Piggaz

Nice effort, head. Is that 3rd or 4th gear runs? Damn it Jezzebelle and you're speed dyno sheets .

Everything is good in hindsight, Pete. Atleast it's all back together now and not having the coolant fairies come at night!Now its suspension time. If your shocks are stock (which they are) your 18 year old bushes would be flogged also. That "floating" under power is very unnerving. Hold the wheel straight and it's slowly drifting left and right on the road! Lol! - All bushes replaced - Rear sub frame "pineapples" or alloy collars. (I remember doing this like 7 years ago and it took one corner to realise what difference it made) - A set of shocks. Maybe something like MCA "comforts". Don't be tempted by that "BC" garbage. Be better off putting train track sleepers in there. - A decent alignment.

Nah mate. The 2.8 is staying put. If it ever dies I'll look at something bigger. I just want it back on the road. Slowly chipping away.

Just got home after driving this thing. Wow. The idle sounds like a stock RB26 with a cat back. Smooth and quiet without any lump lump shenanigans going on. From cold start, the V cam wont do it's spinny cam tricks until oil temp is up and it's most defiantly noticeable. Doodling around there is more than enough grunt. 1st, 3rd, 6th would be a walk in the park. Getting it up it a bit, anything over 3400 RPM and its roaring up the street. Being a 6 speed you could get away with changing at 5500 RPM and it would fall right back into its stride. The lag between gears is non existent. I think I took it to 7500 RPM once. Not needed but the powerband width is something I haven't experience in a GTR, not even close. As a street/hillclimb car, the package is just brutal. If you're not happy wiith that Pete, you'll need to buy a tractor. Time to work on the suspension mate. You need to ditch those original shocks from 1999!

Working turbos are paid for and sent.

You can get the "Pro" kit which has a 264 @ 10.0 mm but the price jumps up by another 50% or so. It comes with an ECU (which you cant option out) that you pretty much throw in the bin.

Cheap manifolds!

Crappy HKS style split dumps ain't helping, nor is the 3 inch small point in the exhaust.

Coppermix FTW. Can't kill the bloody thing and feels fantastic to drive. THE clutch to use on a street GTR.

You've changed man. Lol.Although, two gates, one turbo.

Bump for the exhaust.

Pete, the dominator 1800 will supply what you need with ease and is is almost silent. Needs to be external though.

Why not a 6466 or 6870?

Run a pre larger filter of a 40 micron and a smaller post pump one of 10 or so?

Who in their right mind would pay that for a second hand cooler.

Both items are located in Georges Hall, Sydney. Postage will be paid for by buyer. Contact me via PM Both items came out of my R33 GTR Item: Link G4 Plug in. Price: $100 Condition: It doesn't work but it can be fixed. I did send it back to Link in NZ to be looked over. This is what they said; Hello, We recently received two faulty Link ECU's in for servicing from you guys. The ECU with the trigger fault (serial# 11277) had a bad solder joint causing the issue. This has been repaired and the ECU is under warranty so there is no cost to you. The other ECU (serial# 11869) with the burnt PCB has been deemed non-repairable and will need to be replaced. A number of vias have been destroyed due to the extent of the burning meaning a number of wire links would need to be run from the top to the bottom if it was to be repaired. This would also effect the long term reliability of the unit. A number of other components have also been damaged which have resulted in all of the ignition outputs failing. Due to the wide extent of the damage it is hard to tell what the cause was, generally with the amount of current that has gone through and the damage to the 14V circuit it would point to the power supply polarity having been reversed. Since there is also such considerable damage to the ignition circuit (particularly ignition #2) it would be worth double checking your ignition setup to ensure this is not what has caused the surge. I have had a chat with the head of my team about replacing the PCB at a discounted rate and we can offer 50% off a new board. This will cost $700 (we can reload the existing base map on it all ready to go) plus $24 for return postage of this ECU (we will absorb half the return postage cost to cover the warranty ECU). Please let me know if you would like to go ahead with the new topboard (invoice attached to this email for this option) and I will get it ready to go back to you. Item: Link 7 bar external MAP sensor Price: $150 Condition: Perfect. Used for approximately 5000 kms. Only removed as the new ECU had a big enough onboard sensor.

All parts are located in Padstow, Sydney. Shipping will be paid by the buyer. Contact me via PM. Item: -5 turbo's with modified actuators by Racepace Motorsport. Currently set at 19 psi. Turbine housings have been opened up to match the gasket. Comes with oil drains also. Price: $1200 Condition: Great. 10,000 kms worth of use. Item: -5 turbo's. Both are blown so will suit a GTX upgrade. Price: $500 Condition: Dead. Needs rebuild. Item: Front pipe to suit RB30/26. Twin 3 inch into single 4 inch Price: $300 Condition: Fine Item: SMB rear muffler "diff back". Single 4 inch into twin 3 inch tips. Price: $350 Condition: Fine. Item: Modified Twin Turbo Pipe Price: $150 Condition: Fine. It has had the "twin turbo" raised bit ground down. It came off an RB30. Item: HKS AFM delete pipes Price: $200 Condition: Fine. Painted black. A few scratches. Item: Modified intake pipes. This has had the narrow point removed. Price: $100 Condition: Fine. Item: HPI RB26 dump pipes (32/33) Price: $500 Condition: Fine

My fronts. 6 pot, 365 front, 4 pot 350 rear.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-1#entry7683493 Knock yourself out.

Quaife for the front. Sell your daughter for that shit!

The 71.1 mm RS wheel is rated at 44 lb/min each.The 63 mm GTX wheel is rated at pretty much the same. Gtx wheel is lighter, still has to get out of that peanut, small ass end. Cold side too big, hot side too small. Go back through the gtx thread and Simon Haughton who did this exact combo regretted it because of heat issues. A shiney billet wheel on the cold side doesn't fix the nugget rear ass end. Can get in, can't get out, why bring more air in. It's farken stupid. Trying to empty a bath with the plug pulled...but have a fire hose filling it up!

Put an EFR 8374 on it. You'll win!

You have just failed at GTR ownership! Front difffff. Buy it, install it, love it and kick yourself why you didn't do it 6 years ago!

Going from 63's to 67's. Having RS's and (I admit) it wasn't the optimal setup, they were woeful. However, I haven't come across someone that went from RS's back to the "lesser" -5's or 2530's and wasn't happier with them, regardless of engine size! They're mismatched. Cubes hides the shitness of these things! You DO NOT WANT these on a 2.6. 2.8 they still suck, 3.0 just hides the shitness of them. No need to consider Jurassic park turbos in today's age.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349467-5s-vs-rss-on-a-larger-then-stock-motor/?fromsearch=1 This thread may be of some interest.