KiwiRS4T

I paid about $80 for a new one from Natrad about 5 years ago (for a previous Stagea). Will price one up in the next few days.

There is a forum on the Link Site: http://www.linkecu.com/forums/engine-tuning

Coil packs shouldn't click - is it the sound of the spark shorting to the head? Remove the coil cover and observe it in the dark or look on the coil pack for signs that it has been shorting out.

Not so - get another tuner.

In my S1 Stagea its behind the drivers side kick panel : a very small black plug taped to another loom with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket.

They won't have a matching part - they will make up a suitable hose.

Havge you got an R33 or R32? R32 a simple on off switch is fine but R33 is a little more complicated.

Are you planning to copy some-one elses settings? Have you got a wideband afr meter and a decent knock detector and exhaust temp gauge?

I understand 10mm but haven't done it myself. You also have to relieve the tops of those holes and the other drains.

Try it with your existing MC. If the pedal goes to the floor (or near to it) you need a bigger one... otherwise don't bother you will just be increasing the effort required to push the pedal for no gain.

Do you have severely lowered suspension? How many km do your cvs last?

Yes the Nismo stuff although also made by Motul is a higher spec. In NZ Motul is available through a number of parts shops and the Nismo version is also available from Nissan dealers. This appears to be the Aussie distributor - the website lists stockists: http://www.linkauto.com.au/index_page.html

Over here 245 would be the legal minimum for 9.5 rims. 265 or 275 would be much better.

What do you mean excessive amounts? - You can get 1 litre bottles: http://www.motul.com/nz/en/products/153?f%5Bapplication%5D=141&f%5Brange%5D=25 here is the Motul version: http://www.motul.com/nz/en/products/108?f%5Bapplication%5D=141&f%5Brange%5D=25

Not an expert on this but it would seem according to the write up that the purple piece is part of the AAC valve<br /><br />http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

I have been using Agip 5W 40 fully synthetic on road and track with good results: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/oil-additives/auction-593961713.htm

Or bent rim - check runout on a wheel balancer.

I'm using a Greddy copy with the stock throttle body. Which ever you use I would recommend using top mount rail and ID 1000 or ID 2000 injectors, Either will idle fine. What are you using for an ECU? If you go Link/Vipec you won't need a MAF

If you still have the stock cams and vct get an adjustable cam gear for the exhaust and play around with that on the dyno.

Good work!

What is your power goal? Just use the stock manifold up to about 300kw

Spewing out oil seems to happen only at the track during long periods at WOT . My RB25 had this problem and so did my RB30. My RB30 is a rings and bearings only build (everything else apart from the rod bolts is stock) and it spewed oil. I got a leak-down test which came out at 5% - 8% which is ok. I have an N1 pump! I fixed the oil problem by fitting 2 x 1.0mm restrictors and two sump vents on the inlet side of the engine going to a catch can - one to the top and the other to the bottom so the oil can drain back. This has fixed my oil spewing problems.I used to think that the drains at the back of the head were a waste of time but now I think that if anything they aggravate the problem by helping to blow oil out of the cam cover breathers. For others with RB26s, mines baffles have helped. You say your leakdown test was bad - what were the numbers? I would delete the rear head "drain" from your new build.

Put the bov just past the turbo and vent it into the turbo intake.

Just need one GTR bov on RB25 - bolts straight up but outlet is bigger so you have to adapt it to suit.

I just got an R33 Skyline one for $30