms too.

you can use a sleave/insert which goes into the mount holes in your hub to reduce it to the right size so you can use the smaller bolts. or you can get the calipers fitted with timeserts (stainless steel threaded inserts) which will enable you to run the bigger GTT bolts. cost about $100 to have someone come out and do all 4 holes for you. rear i'm not sure on, but that's the deal with the fronts anyway.

email nathan@superlap Bryce he'll be able to help with that. it's going to be a ripper. hell I may even make a fool of myself in a car that's way above my skill level...

you want 34 GTR, and I want 1 less 34 GTR. we should talk. how many 31s will you give me for it? though I guess in your eyes a good 31 is worth 2 or 3 R34s so I'm probably out of luck... and on a serious note, 34 wheels are awesome. I had some on my last 32 GTR and loved 'em. and they look hot on S15s too. trying to track down a cheap set for my mate. I bought an S15 for him, and it desperately needs some wheels. it's white too and they look sweet on white.

I know mate. it sucks. If I were to bring this car in now it would cost me over $70K. I am getting close to giving it away. luckily there is no finance or anything like that on it so i'm not up against the wall to dump it and cut my legs off at the knee. but at the same time I need it gone and I need the money. anyway, life rolls on. things could be worse than being stuck with an R34. it's still a great car to drive in the meantime.

bummer about your car mate. personally I'd keep the 180 going with the SRV you had planned for it, and just use the money frmo parting out your GTR to fund it. in the end you'll end up with basically a GTR with machperson strut suspension and a whole lot of work to get it going quickly. by sticking with RWD and SR20 you get to keep it light weight, easy to build and repair and keep the balance as it was meant to be. going GTR engine and AWD means more weight. more weight up front. lots more complexity and you don't have all that nice cash from selling the engine and driveline from the GTR. but I reckon the best option is: repair the GTR and sell it. use money to buy daily/tow car and fund the 180 track car.

quite a few guys in japan tell me the a050s are the shit. but then again a few of them liked the a048s too which didn't enjoy much success here. i only know one guy who's even used the RE-11S and he was pretty impressed. but yeah a bit early to tell yet. not enough folk using them. and often what seems to work OS doesn't always work in aus.

i just realised maybe the non-flat flanges are designed to bolt to the chinese turbos which also come with non-flat flanges as factory finish.... so maybe it's not the chinese piping that's at fault. it's your stupid japanese turbo-chargers with their stupid flat flange face... and your stupid japanese car with non spaghetti moveable engine mounts to allow proper positioning.

the pics of the flange on the table was pure gold! just for interests sake I'll take some pics of my actual trust kit as opposed to the trust "inspired" or trust "style' or even better "T Style" kits out there. i could have misplaced faith in japanese parts but my bet is the flanges are flat, the casting is smooth, the round bits are round not oval and there is no jagged bits of pipe or 'e-z-break' plastic.