Daleo

That's the same reason I painted these, looks like the finish has been stripped, that and a bit of gutter rash. I think the shadow chrome finish is a bit susceptible to damage. It costs about $220 a litre for the paint, and I was quoted $250 per wheel to apply, as it is a 4-5 step process. Nick, I have a set of ugly ass stockers if you need some rims .

So Jetwreck has indeed joined a very exclusive club with his Nismo . Oh well, maybe one day a remap will be available for the rest of us poor souls...

I'm assuming drags would've been cancelled last night, due to rain. Did anyone go?

Thanks Andy, these are what I've wanted since I first bought the car! Really happy with the way they came up . I was going to re-do the shadow chrome, until I found out the price! So just went 2pak in the end. I think they look a little bit R35 GTR (about as close as I'm ever gonna get, anyway)! Cam, +30 offset, and yes 18x8. No spacers, wanted to stay away from them on this car. I think my 245/45/18 rubber makes 'em look a bit wider, but I'm super happy with the look, offset is just right, even my missus likes 'em !

Some better pics now the car is clean & the sun is shining . Might have to go a bit lower now...

PM sent.

Just got my newly painted V35 wheels on the car Colour is Toyota Pewter. Thanks again Chris (Spoolin'12) for the wheels, though, I paid SIGNIFICANTLY more for the paint than what I was telling you! Better pics when the sun is shining.

What sort of cost is involved to replace the ram?

If my V35 rims are back from the painter tomorrow, I'll be coming out.

Almost certainly the cause. Pressure washers, the natural enemy of the car engine bay...

I just read your post properly, and saw that your issue was under full load, disregard my posts, go with the resident experts and service the box.

Sorry about that, posting from my phone, ran out of room. Anyway, as the sensor died, it became easier to diagnose. At a steady cruise, it would flick in & out of O/D as the gearbox lost the speed signal. The speed sensor (if it has one) is situated on the underside of the box near the gearbox mount, a black round item with 3 wire coming out of it. Unplug it, it easily screws out, leaving the drive mechanism in the gearbox. If it has atf in it, this MAY be your issue. The lip seal costs about $2 and takes about 20 mins to change, don't know about the speed sensor cost. As I say, not being a C34 owner, this may be of no use, just something to check.

Not being a C34 owner, I don't how useful this will be, but if these use an encoder style speed sensor in the gearbox, (rather than a cable drive set up) it may be the culprit. On most Nissan gearboxes the speedo drive points down, and if the lip seal in the drive goes, atf can leak down the speedo drive shaft and into the encoder. I had an auto R31 wagon that exhibited the same symptoms as the encoder filled with atf and slowly died. I know the next question, the speedo needle never even flickered, to begin with, but as the sensor

They do look rather good! Lol, what did you end up putting on them? My car looks like crap on it's stockers at the moment. Roll on wednesday!

Dunno, it had a few bids, and had started at a lower price. Never know... Still, even at that price, $300 cheaper than retail.

The guy auctioning the exhaust, has another one going to auction at present. The one you posted the link for went for $1350.

Watched your vids, this thing really does get a shift on! Can't wait for higher terminal speed! Pfft, Commodores, probably thinking "Shit, what kind of V8 does he have in that Volvo, I need more NOS!"

Spotted white RS Four, COP xxx, about 12pm, turning onto Northern Rd Penrith, from the M4. In my missus Mazda, so didn't toot.

Lol, iI think so too! I'd get on board with this, been thinking of heading out for a while, to get a baseline for future mods/ dreams...

NM35 is D2R also. 4500k is std but, I reckon 6000k go a bit better, that's what I've used in the past.

Yeah, a bit of localised heat will do the job nicely, you can also buy aerosol can "Freeze Spray" this stuff is excellent if you have limited access, or wiring nearby.

It should be M14x1.25mm. Rule of thumb for all tapping drill sizes is; Nominal bolt dia. minus thread pitch. In this case 14mm minus 1.25mm.Tapping drill size; 12.75mm. Obviously, use a drill press to ensure you get the holes square, with the caliper firmly clamped. Use a tapping compound or grease to lubricate the drill, not too fast, take your time. When tapping, use a tapping compound or grease to lubricate the tap, you don't want it to bind or break. Don't be shy, use plenty, it wipes off at the end. Ensure you are using a Taper or Intermediate tap; a bottoming tap will be almost impossible to start. (or just buy a complete tap set; it comes with all three). Take your time to ensure the tap is straight and square once you start a tap crooked, it can be difficult to straighten. For every full turn on the tap, back off 1/2 a turn to break the chip, when you wind it back, it will go tight, then the chip will break, then release. If you don't do this the thread can start to tear, and feel rough; you want a nice smooth finish. Use a proper tap wrench, not a shifting spanner; it will be much easier to ensure the tap is square. I hope I haven't oversimplified this, not trying to treat you like an idiot, just wrote for novice use. Good luck, Dale

Thanks iamhe77, I'll give him a call tomorrow& see how I go, and I'll report back. Cheers, Dale.

Hi guys, I'm at the point where I'd like to add sway bars to finish off my car from a handling point of view, and I know several forum members have Selbys (or Superior Suspension) set-ups that were made by Sydneykid, first fitted Andy65b's AR-X and the subject of a very detailed and interesting thread. Superior/ Selby don't appear to exist anymore, and Sydneykid only pops up from time to time, so I'm wondering if I've left my run too late. Did some other company take over, or purchase Superior Suspension's intellectual property, (i.e Whiteline, etc) and is there still a way to get these bars, or am I looking at having to start from scratch and go custom made? Whiteline only have listings for 350Z (and I believe the rear bar is similar/ compatible) but to be honest, after purchasing bars from them in the past wasn't hugely impressed with the fit (ended up fabricating my own mounting hardware on more than one occasion) , nor am I keen on paying $500+ each for Freeway Dolphin. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers, Dale

Seriously, it comes with pizza vouchers, breath strips AND a mix CD, who is he to resist?