r33cruiser

ebay stuff shud be fine man. had some recommended to me by my mechanic. works perfectly. there not a complex peice, and dont had any moving parts (apart from adj ones), and most are made from 304 steel or billet. ebay is fine man.

i just got my gt3540 done man. i used 3 braided lines with some 'special' snap on-off fittings....apparently.. and am still using a basic hose for the big oil drain on the bottom, although it is covered with a fireproof sleeve. for 3 fittings it cost me $425 from ENZED. they are a fair length...and that price included ALL fittings 500 sounds fair

had emu...turfed it for a PFC. and have never looked back

not to rub salt in old wounds...but i used to be this arrogant and naive. the powerfc is old...but this means it is tried and proven with heaps of tuners out there. i sold my emu because they are a piece of shit! no one tunes them and they are bloody hard to tune. and half the functions it has u simply dont need. speed cut eh? just cut the wire on the ecu.. launch control eh? propper pedal control or even a bee*r limiter will do better than the emu. DONT GET A EMU. it is new and lacks development atm. not enough of a customer base to justify investing in its use, so no one tunes them.

i have the 'common' fmic piping. it comes up where the washer bottle is. it cost me 80 bucks for a bit of pipe with a bend. that was it

PLEASE DONT GO A EMU DUDE THEY SUCK BALLZ. no one tunes them. it is VERY hard to tune, i was quoted that they needed 3 days to do the tune!!!!!. it bollocksed up my ecu. made error codes. then removed it and ran just stock ecu and it runs. so im going a power fc. good thing im getting my money back on the EMU. whoo lesson learnt. just because its new doesnt mean its good. BUT. have heard nothing but good news on the e11v2. i believe the ignition jet200 uses one.

a pfc + handcontroller for a s2 engine. i am not going to pay over $2k . pm or post up. im on the sunshine coast qld. 4556 i have recently been told that it doesnt matter whether its a s1 or s2. so any offers?

make me an offer. im not going to pay over 1800+ tho. however i may consider it so forget that -pfc+handcontroller for a s2 engine plz- contact me via pm, or post up. btw i live on the sunshine coast i have recently been told that it doesnt matter whether its a s1 or s2. so any offers?

google man.. basically there are 2 things u need to know (anyone else feel free to chime in i only know enough for my plans). 1st camshaft duration 2nd camshaft lift. duration depending on its size basically moves the power band further towards the redline. and lift is important, because the more lift=more air and fuel can get in...this is what gives people a lumpy idle,...hi lift for u. u can fit 256d, 8.50mm lift (i think off top of head) without ANY mod's they drop in. but after 8.5mm lift it is recommended to go better springs and a solid lifter conversion. also u may have to get the head regrinded=clearance issues.

amen man...amen. but most company's fuel is the same.. BECAUSE IT COMES FROM THE SAME FKING REFINERIES!!!!!!!! have a search and see where they originate. a report on tt (i know i know, not real big on 'facts' but i watched it) stated that most of the bigger fuel companies use fuel from the same refineries/distributors. so really its not worth going to 1 specific petrol company

after a few track days of sliding around corners and stuff i had the same problem. just refill the diff with more lsd oil. that sorted out my whine. my old oil was brown and sludgy. i think it was soo thick it was failing to lube the gears. it will cost u 20bucks., and if its not that...and he is sure its the diff, then its time to crack it open and get into the nitty gritty stuff.

possible vac leak. check check and recheck all the clamps... its happened to all of us.

why not drive there with the turbo and stock injectors, then install them at the shop in the driveway takes 20min? u still have all the stock sensors intact..so just miss daisey it there.

lol your welcome michelle

power and mods list plz edit.. any problems with heating or boiling problems due to the p/s being pretty much on the turbo??? even i had to move mine. so im guessing no probs?

cry me a river. roger had it comin he has been :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014:

if all goes to plan.. a extensively moddified rz aerotop supra. with of course the manual and 2jzgte conversion.. hardest bit atm is choosing either big single...or keeping it twin...im leaning towards twins.

i got a cusco or nismo brake stopper...cant remember. seriously improved braking performance. going from driving my car to a mates commodore u can feel the difference. the commo has a 'spongey' feel compared to my hard biting brake feel

problem solving time. ok. 1. possible bad fuel. but if so u shouldnt have gotten out of the bp driveway before stalling 2. blocked filter...possible. however the fuel pump has a filter sock that should filter out the larger debris.. so replace that. 3. might be a stretch...but check the fuses. especially the fuel pump fuse. u said it wasnt priming. so it is either broken...or has a broken circuit.. then run some injector cleaner thru

except for michelle of course

im sure he wanted the speed cut for 'track' work right?

thanks very much pear...would they be in yellow pages? any contact info? they the ones on ashmore rd or ingelston rd?

it sounds like the alternator is failing to charge the battery. flickering lights that pulsate brighter with hi revvs is a key sign. get a pro to look over it. odds are its the alternator or battery

use a whiteboard marker to color over the texta. then just wipe it off. used to work on whiteboards back in me school days.