Daleo

I reckon 235 is probably a bit too much of a stretch, 245 at least... Spal thermo's are quite thin, but I'm sure one of the guys who've fitted the kit will chime in with the best option. P.S. Hurry uuup, I want to see pics!

Pad size helps, but what really gives power to a braking system is the amount of leverage you can apply. This is why increasing disc diameter is effective. The same size pad in the same caliper, with the same amount of effort applied will work more effectively on a 300mm disc, than a 260mm disc because the force (caliper squeezing the disc) is applied further from the fulcrum (centre of the hub). Add to this the benefit of extra surface area to shed heat and the situation just gets better. The biggest advantage you gain with braided lines is all the effort you apply to the pedal makes it to the caliper instead of getting wasted when the rubber line expands. This gives a firm, immediate response to your input.

No worries, I'm about. Looks spot on mate

Spotted rosella's blue M35 on the Great Western Highway at Glenbrook, about 9:30 today. Looks nice mate, but needs a bath! Lol.

Lol, or; "They followed me home, can we keep them?"

Nice one! Always like it when these type of threads come to a happy end. The DIY fix is often the sweetest one.

Nice, Petrodola, very nice. Looking forward to seeing those rims on the car.

Maybe try a glazier? I've had mirror glass cut by a glazier in the past and glued it in, might be an option.

Helicoil only has std thread dia on inside. You tap thread for Helicoil with dedicated Helicoil tap, not the next size larger tap of the same thread pitch.

Awww damn! Hope it turns up soon.

Hi Chris, I sent you a PM about the steering wheel last week. If you want to send me some bank details I'll fix you up. Cheers, Dale.

+1 I've been looking at these since you started talking about them. At that price I could probably justify one.

I used to have a set of those on my old r31 . Lenso's?

Totally agree, and I'm sure as there are more around, other solutions will crop up. I may have misunderstood petrodola, as he seemed to be looking for a cheap solution, however he obviously understands good work costs money, maybe he'll drive a new development!

Mine did a 14.9 bone stock. Most of these guys are mid 14's now. When you see the difference half a sec makes in distance over a quarter mile, you'll realise just how much work Scotty in particular has done. Also, the availability of ecu mods has not changed in the last two years despite an enormous amount of effort and expense from a number of people on this forum. I wouldn't be holding your breath waiting for a cheap, easy ecu remap. There is no "Nistune" style solution. When you get to that point, it's going to require a strong will and an open wallet. Not trying to put you off by any means, you just seem to be talking as if it's going to be a walk in the park. Remapped stock ecu's are rare and/or expensive. One very cluey tuner (possibly two) has a handle on them, courtesy of Scotty and Jetwreck and a not inconsiderable sum of money. Still, if keen people didn't push the envelope, we'd still be living in caves, trying to keep warm at night.

Thanks Cam, a picture tells a thousand words. If anyone needs more reason to buy a replacement now; I can't help you. Buy one, you won't regret it. That is all.

With a knot in your stalk ...

On mine; I insulated Dump, and front pipe, leaving cat exposed, with a 50% overlap, this took me to level with the back seat. Again, you mightn't want to get that excited, my wrap was free . Do your exhaust manifold if you like, I'd be happy with the factory heat shield in most cases.

Spot on, that's how I read it. Yeh, I'm with you on the fourbies, although it should be noted, the 4WD community and associated businesses were instrumental in getting the first version of this abortion removed. They seem to pack a bit more clout as a group than us annoying car enthusiasts.

No, definitely worth putting an exhaust on a street car. If you want to insulate pipework post intercooler, go for it, I'd resist insulating pre intercooler; you'll be able to shed some heat there.

I understand your reasoning, but the thing is, about an inch behind the turbo, the pipe diameter reduces to less than 2" , turns 90 degrees, then it opens to a catalytic converter, reduced in dameter again to around 2", then another bend . This is a massive restriction. Compare that to the group buy dump, off the flange wider than 3", gentle bend, diameter smoothly reduced to 3", no in pipe cat, then a smooth 3" mandrel bend. This is where the improvement lies. Any changes made to the exhaust further downstream i.e; high flow cat, larger exhaust just enhances the benefit.

I fitted the dump pipe alone before doing the rest of my exhaust. I used the "this will make life easier for the turbo, extending it's life, AND we'll get better fuel economy cos there's less restriction" route to justify the purchase, and thus far both have been successful . Definitely the best single mod, and it only improves as you move further through the exhaust upgrades. 'Course if my turbo fails I'll have some questions to answer... The added noise issue is a bit of a non event, You can hear the whistle a little more, slightly metallic sound, not unpleasant. The other side of that is, I'm convinced the turbo spools up faster, so the engine noise doesn't mask it as much. All up though, you won't really notice much change in noise; only performance . Mine's heat wrapped, so no heatsoak issues to speak of, and this may also damp a little bit of noise.

I think you'd be ok with your car fully loaded with camping gear and mates, the quote was something along the lines of a car at roughly standard weight, etc. Regarding the enforcement issue, I'd be betting it's going to be fairly subjective, I.E."That car looks a bit low there sunshine", "No officer, it's within the legal guidelines" "Oh really, well why don't we let the inspection station take care of that" *affixes defect notice* Much the same as a "loud" exhaust. All depends on the situation, and how "respectful" you are at the time. Also did anyone else spot the form you MUST submit to the RTA if you "Owner Certify" your height change mod, even within the 50mm limit? Did owner certification have to be backed by documentation previously? Surely without a current copy of that form, you'd be on for an instant defect.

Picked up my car this morning, resplendent in new heatwrapped mid pipe, 100 cell hiflow cat, and shiny Fujitsubo exhaust fitted. Now it's 3" from turbo to tip. Canak Autosport did a beautiful job on the mid pipe; tucked up nice and close to the floor, out of harms way. Cost a little more than I expected, but there's almost $400 in cat, flex joint and flanges. Sounds brilliant, no drone, just a sweet rumble at idle, and nice rasp as you rev out. Now pushes almost 15 psi instead of 12, feels so much more responsive! One very happy camper.

If you read the section "frequently asked questions, it states that there is no hard data to support the case that raised or lowered vehicles are over represented in crash statistics. This is the introduction of a criteria to collect statistics. Statistics can then be gathered to support a particular type of argument. Or, read another way, young people drive lowered cars, young people have more accidents; voila; lowered cars are dangerous, therefore placing the blame for the accident squarely on the drivers dangerous vehicle, NOT the crappy road, NOT the crappy training provided for learner drivers, NOT the drunken f##kwit who swerved into your lane; No, no it was that lowered car... Now we don't have to fix roads, we don't have to make hard decisions about how we train drivers, nor do we have to put more police on the streets to catch the really dangerous drivers. We can just blame a young guy in a lowered car for the lot. Hit the easy target. Or maybe I'm just paranoid...