Roy

I am off OS on the 11th and wont be back for a while, so will accept $2400 for the front Greddy brakes if the sale can be completed before Tuesday 5th August. Will also accept $1200 for the wheels if payment made by Tuesday 5th August

Ok, thought that may be the case, you have to either grind the caliper a little or simply space it further out then the 30mm radius of the adaptor. Sorry, i know this might be the viable option for you....but it isnt for me. Grinding calipers, machining expensive to the rest of us rotors, and then go talk to DBA about your suggestion to duct brakes. Well... I detailed to DBA the ducting i ran and they flat out said that was the reason the rotor cracked. Inside of the rotor being cooled more the outer face and i SHOULD NOT DUCT AIR to the rotors. So off with the ducting, even though i thought it was a pipss poor escuse for failing and give another set a go and they soon crack as well, at the Dutton Rally of all places. And that was with about 4,000kms of spirited driving, progressively harder and harder and bedding brakes to make sure that the rotors were nicely cycled. Brand loyalty? I am loyal to good products or at least products that are supported well. The rotors on my car are the ones i replaced at the Dutton Rally and effectively giving them to the purchaser of my F40s as whilst they are near new, i simply dont have any faith in them and dont have the heart to charge good money for them. So i did casually observe what the professionals do. Cruising around as a scrutineer and a pit moneky at State Rounds i do observe what those smarter then me are doing. Simple fact is DBA 4000 rotors are crap and should not be used at the track if you have any desire for reliable service. The DBA 5000 are another story, far more expensive and i often wonder if the only difference is in the slot deisgn, not metallurgy or heat treatment ? So suggesting brand loyalty to me re DBA makes me angry Also the fact that i am Joe Blow off the street so they dont give a stuff about me being happy or otherwise. Your involvement in motorpsort circles may afford you slightly different treatment. They sure were not willing to help out with discounted rotors after the failing of my two sets in quick succession, or even a revised theory when the second set without ducting failed. They then said that my perfect condition calipers were to blame for dragging pistons/pads. I pointed out that they were recently reconditioned and when changing pads could be see to easily move freely. They then said that it was the fact that i had offset caliper mounts and they were the problem, despite the fact that i had years of service from my older desigg DBA 4000 rotors. LOL, i dont feel any better despite my above purge Looking at the BSM cars they are all running AP setups with rotors around the 343-355mm mark. I assume they had good reason to upgrade from teh Nissan Brembo GTR caliper and 324mm rotor thati once read was run on the Production Car?!?!?! I agree that the 324mm adaptor setup is a good budget upgrade, i have been happy with mine. Stopping distances are one thing, fade resistance is another, and pedal feel another again. I just want a setup that is more consistant with better feel and has a little more fade resistance. LOL, most of all i want to run a rotor that i am comfortable will see me through a day of track work

http://f1stream.co.nr/ Kimi has normal engine cover, Massa with teh shark cover

It has less to do with the gate then something else wrong somewhere. I know of an RB20 happily running a GT-RS, here is a few sheets of it dyno alongside my car As you can see it has no problem holding boost (lower curve GT-RS, upper curve my TD06) If anything you can see its boost is creeping up And on a Mainline Dyno it made 208rwkws...which always reads lower then an Dyno Dynamics. For example on a Dyno Dynamics my car makes 260rwkws, on the Mainline Dyno it makes 244rwks, so this particular GT-RS is probably making around 225rwkws with a conservative tune There is something else wrong in there somehwere, it could be as simple as the ignition isnt right

Honda ripping RBR as well this race!

Was chasing tyres this week and found a set of Dunlops to run...only to find my contract in India has me in a ditch somewhere never to be seen or heard of again. Might try and make the Maserati day a few weeks earlier

Streaming of Practice just started,

Dont do it. You have to get the car engineered as a two seater, which means removing back seats, remving rear seat belts then going to Vic Roads and gettign your papers changed. This means from that day onwards you cannot legally carry passengers in the back seat or ever put the back seat back in. If you want to get the papers changed back to saying its a 4 seater then you need to once again get the car engineered. This means not only the seat and belts come under scrutiny , but the whole car and any other mods you have. They are also a pain in the ass to use on the street, they limit movement and you cant even change the radio station or air con settings when the harness is on Best bet is to keep your std seat belts and just use them. Using harnesses on the street is a bit silly, and if you must then use it in conjunctin with std seat belt as the places you have available to secure the harness means its more likely to injure you in an accident then help you. SO, just be careful and do your homework thoroughly

So, what are the plans for the GTSt Ben? If you ever sell that car i want it!

I am not so concerned about the difference in pad to rotor, its the caliper to rotor. The caliper is designed for a rotor of 140mm radius, so using them on a 324mm rotor with a radius of 162mm means that the caliper offset is not simply 22mm. If you measure up the adaptor its not simply an offet 22mm adaptor, going to 340 is only going to mean the caliper rides higher up on the rotor as the calipers internal radius has to be compensated. I would be surprised if you measured up your adaptor that it has 30mm offset holes?

But Wakefield is a play ground. Front straight you are stopping from about 180-190km/h to about 120-130km/h...then on the back straight there is a similar stop but probably back to 70km/h. It is a short track so there isnt much time between those stops so in turn time for brakes to cool. Calder is about the same distance and look at its stops! Ditto Sandown which isnt too much longer and look at those stops. These places are much harder on brakes. Also, you have just posted that we cant get the DBA stuff for the same prices as you, we dont know how to machine down the rotors to suit the required diameter and offset...so i stand by the fact that the the value isnt there when the Aussie dollar is doing so well. Also, you mentioned you sold your near new DBA4000s, what did you pay for them and what did you sell them for. If you are going to claim the dollars you got for selling them, then you need to consider the original spend on buying them for the one track day You will find you lost money, so cant claim it agaisnt the cost of the other gear because you sold it I tend to agree that the spacer and 324mm setup is a good setup. But again, DBA charge the earth for replacement rotors, charge the earth for the original rotors, and having now sampled the F40s i dont want to go back to the comparitively woeful pedal feel of the std caliper, especially since i dont have ABS and like you state, the setup has no problem lockign brakes well into a session. For me that is the major problem, the temps everything is running at and the loads i am putting through them, well everything gets that little bit vague which means i am lockign brakes, which at places like the front and back straights at Calder, and frotn staright at Sandown, well is doing horrible things to my tyres. Hell the brakes will pay for themselves as they will stop me flat spotting my tyres, thats assuming they feel as good as the F40s did on my car

Ok Gary, i am going to bite as i am not convinced Brake line material cost $80, plus $20 for the fittings There is no way i would suggest people make their own brake lines, off the shelf brake lines, ADR approved or not are not this cheap. DBA 5000 series rotors were $680 Again, i once got a hand job from a hot model for free. I didnt know she was a hooker, and if i asked for seconds would not be able to get the same deal second time around. DBA5000 rotor setups sell for more then that, unless for some strange reason the DBA5000 for HSV/FPVs are cheaper then GTR?!?!?! There is another glitch which i will get to I sold the 280 mm DBA 4000 series rotors for $225 and the Bendix Ultimate pads for $50 Thats a pot of gold that you had the DBA to sell and that they were in good health, and not the crappy std gear, or worn cracked like is often the case when ppl decide to upgrade. Caliper adaptors were $200 on an SAU Group Buy They were the 280 to 324mm adaptors, so you are using them with the GTR caliper i assume so that its 296+44mm = 340mm? Does the curvature work ok or do you have to machine down the DBA5000 rotor? Also, which 340mm rotor are you using. The HSV are 343 from memory and the FPV are typically 355 and close to the offset required for the Skyline. The HSV are way out which means you are using custom hats with the rotors, or your group buy adaptor has been modified to correctly offset the caliper to rotor/hub. And again assuming its the 343mm HSV rotor you woudl have had to get it machined down to 340, as i assume you havent machined down the 355mm rotor to 340mm rotor. LOL, so not trying to be argumentative, but you are right, i spend way too much time rackign my brain over brakes and not convinced the 169+80+20+680-225-50+200 = $874 is a real world figure. Lastly, i woudl love to see pictures of the setup on the car and what wheels you use. The std caliper doesnt saddle the rotor all that well, and they would have to be a pretty racey wheel to clear that diameter rotor with the std caliper. And curious to know what rotor / pad coverage is like?!?! LOL, i want to be convinced otherwise, but having played with Performance Friction 340x32mm rotors a while ago i decided not to go ahead with it as the dollars i could do it for meant an off the shelf setup was more attractive.

If he was on a 2 or 3yr deal then i understand that they would keep him. But the fact he was only a one year deal, well he hasnt done a terribly good job. Ideally you would want to be orchestrating 1-2s as McLaren has obviously had the pace to do so at several races this year. STR and Berger are obviously keeping their options open for next year hoping that Alonso and a move to Honda or BMW could leave an experienced and talented guy on the market. It would have been worthwhile waiting and seeing what happens with Alonso, Kubica, Heidfeld and Button. All would be capable of doing a better job in my opinion

Well in shitty news of the week we have Heikki confirmed at McLaren next season. I like Heikki and he seems to have some talent, but he is consistantly nowhere compared to his team mate and is being blown away by the Ferraris and questionable against the BMWs. Was really hoping that a more ambitious driver woudl get the nod for next year, someone liek Rosberg that wouldnt take getting beaten by Lewis so well and try, try, try. Heikki seems content to be getting his bum handed to him race after race. The old "first guy you have to beat is your team mate" makes for some entertainment as a spectator

Yeh, the 324mm will fit under majority of 17" wheels, I know i have never had a set of wheels that have clashed with my 324mm setup, and i have probably had 8-10 set of wheels on the car. Biggest problem i have had is going to an aftermaket caliper with 330-343mm rotors which is when it becomes dependant on wheel types and quality, along with offsets etc.

Can you PM me your email address? I am interested in some good pictures of the interior and cage, material cage was constructed from, how it goes through the dash, side intrustion etc etc Also, was the car imported for rego, or strictly race only? LOL will give you a call based on the cage being what i need. Also things like year model, ABS, functioning air con, condition of body/paint, dash, seats etc, dents/rust etc

Interesting to read they say the car isnt profitable. You would have to say that is a bit stupid of Nissan since the demand for the car is so high that better pricing would not have hurt sales, only made the run of cars more profitable

So already bought one? I hope you arent going to put a TD04 on it, i will walk quicker then it RX7s are cheap in Japan, even with a boat load of mods on them

I think your money would be better spent on good pads, and when the 280mm rotor screams enoough then consider changing to another Skyline brake setup then, but i think you will find that on the street you wont notice any difference at all. A At the track, if you go then i think again you will be hard pressed to tell the difference between the setups if you are running the same pads. But no doubt it is a good upgrade but maybe not so budget by the time you buy the GTR calipers, buy new rotors, and throw your pads in there it is probably a $1000 upgrade,

The only hitch is i want silver calipers But can live with black

Before changing hardware i would be talking to your tuner. Having tuned it he should have a feel for why it isnt performing as expected. It coul dbe the tune, it could be the fact he is scared of pushing any more because of the perceived condition of the engine...it could be he simply lacks the talent to tune the thing...Or it could be something mechanical

LOL, do it Snowie! But i cant see you being happy being one of the also rans in a rwd car. And getting all excited about a top 10 finish at the circuit...provided you have banked enough sleep the night before

I am sitting at home crook, yet i think i am well enough to walk to the newsagency so that i can get a Powerball ticket. I can see it now, if things go my way i will just sit out the back of your joint buying your discarded cars....9sec track R32, uber cool R33

So many people get carried away with the pushrod argument. Personally i view it the same way as i view Porsches. Sure, plenty have proven mid engine is better, but Porsche has made the rear engined concept work. Chev have tried quad cam 32 valve 350 Chevs etc and they worked well, but were more expensive, wider and harder to package and the LT1 was easily able to be tuned to keep with the lod LT5. So pushrods may not be the latest and greatest, but Chev have put the work into the head design to ensure they pack quite a punch. I would love to think i could put a VH45 into a R32 as i would love a V8 in my R32. But no way i would want to be payign for 4 cams come upgrade time, custom pistons come time i want a tad more compression, porting an 32valve head that most people have never seen let alone touched. Alloy Chev in a R32 is only beaten by a Judd powered R32 Time will tell, lets see how much coin i earn whilst working in 3rd world countries

LOL, if anyone needs a co-driver then i am your man if you like a bloke that likes the good things in life. I love Duttons, but have to say paying for all the prep work and wear and tear means that for now i would much rather be a co-driver then driver/owner.