Daleo

Cheers mate, sorry about the length; but it was the only way to get across the effort they would go to in trying to avoid their responsibility. They were reported, and owned. This is true; but try to avoid it if possibe, and ensure they agree IN WRITING. The catch will come when you have the car repaired; you normally have to pay the excess to the repairer, so they have you over a barrel, and they get to hide from you.

I bought Iain's China Rad, that was then modified to be a bit more of a direct fit. The trans cooler loop & fittings were nice too. Which it was, but yeah it was a bit of an ordeal. A little bit more neatening up, and I'll be happy. Just got to push the airbox lid in a bit with a heat gun and I'll be sweet. Possibly one more bleed/top up, but I think I've got it sussed now.

Yep; she's big bugger! Fortunately, I had a hoist, die grinder and air hacksaw in my arsenal today; needed all of them. I'm not completely finished, I'll be making a new set of top mounts; doesn't fit the OEM top positions. Bottom end was nice once I'd done some trimming. Drift Spec cable tie top mounts ATM. Also sent my R34 rotors out for slotting today, and had my current front rotors skimmed as I've recently picked up a bit of a shudder. My new set up looks like being ready to go on in a week or so.

And by "fun"; I mean shit.

Finally fitted my alloy radiator today; That was fun.

Spotted the Silver Aero kitted M35 that I parked next to at the pub last week again today; this time in Mt Riverview. Gonna have to stop & bail up the owner soon...

They look good; I see them in person fairly regularly. Sound like you & I have similar ideas on how firm these need to be set up; I think I'm 3 in from full soft Front, and 2 in from full soft Rear. Still a nice ride but it points and steers great. You need a bit of compliance to go quick on less than perfect roads. I don't like billycart suspension set ups.

Yeah, there's no sign of pinging that I can hear, so I figure if it goes well during the week; why not?

Very happy mate. Bring your laptop next weekend please? I think I'd like to try that last degree. Any time mate; happy to help out. Drilling holes in other peoples stuff, while partially drunk is my speciality...

Yours was the car I was referring to Rudi; did you go 2 degrees or 3? Every time I have a little tinker; I find myself wanting to spend buckets of money...

That's not entirely true, but it's not my place to identify the cars. Also, it seems more prevalent in vehicles with HICAS for some reason. I have a tow bar on mine (the Fast Fit towbar was designed on my car); and frankly, I believe they just aren't suited to towing something the weight of a car. I put a tonne in my trailer over relatively short distances (100km max), but I wouldn't want to do any more than that. I only end up with around 30-40kg on the ball in my "worst case scenario". I haven't had any cracking issues. There is no real chassis structure in the rear of the car that is suited to the forces you'll be putting through the rear sheetmetal. All you are really using is the rear bar reo mounts; and this is a structure designed for compressive forces(think rear impact), not to be held in tension. The legs that go under the car are only there to stop you applying torsion (leverage) to the reo mounts; not to carry any great load. As Alex said; go for your life if that's what you want to do, but just be aware. There are many other cars better suited to towing heavy loads; and have 2000+kg rated factory Hayman Reese towbars.

That's a killer price Jase; you'll have no problem offloading them, especially if they're as well cared for as your Rims. Just buy 'em Cam; they're tops.

Less "What I have done" and more "What Alex has done". Dropped off his Chassis Brace last night, and Alex kindly offered to throw his laptop & Cypher diagnostic on my Stag, to check for any outstanding ECU and SRS fault codes. None found; which was not unexpected, as my Attessa works fine, and I don't get any random Airbag codes. He then offered to throw 2 degrees (from a possible 3 deg advance in my case) of base timing in, and see what I thought of it. TBH, I wasn't really expecting much; but Alex told me a few interesting things about the improvement on another Forum members car. A quick run up the street to ensure there was no knock; all good. The trip home revealed a surprising result. The car is more responsive at small throttle openings, and seems to come on boost a little harder too. It's hard to explain; but it just feels a bit "tighter", like a bit (more) of the slack has been taken out of the throttle. Also it's less inclined to kick down on a hill in top gear, on the cruise control, which suggests that there's a bit of extra torque; just as Alex suggested It's another little "1%" improvement, that our cars seem to have plenty of... I'm quite impressed that such a small change could net such a pronounced improvement. I'll be giving it a bit during the week and if all is well; I think I'll be asking Alex to try the last degree at the Stagea meet. Thanks again mate; when we were talking beers, I was honestly expecting a sixpack; not a whole case! I'll still drink them though... Also pressed in a new set of Whiteline Lower Control Arm bushes, ready for my new brake set up this week.

Nice starting point; they sound better than they've got any right to. Safe riding.

+1 Iain; What did you end up using, and what is the end result? Did you do any supporting mods? Details man, DETAILS!!!

Couldn't agree with you more! A long story, but it will give you an idea of what they are like. Read if you dare. Bear in mind the employees you speak to are following a clear set of rules; that are designed to make you give up and GO AWAY. No is always their first answer in difficult situations. They do not make these rules, but are forced to apply them. They also use assumed names, but have a code that can be used as a reference. Ask for their code when dealing with them. Send everything by Email. Read on to see why. My Missus was involved in a nasty accident a couple of years ago; she was T-boned by an elderly who ran a red light. Massive damage, and she spent time in hospital. We had 4 witnesses prepared to make statements to our insurer, and the elderly gent was charged at the scene, and initially admitted being at fault. He later made a contradictory statement to his insurer that my Missus had pulled in front of him when he had a GREEN light. I dealt with our insurer for the entire time the car was being repaired (16 weeks) and they did everything to delay/avoid, and generally give us the run around. They decided that My Missus was at fault. They refused to contact the witnesses to corroborate my Missus story, and then started telling us that "Traffic signals aren't legally binding" and that we would have to pay our excess. Then when we told them the other driver had been charged at the scene they tried "The Police version is not what we take into account when attributing blame". WTF??? So traffic lights don't have to be obeyed, and the Police don't have any say... Right. Every time I rang to clarify, or chase up the case; the last person I had dealt with was "On Leave" or any number of different bullshit excuses. I would then have to spend half an hour explaining the ENTIRE case to a new person, at which time they would then request the documents again; which would go missing; again... Every time I faxed documents (the only way they would accept documents) they "weren't there" or "hadn't come through". They refused to pay for the Police report because it "Might not contain the information we desire" even though it clearly stated that the other driver was at fault and had been charged with negligent driving at the scene. Then they made the mistake of sending me an Email. I then scanned EVERY document, plus witness statements that I had collected on their behalf, and every name of every person I had dealt with in the elapsed time (which was now 10 weeks; still with no result) into a file. I then rang for what seemed like the four millionth time and got more run around when I had to deal with YET ANOTHER new person. When they started their spiel, I asked for their personal Email address and sent the ENTIRE file to them. If I was transferred; I would do the same. Now I had a proven way to establish that they had all the relevant documents in their possession. They transferred me and it started again; sent file again. This went on, once a day, every business day for another 4 weeks. (We are now at 14 weeks and they still can't decide who is at fault). I was finally handballed to a "supervisor" by a guy who couldn't rattle me even after swearing at me, in an attempt to engage me in an argument; so that he could terminate a 2 hour phonecall. I told this guy that I would ring on the hour, every hour if the issue wasn't resolved at the end of one week. He then rang and abused/threatened my Missus (who was standing next to me in the kitchen) on our home phone; which has an inbuilt answering machine until she was in tears. I decided to record the conversation, and then played it back to him after I'd taken the phone from my missus. He SHIT himself. I told him that I was going to hand over the recording to the Ombudsman. The next day the issue was resolved, (no excess, and no more arguing) and we received a formal apology from the Regional operations manager of the insurer. The crux of our situation ended up being that the at fault driver was insured by THE SAME insurer as my Missus; so they were trying to take two bites at the cherry, as they had to pay for BOTH cars. I haven't named the insurer, but if you'd like to know who it is; feel free to PM. Do not give up. Cheers, Dale.

Looks the goods there Ryan, you're running the same offset as mine, with a slightly smaller rolling diameter. Regarding Wheel sealing; I definitely recommend it, I've been using Autoglym Wheel Seal for several years now; it's just an aerosol spray on; wipe off deal. I re-apply it every few months, and the brake dust just washes away with a Meguiars wheel detailing brush. I'd stay away from anything you need to leave soaking; they should clean up with minimal effort once sealed.

Yes, BUT you will need to sleeve the mounting bolts on the front calipers from 14mm to 12mm.

Same; the boot was just too shallow for me; otherwise I'd be hitting some 1JZ action. The late model vvti single turbo 1JZ's are a much nicer thing to play with. I still don't think the interiors are quite up to the standard of the Nissan though.

Nice one mate; Auspost finally understand they must deliver MY parts the fastest. Have fun mate; let me know what you think of the improvement!

Ooooh, Chaser! Me likey!

I'm confused; you are insured, and the guilty parties have been identified. That's it. You only pay your excess if you are at fault, or if the other party cannot be identified; not if your insurer is too lazy to do their farking job. Your insurer can chase them for the money; if they don't like paying claims, they should get out of insurance and go pick apples or open a KFC. It's not up to you to chase the guilty party for money, that's the job of, wait for it; THE INSURANCE COMPANY! That's the service you PAY for when you insure your car; they certainly don't provide it free of charge. Tell them to get off their collective arses and serve you; THE CUSTOMER! If they won't help, politely ask them the best way to get in touch with the Insurance Industry Ombudsman; and ask them which individual you should refer the Ombudsman to; when it comes time for them to explain the situation. I have a funny feeling they might be a bit more forthcoming if you are a bit more determined. Don't listen to their BS runaround; they hope you'll give up and then they get to keep your premium and do nothing.

If you're worried about that; you (I) could roll a piece of sheet steel as a shield around the underside of the bung & sensor & weld on to the pan. I don't think it would be an issue TBH; Jetwreck would be able to tell you if he's ever seen a pan with gouges or dents, mine didn't even have a stone chip in the paint.

That would be my choice; weld or braze a bung in to the pan. The other thing; I wouldn't be surprised to find a spring & detent ball behind one of those bolts...

The T18 was a pretty ordinary handling car from the get go; must be a bit of work to make one go 'round a corner with a 1J... I do like the way they sound though. 1J's that is...