Piggaz

I got pulled up for filling a plastic Jerry in the back of ute. Two chances filling up a 44 in an SUV.

All the factory stuff got ripped out. The EFR has one on the compressor housing. I bought the Turbosmart kompact EFR version. Directs the pressurised air back at the comp wheel. Clean, neat, simple. It's not shown in those photos because Hypertune pulled it off to weld the 90 on the comp housing.

20 litre jerry cans might be a better option. Put the drum in the garage and fill that up. Then you can stand the jerries up and tie them in. No chance of leaks.

They will be posted ASAP. Painful experience this is!

Finally, an update. Car was dropped off at Hypertune on Friday for the cooler mount up, turbo to plenum piping and a few other bits and bobs. Sneak peak at what they do to guide the air into the runners. Core measures 680 x 325 x 100. Cooler mounted up. I'll have a few more photo's on pick up.

They did in 2012 to a PTE (forget the size...)

Either would be done on s build anyway, 2.6,2.7,2.8,2.9,3.0,3,2,3.4,3.5. If you don't do it while it's apart, you fail.

Sneaky Pete, you'd do that anyway. So those costs don't matter.

Tomei stroker $5,800 Tomei oil pump $1,500 Racepace Motorsport sump $1,500 Machining and assembly $3000 Head $10,000 Custom cams $1,200 ATI balancer $1,000 Nissan gasket kit $400 Water pump $200 Nismo 0.9 mm head gasket $400 Thats about it off the top of my head.

What width and offset?

It won't cost 40 k to stroke it.

what 33GTRV said.

I can confirm. Once warm it was carrying on like my Nismo 1.5 way.

Edit Johnny!

Buy what comes out of the tank. No one else has any issues. Yes it may vary but that's the whole idea of a sensor. No need to make a mountain out of a molehill.

They have the M109 for the R35's. Cut the core a different size.

If you have the standard comp ratio, how does a built 2.6 drive any different to a stocker? A bit of a tickle on the head and a set of bump stock can be done to a stock bottom end?How does a set of pistons and some rods allow the engine to make more low end twist? Plenty of people making over and above 400 kW with the OEM engine. Simon from WA, Reaper here in NSW (470 kW using a 8374). If they "rebuilt it" with some Pistons and rods, how or why would the power delivery change? (Barring compression ratio increases) If the engine is still healthy, leave it alone. Rebuilding a 2.6 is like buying a box of rotten bananas. It's a little cheaper but they are garbage. 2.6 = stock engine or healthy wrecker, built engine = stroker. Costs not much more.

It baffles me why ARC don't make the M109 anymore for the 32-34 GTR's.

Exactly as Pete said. Machining Labour to put in and out Head freshen up Cams Bearings Clutch Injectors And the list goes on. $2-3 k is a drop in the ocean when you're talking about what you're about to do. That dofference falls IF you need a new crank or have to "prepare" your current one.

You're crazy not to stroke it then. It's such a little amount more. All the costs are the same bar a little more for a crank. you're already buying pistons and rods.

Are you going to rebuild the engine?

This was a 400 kW car though. Wasn't an issue mid 300's though. But yeah, keep it in mind. They were genuine filters too!

Take the main filter out and see if they have added something to hold the filter in place. A mate had one of them and it would keep sucking the filter in.

Unopened 2.6 went 470 kWBuilt 2.6 went 490 kW. 600 whp isn't an issue.