iseekool

Though ROTAs a copies of other people's designs, I'd be under the assumption they are safer than the Chinese/Malaysian copies, especially since the ROTAs meet the JWL standard. Edit: they also manufacture for OEM too.. Just found that out.

Yep. You end up missing out on all the goodies the stock GTR has. Best to buy a GTR straight up or I'd start with a GTt as a base car. Apparenlty there isn't much difference performance wise between an RB25DET NEO and and RB26DETT. ...but if you pick up an RB26 you will need a different oil sump and trans. There is a thread somewhee on these forums where someon has done it. But too much work and cost IMHO.

You can use any coilpack designed for RB25DE NEO and RB25DET NEO. They are both the same. Just make sure you are purchasing for RB "Neo" engines.

It is Victoria. Shoot now. Ask later. On a serious note. OP you got what you deserved. If you weren't driving like a douchebag you wouldn't be in this predicament.

Are those wheels forged?

Check your brake booster, could be stuffed causing a vacum leak when braking - therefore stalling. Should NOT have had to adjust the throttle sensor IMHO - that's just masking the actual issue. Change mechanic quick smart - to be quite honest his troubleshooting methology seems bit dodge.

Looks like he deleted it... I'm guessing someone got onto him quickly

Unfortunately I spotted this idiot on Facebook (Victorian Plates). Ripping skids in his n/a R33. Stupid kids. It's people like this that give us a bad name. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=488278684598545

Unfortunately I spotted this idiot on Facebook (Victorian Plates). Ripping skids in his n/a R33. Stupid kids. It's people like this that give us a bad name. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=488278684598545

Stock looking, Silver R33 GTR Bourke Rd Camberwell around 10am today. Mature aged driver behind the wheel

The rear suspension is different between a GT and GTt/GTv. GT rear suspension design is just like an R33GTSt and 200sx S15 GTt rear suspension design is just like a GTR. I don't have a clue about the geometry of each though.

Unfortunately GTv is nowhere near 14k - Even for a straight and good condition one. An honest 12k tops with 80,000km to 100,000km range - anything higher IMHO is a rip off. Auto versions of n/a are actually cheaper by around 1K. I'd imagine most people wanting a GTv would be a P plater and most wouldn't want to screw around with getting a damaged one fixed. I'd also imagine most P platers wouldn't know the difference between a GT and GTv, all they would care is to ensure it is non-turbo. Good luck with the sale though. But going off from your description on the damage sounds like a write off

Thanks for the input guys.

Hi guys, Just wondering if anybody has tried ethernet over power, the type that runs ethernet over 240v power points around the home (I'm not talking about Power over Ethernet - PoE - just to clear any confusion ) as an alternative to WiFi. Reason being is I'm on a budget and cannot justify getting an elec or cabler out to install LAN points. I'm thinking to run WiFi only, but ethernet over power has caught my eye as an alternative for more intensive data transfers and gaming. I'm about to move into my place, regular sized single story, 3 bedroom house built in the 1970s - I'm going with the assumption the electrical wiring is still orignal (with the exception of the smart meter and central safety switch). My network setup is fairly basic. - Home theater PC in the lounge - Router/switch/Wifi AP in the hallway, which is roughly in the center of the house - Housemate is a web developer using a PC - Synology NAS to be placed in a cupboard or in the study - PC in my bedroom - Laptops/Tablets for roaming about the place Looking forward to hear about your opinions. Cheers

I go to the snow lots in my R34 (RWD). I do lots of snowboarding. I been caught in 2 separate blizzards with the roads icing over, pretty much slowed to 5~10km/h Trick is just drive slow. Gentle braking and gentle acceleration. Never used snow chains, but I do carry a set in the boot just in case the absolute need arises. - Before going up the mountain, make sure yout have a full tank of fuel. You may end up idling for long periods and running your air-con to keep the windows clear. The extra fuel also makes good ballast for RWD cars. - Battery and alternator in good condition as it maybe harder to start your engine in the cold, and you tend to use lots of electrical equipment eg. lights, demisters, air-con. - Fresh coolant/anti-freeze - All lights working - 2L bottle of tap water and a squeegee in your boot, in the event your windscreen/windows freeze over. With all this - She will be as sure footed as a mountain goat.

Last night spotted a black R32. Around 8PM on the northern ring road travelling between greensborough and dalton rd.

^ nice torque figure at 102km/h. I'd imagine easy overtaking at normal hwy/fwy speeds.

Put a varex rear muffler when you are around town and cruising on the HWY. RB doesn't sound that great when driving "normally" (under 3000rpm), sounds similar to an old Falcon. Sounds awesome when at higher revs though. But yeah +1 for stock

IMHO For constant high revs, I'd recommend an upgrade of oil and water pumps to N1 items as a start before even thinking about performance tuning. I'd also say an oil cooler will be of benefit. For such a light car under 1000kg, I'd keep the mods minor to start with. Headers, high flow cat and a K&N type high flow panel filter. Run full syn 10w30 engine oil. Don't run an exhaust bigger than 2.5" Stock RB (both na and turbo) engines sound great at high RPMs with the right exhaust. GReddy style manifold will be useless on such an application, as you don't have a turbo. Better wth sticking with stock manifold with the variable length intake manifold or go all the way to ITBs. From memory (somewhere on these forums) someone mentioned the RB20DE NEO/25DE NEO have smaller CC in the heads. Budget permitting, shave the head slightly to increase the compression, upgrade injectors from an RB25DE NEO and run an aftermarket ECU.

R34 25Gt (non-turbo, excluding GTv)

Off topic. But damn. I'm older than you and it costs that much to insure my R34 which is worth roughy 11k

Spotted a yellow R34 on canterbury road (surry hills) on thursday night around 7.30ish, pulled over by the police.

I *think* I see this car regularly on Doncaster road. Keep an eye out around the area.

Nope. Different design. From memory it will only fit an R34 GTt or GTv. R34 25GT is same as R33GTSt and possibly S chassis cars.

Anyone having any issues with the stock fuel system, while running United e10 100 long term eg. failing rubber components?