Beer Baron

cool post! now how about getting around to a seat for me.... thanks..

well NO stands for normally open and NC for.... you guessed it normally closed. so you'll only be using one or the other depending on the type of solenoid/set-up you have. not both. so if you are plumbing up the NO line then of course the NC port is connected to nothing.

steve mate, you can't just buy and use wiggins clamps. they are a completely different style of fitting are not designed to work with normal piping and silicone joiners and require you weld fittings to each piece of pipe to be joined. they work very similarly to V-band type systems where you have a machined flat flange on each piece of pipe that butt together then a clamp over the top. except the wiggins clamps also have some kind of membrane to make them seal better. they cost a shitload and then you pay again for remove all your piping and modify it all to suit. and you can toss all your silicone joiners away too. not worth it. I use and swear by sard dual bead clamps. unlike cheap arse hose clamps (and even many t-bolt type clamps) that are just a flat strap around your silicone the sard dual bead clamps have 2 'ridges' aka 'beads' that create a high pressure point and seal. they also have an inner piece (the dual bead bit with edges folded back 90 degrees) and then the strap on the outside so that it doesn't rip into your silicone as it spins around. most of the cheap t-bolt clamps are not much good either as they are just a flat strap type clamp too and all they do is exert a metric f**kload of force onto your piping which is NOT what is needed. a good lip/flare on the pipe is important as is good quality joiner (they ultra thick cheap ones aren't always good) and then a good clamp appropriately tightened. the good news is sard just repackage someone elses dual bead clamps. I can't remember the brand but if you could find them direct they could be even cheaper than buying from sard. pics:

that is not a good sign...

yep, it's common. and they are easy to remove/replace. I swapped mine out for the nismo one a few years ago and the creaking (impending doom) went away. it's easy to reinforce the stock one too with some strategic welding and a few bits of scrap metal.

I wouldn't. have a look around at people who've used 'upgraded' jim berry clutches with stock flywheels. search for "benm"s threads for a start...

Kel! what are you doing to yourself! don't use your knee as a brake...

i reckon the simple way would be to make it for japanese made cars. it's a japanse style event, with sponsors that cater mainly to japanese sports cars, with the bulk of enthusiasts driving and/or entering in japanese made cars, but last year was won by an english made, aussie modified, japanese powered GT car. wha?

stop bumping your thread. and do some research. 10.7 at the top end is actually very rich. to me it just looks like a regular standard ecu with more boost than stock. that is what they do. it's leaner at low RPM as it comes out of cruise (closed loop) mode.

for road use the bridgestones are better. they are quieter, less prone to tramline and have superior wet weather performance. the only time and place the dunlops are better is on the track. so unless you're buying your R35 for trackdays/racing/ralling then forget about it. just enjoy whichever tyres your spec 35 comes with.

very good points troy. but the HPE's are different to the GT3 Cup Cars..... they're faster!!!!! and you're right, it's not really the spirit of the thing. no one turns up at tsukuba with a Super GT car (though M-speed are getting close I guess...).

hahaha, ok that counts all 3 of us out then..... harsh but true. we are all 'ample gentlemen' though I have shed a few kgs in recent months, and I'm sure the chronic diarrhoea troy is suffering in india may see him at fighting weight soon. fatz...... well fatz is just awesome at any weight. just more of him to cuddle.

not mark or russ. theirs is black.

how much power have you got? are you an experienced track driver, or sort of starting out? what tyres are you using on track? they all make a difference. my advise is try it once with hicas still there. it wont kill you providing you know how to drive within your limits. if you don't like it, then get rid of it. most people that had really bad problems with hicas I would say had hicas that was not working properly and/or worn bushes in the rear end (there are plenty and most of them contribute to a vague feeling rear end). in my 32 GTR when it was working properly it was not a major problem. you get a feel for how to drive it pretty quickly, but it does add sometimes that feeling like the rear is just about to, or is slightly slipping when it's not, but like I said you learn to deal with it pretty quickly. once removed and providing everything else in the rear end is good basically you gain some predictability. if you like going to the track a lot, and end up with more power, and good competition tyres, and better suspension etc then sure, get rid of hicas. if the car is mostly a road car then it's not a big problem. especially if you have a fairly stock car power wise. you shouldn't be getting any power oversteer at 80km/h+ it just doesn't have enough power to do that (unless on purpose). slow speed stuff sure, but not the big stuff.

$1200 is what an average to good set of 18inch road tyres cost. really good ones will be over $2K just for the tyres. it's also what a good set of 18inch rims will cost. budget $1200 for some average to good tyres. plenty to choose from in that budget that will still be quite good. budget $1000-$1500 for some nice second hand japanese wheels. might even score some forged aluminium ones for that much. try and return the 'awesome' wheel and 'tyre' package you got from BJ but don't hold your breath. perhaps keep them as a spare set for skidpads etc. or try and sell them on a magna or some other forum like that (find out what else they'll fit). they may also fit better on a GTST. but they are not GTR size/offset so no chance of any other GTR owner buying them.

great job beer baron.....

have I ever told you that you remind me of earl from my name is earl. not just the looks, but something in your mannerisms means you are now earl to me.

I didn't know Roy was there..... lol. BLOODNUT!!!

good result, but I would love to see a graph of what difference it made at the same boost. I know you're saying you couldn't run more boost with the 98RON, but it was only running 14psi at the top end with a spike to 21psi as it ramped onto boost. I would just want to see what gain the fuel itself made. same boost, but with more timing etc it can apparently take. as it is a lot of that gain would be from more boost (more air + more fuel = more power of course), and i'm a bit surprised that the most you could run was 14psi on 98RON. anyway, enjoy the new power and sweet smelling, cheap fuel.

ok, i have a couple of points too: the advise that a bent strut (shock) could cause your camber problem was completely incorrect. on a machperson strut type suspension that is true and happens a bit. GTRs have wishbones. the camber is not affected by the strut. it's adjusted by the length of the upper or lower control arms. so they were completely wrong on that front, and it's quite possible there was nothing wrong with your other suspension. it was most likely the deformed bushes that you replaced that were causing the camber problem. that is why you fit a 'camber kit' there as they are offset bushes that effectively lengthen or shorten the upper control arm to adjust camber on the front. the lower ball joint nut is important. from memory there should be a split pin there to stop it just falling off, but it shouldn't be the only thing keeping it on. getting that fixed would be a good idea. at the best explain to them what I've told you and perhaps they may let you trade in the rims on something more suitable. sadly most of the aussie now, the wheels. the standard wheels on a 32 GTR are 16X8 +30 on a 33 GTR 17X9 +30 and a 34 GTR runs 18X9 +30. i'm guessing they've given you a set of 18X8 +36 which are really not the right width or offset for a 32 GTR. they wont be causing (or shouldn't be) any problems and are by no means unsafe, but they definitely are wrong. they'd be more suited to a magna or something. you want something between 18X9 and 18X10 with an offset between +20 and +25. that will be ideal for your R32 GTR. or the most popular and in my view probably the most 'comfortable' size on a 32 is a 17X9 +20 with a 245 or 255 wide tyre on it (or 235 if you're using semi slicks). the wrong wheels wont bend your steering column. check that you have the same size tyres both front and rear. if they have fitted different size tyres front and rear then it can and will damage your all wheel drive and would cause problems with hicas etc too and can make the car drive 'funny'. if they have fitted different size wheels or tyres front to rear then you 100% have a case to get your money back and if it's caused damage to the AWD you may have a case for them to foot some or all of that repair bill too. they will also cosmetically look terrible as you have a big diameter wheel with narrow tyres and an offset that means the wheel is sunken in to the guards.

yes and standard 32/33 GTR is 4.11:1 (37:9 from memory). the GTS4 35:8 (4.375:1) is a common upgrade as you can get front and rear that fit into a 32 GTR. I can't say I know what comes with a 4.36:1 ratio... if you've been having any AWD problems it's worth checking your rear diff to make sure the ratios match.

all I heard was... YAARRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!

the SR people refer to are a bridgestone compound. not dunlop R's.

cool car ben! glad to see you got something finally. it is a shame they let you down so badly though. but hey, you've got 'a' car now so hop in and enjoy. take it up to maccas for some drive through I say.... (on the trailer of course...).

lol, they don't need luck, sea captain. they have a GTR....