KiwiRS4T

Soak them in WD40 CRC or similar. Put a nut on the end so it is flush and give it a few smart whacks with a hammer (if you can get a decent swing). Most people seem to end up with a few that have to be got out the hard way!! (Heat is for the head, not the studs).

What hi-flow were you using? My GCG highflow in conjunction with the Jaycar IEBC gave me 10psi by 2500 rev/min and 15psi about 3500.

Port and polish is necessary for a n/a engine or for the very top hp engine - save your money for the turbo and just turn up the boost.

Should be doable at 14psi with a good tune!

It will have cost me about $15k to get another 150kw for my S1 Stagea. Mines will do the same for your GTR for a mere $55K if you send them your engine !

Have a look at www.nistune.com and also search "Nistune" on this and the Skyline sections. In brief it is a tunable chip that sits in your stock ecu. For under $400 it is unbeatable. You could also fit a PFC, Link, Motec etc etc but the Nistune is by far the best value for money. Then find a really good tuner (after you have fitted any planned mods) and spend whatever it takes to get a really top tune!

I used to have an Apexi SAFC and an SITC (to control timing) and they worked reasonably well but I would recommend a Nistune chip which will give you much better tuning ability for about the same money. Nistune do not make a chip for the R33 so you will have to use an R32 ecu or other and chip that. Do some searching - there have been a few threads on this topic.

A highflowed Rb20 turbo wil make over 200kw easy. The advantage - effectively a brand new turbo, looks stock. Downside - not cheap GCG around $1800, hypergear cheaper.

I would have thought there was a quality workshop in Zimbabwe or South Africa. Tracking that down would be my number one thought. I know of at least three places I could recommend in NZ to rebuild your engine to a high standard. Check out freight to NZ or Australia - members will be able to suggest workshops in Australia that could do the job but surely there must be someone on your continent that can do it!!

You won't need the afm if you don't change the injectors. Save the money for your turbo - total installation costs will be more with bits and pieces. Also I think fuel pump will cost more than $150 and afm will be $300. Just do the turbo and fuel pump for now. What are you using for boost control?

What was wrong with your stocker? Put that back on.

i haven't seen those shims. I had a GTR bov on my RB25DET running 1 bar making 245awkw with no problems.

I see you are reading Sk's tutorial. Did you read it before you did the job (especially the bit that says "This is a picture of the camshaft orientation, you need to make sure they are both at TDC, when you start, when you finish and at all times in between"...and same with the crank)?!

You appear to have the correct coilpacks fo your car so it is unlikely that they are all dud (you could put your old ones back in to double check). Did you refit the wiring loom for the coils correctly? What else did you change on your car ?

Before you start pulling the engine out get some professional advice from a machine shop. Myself I would look at welding the harmonic balancer to the crank before i started pulling out a perfectly good motor but there might be a better way!

Get a 3in front pipe with split dump. Wind the boost up a little more unless you get R&R (do a search) and then knock it back until it comes right. Swap the R33 smic for an R34 one (straight swap - should be able to pick one up for under $100)

Not something I did to my car (engine is still out of it) but what I did today: went to Tauranga for an SDU (Skylines Down Under) dyno day. In the awd turbo class an R32 GTR made 501awkw, an R33 GTR made 381awkw and a 260RS Stagea was third with a first run of 300awkw on 14psi and on 18 psi made 324awkw (for those who remember Psymin's Stagea it is no more - he is putting all the good running gear in an R32 GTR and the car is for sale with an RB26... pretty much stock RS260). A 4wd V8 Adventra made 228awkw!

To remove stubborn nuts: soak in CRC, WD40 or other penetrating oil overnight. Then with a hammer whack the flats of the nut as hard as possible without rounding or damaging them. Then use a power bar with a short length of pipe if necesary!

Injectors should be Ok you can always change them later if you want more power. Your turbo will lack pickup but will make big power - your choice.

Flushing is unlikely to clean out a blocked radiator. Try the cheap fix (test or replace your thermostat if you have to go to the trouble of pulling it out) but if that doesn't fix it new radiator = $300 cooked engine = $$$$$$$$$$

Doors, clock, autoshifter, ABS unit gone. Also have fuel tank sender unit for guage $20

How much power are you looking for ? I got 245awkw out of a GCG highflow (R33 not R34) at 16psi - could probably have got a bit more with a better front mount.

Try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery (won't help if your afm really has died).

So long as you get a tunable ecu the most important factor is the tuner. Find the best tuner in town and discuss your ecu choice with him (or her) before you buy and install it. The tuner in Sydney whose fame has spread to Auckland is Yavuz at Unigroup Engineering. Best bang for buck is Nistune but if you want better I would choose the Link (or ViPec). Support and new developments are better for them than for Pfc. The main advantage of the PFC is that there are a lot of tuners around who can use them (how well is another matter!).

9 times out of ten if your car is overheating its a blocked radiator. Its almost worth doing any way take the radiator (or the car if you prefer) to a radiator shop and get them to open it up and clean it out (flushing won't do it) and if they recommend a new core get one - its worth it.