Piggaz

Same same.

Why can't you set the RPM limit through the ecu? Better yet, between your right foot and the tacho, you shouldn't need it. Waste of money.

It's a green, Mr A. Should be a little rocket when it's on and tuned. As it is ATM with the standard turbo wound up, it is very punchy!

How much power do you want? What size is your engine? Is it built? What is your threshold for "lag/late boost response" What if your driveline like? How much do you like a full wallet? Answer those and we will tell you.

How much power are you after to warrant this setup?

Pics? Runner diameter?

Had the S and R tunes on my own car. S tunes are fine for the street, not so much for the track. R tunes are very uncomfortable and definitely not designed for out roads. Changing spring rates will only get you so far, it's the valving which you need to change. As a comparison, I had made custom Bilstiens for my car with spring rates of 14 F and 9 R. Around town they ride just as soft as stock suspension, believe it or not. There is a lot more to it than just a cheap and easy spring change.

cobrAA, PM sent.

What was the rest of the setup?

^^ got a graph?

*rolls eyes* lol

^^ I know that ya bonehead! lol

But half of it is flying out of the vent to atmo gate?

http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Ptriffitt/media/E42612E0-0E51-4A33-99C7-841C9B0DF39B-27312-00000BD0E9B48A81_zps3606a788.mp4.htmlI don't have the car at home ATM but these are on E85. I specifically asked for the idle to be calm as we could get it. If I wanted it grumpy then it's just a few taps on the keyboard. On petrol it's grumpy as hell!

You're talking shout two tenths of nothing but I Spose every little but helps. How high are you revving it the engine? Having -5's hanging off the side of it, it won't be 10,000 rpm do stay standard size.

Pull some timing and fuel at idle. There is your lump/grump. I'll upload one tomorrow when I get home if I still have it on my photobucket.

No need for cams that big.

It's not power related, it's HOW it drives and pulls out of corners.Think of two big bear claws ripping at the road I front instead of some shitty open diff attempting to do something.

Exchange rate is poo poo.

Yeah, the Unigroup cams. You also use the standard buckets, you will need to relieve the head for the lobe and you will need a decent valve spring. Camtech do a spring and Titanium retainer package which is very reasonably priced and will do the job. The cams are a little pricey BUT you don't have the expense of buying different buckets like you would if you were to run say a Tomei Procam, so it pretty much works out same same. I do own a 33 GTR. Fuel system is 2000 cc Injectors, 2 x 044 feed, one 044 lift, 5 litre surge tank. As for the Poncam's, I believe the 250 "Type R" would be a better cam than the 260. Same lift, less overlap. PM XKALABA about his thoughts of the 250 vs 260. He ripped his 260's out.

I'm running the 260 versions on a 2.8, -5's and E85. The lift is 10.85 mm with a much more aggressive ramp rate than a typical "jap cam".

By the time it was landed, roughly $1,300. I got bummed by customs . Either way, couldn't care. If I ever bought a standard GTR again, first mods would be diffs.

True, but you can make as much or more grunt with a much better curve, although without the sexy noise.

Palmside or Tim from SVS in the UK. Tim is a very nice bloke to deal with.

Seeing that E85 is blended with 91 at the bowser, would they be blending that with "not their best batch" also?