KiwiRS4T

get the Bilsteins from a Bistein specialist. Sway bars are now made by Selby and quite expensive. See if you can get one off one of the people returning their Stageas to stock.

You could help by saying what you have done (if anything). Did you try to reset the computers by cutting the power? Have you considered renewing the fluid or at least bleeding the system? (Assuming you have at least checked the level) Do some research in Google - there is stuff like this: http://tyndago.googlepages.com/gt-rattesainfrormation

Price please

Getting them in is OK you can probably use a vise - getting them out is the hard part. With adjustable arms you can get more castor (gives straightline stability at speed) than even with the adjustable bushes.

Q2. I've heard that there is not much gain from fitting a new Front Swaybar so I was just gona get the rear (probs Whiteline). True/False? True for me. I bought the rear one and it made a huge difference. Put the front one on a few months later but I didn't notice any significant improvement. Other people's experience may be different.

You might be a little late -its dated August 2005.

You need a press or a gas axe, better just get 2nd hand adjustables.

Its all in the DIY sticky under O2 sensor

Have sent you PM re my S1 unit - let me know if you don't get it.

Can't you just pull the torque guage out and stick something more usefull in?

Try taking the battery terminal off and then replacing it - hopefully that will reset the attessa computer. If not pull the 4wd fuse in the fusebox next to the battery. If that doesn't fix it (or at least make it driveable) you will have to pull the front drive shaft (4 bolts). the attessa computer is hard to get at - its behind the trim behind the lh rear seat in the cargo area. Somewhere there are fault codes - it has a little light that blinks. Finally I have a spare attessa computer and also the unit that sits on top of the diff. (Also have a spare synchro switch if it is the switch in the dash that is stuffed). Good luck Bob

RB30 is the simple answer (I'll be putting a GT3540 with 6boost manifold etc)- stock 350 -400kw with massive low down torque or forged the sky's the limit. M35 is a more modern car but you have to look harder or make the bits - go for it if you like a challenge!

If you know nothing your best bet is to type "what do adjustable cam gears do" into Google and you will get a number of suitable answers. Great as this site is I find searching often difficult and tedious.

I have just ordered a set from Performance -wise:http://www.performance-wise.com/page68.htm

The latest issue of NZ Performance Car features a 260kw M35. I'll try to scan the article tomorrow if I get time but the guts is this: Started with a 2wd VQ30DE. Computer is Link G4 (wire in ViPec). Gearbox is Toyota R154 5 speed with custom bellhousing, 4 puck clutch, custom driveshaft 350Z diff, Bilstein shocks, Tein springs, 300ZX brakes front and rear, Work 18x9 front and 18x10 rears (widened rear guards), only started on the engine - Masterpower turbo @16psi. As my local RB guru likes to say "anything's possible if you have the inclination and the money".

I have a steel R33 split dump in my S1. Could be made to fit an S2 without too much trouble. I know the stainless manifolds have a bad record for breaking but I don't know about the stainless front pipes.

It should be on the factory ID plate below the model number(my guess is BT8) but put up your vin number otherwise for the definitive answer.

Checked out the NZ site - can't supply fronts. Saw these in the Performance -wise site ...i think they have been mentioned before: http://www.performance-wise.com/page68.htm

The answer is in the 5 lines above your post. (Unbrako available from Moyes and Groves, WR Twigg/ Grossmans).

Yes. I am using pipercross filter ...there are others. I am making 245kw atm - haven't seen my intake pipe sucking shut yet! I'll look at it again when I am getting above the 350kw the poster above is making with the stock airbox.

No Dave my pump is on all the time or off. When it is on it runs at full voltage the whole time. Is your car otherwise going OK now? if you are ready for a tune they should be able to put a meter on your fuel system and see what is happening at high revs and also to ensure that it is not leaning out at full throttle. Good luck Bob

My intank Walbro is directly wired for full voltage at all times and the relay is switched on/off only. The only time I hear the pump is when I first turn the key and hear it priming. I am not aware of it when the car is at the lights or otherwise idling. Maybe if you listen very carefully you could pick it out but I honestly don't think it will be annoying. The alternatives, short pump life or engine destroyed by insufficient fuelling, seem infinitely worse. For my purposes - big horsepower and track days - I am getting the extra insurance of a surge tank and a second pump (Bosch 044).

WRXs are very popular in NZ. You'd need 300awkw to stay with a WRX Sti. They pass me all the time at the track with my 245kw. As for cornering even a mid range WRX will leave a Stagea for dead. I like Stageas because of the way they look and because it is a really handy vehicle with great features. By the time I have spent about $15,000 on it I will be able to keep up with the faster WRXs!

Time to directly wire your new one before that flogs out! They like full 13+ volts.

Glad you're on your way. That looks more than reasonable - positively cheap considering i paid about that for an alternator over ten years ago.