Bl4cK32

Im currently around 10 to 11 lts per 100kms. Running rx7 550'c on a slightly modded rb25 pfc base map (10 if i baby it, 11 or more if i give it some..) Shaun has had it running better though...but we had a play with the datalogit and changed a few things.... When i fix my coil problem soon, i'll throw some 3.6 or 3.9 diff gearing in and Shaun said he's gunna tune it up for me

not quite right are ya cubes....

I think they sent my twin plate to Xtreme clutch and they said it had the wrong thrust bearing carrier with it, and thats what may have damaged the clutch (bent metal plates). I agree with cubes, set it up as per std -std pivot, fork, and slave. Master can stay as rb20 item. Find out the right carrier to go with that clutch for the rb25 box. Then fit the twin and u should be right. Changing to a shorter carrier may not be the answer. U need to find what length for that clutch in that box.

works for me...try again or this one is the same - http://www.tigerdirect.com.au/product_info...f410cfec8fee961

yup same card as i want, except the factory oc 550MHz version (savens me farking with it ) http://www.itelectrical.com/catalog/produc...3b2fce14f5f3653

I like the fact i can run more than 1 thing without slowing down too. Im always on the net with like 3 or so windows open, and it pisses me off i have to switch between window and have to wait for other programs to finish before i can do something else... It might be due to the fact im still using a p3 800 I have found a complete asetek watercooling setup with 1/2" tubing (cpu/gpu/chipset blocks) with 2x120mm rad/fans for $200 as well so overclocking is a definite I'll set the thing up first and see how it goes before i install it and push it... With regards to gpu's....can someone confirm vivo - video in, video out? The price has come down, and some have this feature on em, just wondering if its worth having??

are rb20 / 25 / 26 clutches all interchangeable? only rb20, rb25 series 1, and r32 gtr had the box in and out changing things on it - changed the pivot ball to a longer one, as the clutch fork had play before and not even touching the slave cyl... but now the pin sits up on the fork nicely that sounds like a problem there. From memory the slave should be touching the fork whithout pressure on the pedal. I cant remember if you can just turn the pin to make it longer to take up freeplay?? cut the back of the carrier inside (i think thats what it was about 4mm) the bellhousing move it back a little as it was almost like the thrustbearing was constantly touching the fins (or front of the clutch) i think its supposed to be.... the clutch pedal only has about 10-15% of the full pedal's worth that actually is being used to engage -disengage the clutch have you got under the dash to lenghten the master cylinder rod to adjust the pedal? rb25 box bolted straight up to rb20 motor - lengths were the same - gear lever comes out the transtunnel in the right spot etc... did you change bearing carrier over when you changed the clutches? make sure you have the right one in. This can stuff the clutch...

on track just waiting for last few payments. Hopefully order them in a week or so.

i bought mine as advertised 95% new, and it had 95% meat left on it. The guys sent it off to be checked, and the metal plates were bent 40 thou, and it required a new bearing carrier. I was lucky as it cost $450 to recon, and the guy i bought it off refunded the cost to get it fixed. if you want to be sure, take it to a good clutch place to look at and confirm its condition before purchase

Right finally got onto the bank today as they told me the payment should only take 3-4 days to go through for the 33 bushes. I contact them today (after 7 days) to see what the hell is going on as Noltec havent received payment. They say oh theres been an error...-which they dont contact me to say, they just hang onto everyones money till i have to go into the bank to sort the damn thing out. It has been sorted today, and the money has gone through. Noltec tell me the items are being shipped as of today, so i should receive them overnight. Which will mean i get the 33 bushes either Saturday (if the courier ships on sat) or Monday at the latest. Sorry for holdups guys, its the banks farkups which was out of my hands. Freebaggin - i'll drop the bushes off to shaun for ya if you like, and ring you straight away to tell ya when hes got them so you can get your car in.

can someone verify what exactly needs to be done to fit the front 1/4 panels? I know the fronts bolt on, and require the gtr indicators. But - Do you need to run the gtr sideskirts, and wheel arch inners? im looking at doing this soon, and dont want to get into it then have to stop in order to track down the extra parts. It would be nice to have all parts needed on hand when the job is started...

the metal plates can also be shagged too in a twin(or triple) plate clutch. Mine were bent 40thou, which was easily machined...flywheel can be stuffed, and u may require a new bearing carier.

Guys do you know what these are? I assume not if asking if there is one for the front and rear (Wtf?), and asking if they suit gtst? They are a copy of a Nismo air splitter as shown in the fisrt photo, they go on the front edge of the gtr bonnet above the grille. They can be fitted to a gtst bonnet, if you chop your bonnet down to look like a GTR bonnet. Show me what u mean by rear...?

Then u need to shed 20 kg's from somewhere else in the car to offset the larger box then Roy Have u still got aircon, carpets, and a rear seat?

have a look down a couple of posts mate, i think u may require a homemade tool, or try buy one. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=116840 Its a matter of a threaded rod, 2 pieces of steel with a hole in the middle that is just big enough to fit the threaded rod through and a couple of nutts. As you do up the nuts, it should press the bush in... Im trying to find the right tool, if i do i'll see about loaning it out to a few people as well to make things easy

cool. I had closed the 32 buy though, but seeing as im still waiting for all payments to come in, i can still accept orders for now. Guys who are waiting (and waiting) for the 33 items, there was some bs mix up frm the bank, where the money hadnt gone through, or something. Ive had to contact the bank and track ther payment etc so Noltec can send out the items. Noltec is getting pissed as i am, due to waiting for the damn banks...it should definitly be here this week!

@ $100 im in

http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopdisp...hing+R%26R+Kit+ Proper tool used to do the job id assume would work the same if you rigged something up at home which was similar would work just as good.

np

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/97924 Guys heres a s13 subframe with pics on how to do the installation Would anyone know if the freezer trick would work with the noltec ones? I think the bolt with 2 washers and pressing it in as you do the nuts up would work at least?

search, but everything bolted to the head sits 38mm taller. Everything below the head is identical to each other.

Ive been asked a few times now about how hard it is to drop the subfram on skylines in order to install these Noltec subframe mounts. Id like people here to add anything that may help others if they attempt to do this themselves (with help from mates etc...) Firstly u need a pit or the car up on stands (the rear has to be jacked up on the chassis, not part of the subframe as you are removing it) Then u need to disconnect the tailshaft. Undo the rear strut tops from the body. (On a GTR the lowers are a U bolt - so they would drop out when the subframe is lowered??) Then clamp the brake line, and hicas line and disconnect them. Now check out your cat back exhaust. If yous is a bolt on sytem, unbolt the rear muffler and your away. If yours is a welded system, just remove from the cat to the rear. The rear should now be free from the driveline. The only thing left is the 4 bolts going through the actual subframe bushes holding the subframe to the car. Place a jack under either side of the subframe and remove the 4 bolts. I suggest u get hold of an air compressor, as these may be stiff bolts, or may require soaking in Rost off (a silicone creeping spray that works its way into the thread to loosen the bolts) Once the bolts are out, then have someone on the other jack and together lower the subframe down. If you havent removed the wheels, just roll the whole frame back and away from the car Its out now have a break... Now u need to get the bushes out using either of the 2 methods. First is to use an oxy torch to blow/burn out the bushes. This is extremely smelly, as u will have clouds of black smoke pouring out, so not recommended. Second method is to go down the hardware store and buy a hole saw slightly smaller than the bush. Use it to cut down the hole the bush is in and it should remove most of the bush. There is then a collar that is normally on the outer of the bush (i havent seen the std bushes, so this may or may not be in the subframe, have a look before u install the new ones) See 1st diagram for pics of replacement bush with collar. If there is the collar in the frame, u need a hacksaw to remove it. Undo 1 end of the blade, push it through the hole, and redo the hacksaw up. Now cut the outer collar out, taking care not to cut the subframe going too far. Now grease the bush a little, and sit them in where they go (the right way up too) Then using a mallet bang them in. At this point you can install urethane pinapples to tune (angle) the subframe for traction as well. (see diagram) All that is left now is to re-install the subframe the way you took it out. Once it has been installed, you may need to bleed the brakes, and the powersteering (hicas). Please allow a weekend to do this, and have a mate on hand, and a ride organized to go to the hardware store (holesaw). Maybe to repco for brake/ps fluid also. I find a BBQ and alcohol will have many hands on deck if needed. Anyone that has done this, or can offer advice please do. Im sure it is the same for GTR and GTST (apart from lower shock mounts, and Attessa - someone help on this?) later i'll add pics, and get this moved to the tutorial section as well. Please add any comments or suggestions to help.

33 group buy has closed, but i will be doing another again after the 32 one has finished. Keep an eye out for the new thread

Can someone do a small write-up on whats required to fit the front 32GTR guards on a 32gtst? I know u need the guards (duh:p) and indicators, but what about the side skirts, and guard inners..do these need swapping as well?? Im looking atr doing this soon, just wondering if i need the extras... thanks.

well prices have come down slightly since i started researching what to buy etc... quick shortlist is: Case: TT Tsunami Dream PSU: Antec Truepower 550w (or similar for sli) Mouse: Logitech G5 KB: Wolfclaw Monitor: Samsung 204B 20.1" LCD Mainboard: Asus A8N32 SLI DELUXE Chip: AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ GPU: XFX 256Mb 7900GT (550MHz or more) HDD: Seagate Barracude 7200rpm SATAII - 250gig RAM: OCZ PC3200 Platinum 2Gb Kit (2x1024MB) DDR400 sticking with the 3800+ for now as im planing on overclocking it I can always upgrade later.... Just getting all the parts together now, and will be assembling soon....