Cubes

Happy b'day Andy! Buy those new turbo's for your B'day yet?

Al, The stock rb30 bottom ends are like any other rb bottom end.. Rev it hard 7.5k+ and you will eventually have oil pump problems. Darren, Sky30 and a few others are pushing well over 300rwkw on stock bottom ends. Darren's was making 470rwkw on a stock bottom end + hypereutectic pistons and ran a 9sec 1/4 before an alt failure resulting in a lean out breaking pistons. Sky30's is still pushing 370rwkw on his 300,000km' old RB30. So in short.. No they are not prone to blowing compared to the rb25. If anything its the opposite due to their more boost and pump friendly static comp ratio and better rod:stroke ratio. They don't need as many rev's to make the same power + the better rod:stroke ratio which is good for rod sideloading; so stock vs stock the rb30 bottom end will always hold more power reliably. As with any RB (apart from r33 s2 and r34) if you want to rev it hard you will need to sort out its oil pump drive.

Dale... GT30 IW from Slide $1859 with actuator delivered.

I'm going to attempt to reuse my cometic.. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=105093 and from 6boost... http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showpost.php...mp;postcount=22 So it appears we must be very carefull removing that gasket as not to damage the coating.

The vlt blokes on ct.com appear to not have any issues with reusing mls headgaskets. Spray with gasket remover wipe off then spray with copper coat.

R32 GTST - 4.363:1 R32 GTS4 - 4.375:1 Some of the n/a R33's may run the 4.3's. Simply sway your lsd center in to the housing and bolt it all up with your axles etc.

I have datalogit logs of mine pinging and it doesn't affect water temp. IF water temp were to rise due to detonation it would have to be rattling extremely bad which would most definitely = blown ring lands within a very short period of time. Your tuner is a worry if that is really what he has stated.. Take it some where else before you loose a motor.

Definitely... 23psi in 4-5seconds not too bad. What rev's is the stall holding?

jampac... The boost curve comparison you have shown isn't comparable to a dyno boost curve as the dyno's ramp rate IS faster than 1:1 gear on the road lugging the weight of the car up to speed. This gives the larger turbo more time to spool, resulting in what appears to be a better faster spooling boost curve. + differential gearing + according to chris you are running the 52t 76.2mm comp wheel so again that too would improve spool. Too many variables to accurately compare the two. I think a lot of people 'worry' about the rb25det too much. RB30's have been pushing 400 and in one case I know of 470rwkw on stock rods. I really think the rb25det's only problem is its highish 9:1 comp ratio that causes problems when pushing high boost on pump fuel... Its either that or the rb25det's really are a weak motor; maybe the rb30's are tough as. Who knows. I doubt it. People just worry too much, don't have a good tuner and don't setup the motors static comp accordingly for the boost and fuel they intend to run. Years ago a Steve's RB25det (stock bottom end, baby 256cams, lowered static comp via headgasket) was running a HKS3037S (76.2mm 56t comp wheel) with a .87 a/r housing so near identical to the usual garrett gt3076r. He had all his boost in by ~4000rpm as you do also... BUT.. too many variables.. how is with the same motor one making all its boost near the same rpm as another with a much smaller rear a/r.... variables. We can't compare dyno sheets or take them all too seriously. On road performance is where it counts.

Either that or he was driving smart.. Sitting up some ones arse through a corner as they loose it can result in disaster.

Mine began to whine louder than the slight whine it always had just before it smashed 3rd gear. The whine wasn't loud enough to make me think this box is going to let go but it did have a high frequency cyclic type whine, sound effects.. Not just waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa but waaawaaawaaawaaawaaawaaawaaa. I wouldn't bother with good synthetic oil. Put it towards a new box. You could try your luck with castrol vmx80 + a tube of nulon g70 but I doubt it will help all that much.

Tried greasing up the slides?

An R200 is an R200. Plenty strong apart from the open wheeling vlsd's once you start to push some decent power through them. Crown and pinion from an r32 gtst diff, have it setup with your housing and center for ~$200. ---- Regarding cars that are quick...... The only car that has made me think wow... was cruising along side Jays 450rwkw Cressida. It sounds awesome and looks the business as it accelerates off. Under 400-350rwkw just doesn't seem to look like its going all that quick. I can't comment on darrens 470rwkw rb30 as I haven't seen it in action.

Weight it is.... Mafia.. If you want to improve acceleration and remove some lag drop a set of 4.3 diff gears in your r33. Its a noticable improvement over the 4.11 and 4.08's. I've recently went from 4.08 back to 4.3's as I was bitterly dissapointed. All though first gear was a little more usable second+ sucked in comparison. I 'assumed' the slightly longer gearing would provide a little more load for the turbo resulting in earlier boost and mask the longer gearing. Definitely not so infact nothing of the like. The longer gearing made the car feel laggy as it spent more time in the off boost rev range trying to accelerate in to the 'boost zone' lol 4.3's FTW. Definitely recommended. Those with gtr's look at a set of gts4 4.375:1 diff ratio, the r32 gts4 gearbox also runs slightly shorter ratio's in the first couple of gears and by model/part number the same gtr gearbox just different ratio = same strength. Quite freaked out how much the lower ratio reduces the lag feel.

Bunch of girls.. lag lag lag. Feel for the rb20det owners don't start singing until 4500-5000rpm to push a measily 250+rwkw. :S RB30 POWA.. gt35r = ~3500rpm and still more power everywhere than a rb25 running its stock rb25 turbo all tuned @ 200rwkw.

For myself... PowerFC - Cheap, Knock display, and such awesome drivability/idle/cold start/warm start, cheap as chips to tune, good fuel economy. Knock display is extremely valuable. Now that its not widely available.... I would still consider modifying an rb26 pfc to suit an R32 gtst or if i had a 33 I'd still adapt the rb26 pfc and run a couple of jaycar rpm trigger kits to work the vct. All for the knock display + its $828 delivered

300rwkw in our gtst has a similiar power to weight as a gtr/gts4 pushing 340-350rwkw. Thats scary... for the gtst owners looking to step up to a gtr/gts4, especially when you consider gearbox breakages over 350-400rwkw. :S

Linksys, Billion & cisco (out of reach) modems for me. I prefer billion modems. Always have a quick look at http://cgi.internode.on.net/advisories/list.html?area=1 to notify of any issues. Most likely the telstra line that runs from the internodes hardware in the exchange to your modem/router. In the meanwhile if transfers web browsing and transfers are unstable throw yourself on a more reliable line profile (done via internodes web site and monitor when the modem resync's on its new more stable line profile) You should be fine with the high reliable profile, very high profile may be a little overkill. Failing that do the usual virus scan & spyware/malware scan. spyware/malware - lavasoft adware, spybot and the VERY usefull prevx1. If your familiar with services that are supposed to be running hijackthis is also a handy tool to use. I tend to use all three on problem computers.

A few things to try off the top of my head... Power off/on the modem -If sync/speed is still bad disconnect every phone in the house from the phone line and power off/on the modem again and check sync speed. --If it improves you know you have a dead line filter (not common but does happen). Isolate the dead line filter by connecting a single phone at a time and calling it with your mobile while watching for sync/speed drops and transfer interuptions. Are you on ADSL2? -Change your line profile to a 'reliable' profile to improve stability as they ncorporate interleaving which as a result increases ping so not so good for online gaming but its better than having poor stability. Changing the line profile to reliable profile works well on those wet days where water gets in to the lines causing a little cross talk that results in poor stability/reduced sync speeds. I've had to do this almost every winter Then wait for telstra to get out and fix the lines. In the last recent downpoor the phone line dropped out completely, unable to receive or make calls (no dial tone with lots of crackling and static) I called internode had them throw me on the very high reliability line profile and I connected at just under 1mbps. It took 3 days for telstra to sort out the problem. :S and ....... Call your ISP.

1. Ditch the Nankangs. I recently had a set of 245/40/18's Nankang NS2's on my R32; they gripped worse than a set of cheapo Federal 535 225/50/16's I have on stock rims. I was extremely dissapointed in the nankangs considering they are nankangs top tyre and gripped slightly worse than cheap 535 federals that were considerably narrower. Are you sure you haven't mixed up the front & rear? Wider on the front is silly and 'apparently' illegal. When I had my VS 5ltr 5speed I ran around with stockies on the rear for a little; that was until I was pulled over by a cop and was told its illegal to run narrower tyres on the rear than the front. :S Throw a set of Federal ss595's all round; Well priced tyres that offer excellent bang for buck. Wall-T-Wall tyres can do prices for sau members that other tyre shops can't match. Best price is obtained when you book the car in for a set of new tyres all round. They had a few issues with sau members grabbing quotes then going else where; then other tyre shops would ring them asking how the frig they can do such prices blah blah.

Castrol SAF-XA here. http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:Nhee3G...;cd=1&gl=au Used in V8 supercars so it must be good. lmao.

If its well balanced don't play with sway bars.

I can see a use for the first 2 + they are relatively cheap but the last 2, I really wouldn't bother. The Cusco sway bar may actually mess up the handling. R33's are prone to understeer more so than any of the other skylines (r32-r34), you'd be much better off leaving the sway bars stock and firming it up with a good set of springs and shocks. Shove a nice fat sway bar on the front and its going to understeer, throw a nice fat sway bar on the rear and its going to be rather tail happy/slippery on corner exit. What suspension are you running around with?

A larger turbo does make the exhaust louder and note slightly deeper more open sounding. Definitely makes the car sound not standard.

I've always rotated the box so that the starter lump clears the floorpan, line it up and it pops in. The motor has never tilted back far enough for it to clear. I find a jack underneath the rear of the gearbox tied up with rope to prevent it falling off and another under the front of the gearbox to help lift the box. Obviously depends if you have a mate helping or not.