Daleo

Presumably, once they have the numbers, it will still be some time before the manual is translated and yet more time before it is formatted and printed. You're going to be paying $150, I don't imagine a photocopy stapled together is what you want, given the outlay. Also, I was under the impression that there was a confirmation process, and also a collection of deposits/ full payment prior to printing anyway. Patience is a virtue. Cheers, Dale

Whilst loading a case of beer into my garage beer fridge, accidentally dropped one on the floor. Bottle hits the ground, smashes, then to add insult to spilt beer, the broken end with the cap still attached, bounces 5 feet, hits the door of the Stag and put 3 little scratches on it! F##k this for a game of soldiers, going to drink a few of his mates, that'll learn 'em...

Got to send off membership forms etc, and I'll be there!

The 3% variance is for variation in tyre from O.E. I would guess. The Axis rim is 18x8" +30 offset. It will easily take a 245 wide tyre without looking too "muffin top" . As per my previous post; a 245/45/18 gives a slightly larger rolling diameter, and tested against a GPS, reduced speedo error from 110 km/h at a GPS verified 99 km/h, to 110 km/h at a GPS verified 107 km/h. Khumo KU31 in the 245/45/18 has a load rating of 100. Hope this helps, Dale

Pm replied Cheers, Dale

Unlikely to be all 24 valves, replace bent valves , re-cut seats, valve grind, maybe guides, and new stem seals. If it's apart, you might as well do it right. A reputable head specialist would look at what you have damaged and recommend the best course of action.

As an aside; in about 2 weeks I'll have a set of 18x8 +40 offset, ARX alloys in immaculate 2pack silver, no marks, no rash, with worn out tyres going quite cheap, these look great on M35's. I just have to wait for my new rims to be painted. PM if interested. Cheers, Dale.

The biggest issue to look at here is the staggered sizes. You really need to stay with the same size wheel & tyre front & rear. Differing tyre dia, even a couple of percent out cause issues with the atessa. Don't even get me started about welded wheels; how did they crack, where is your x-ray report to guarantee this wheel won't destroy itself... In the Stagea classifieds, a fella has a set of Buddy club 19 x 9.5" +38 offset with ok tyres for about $1200! He says these have been test fitted on an M35 and were perfect, I'd talk to him..

The "really bad exhaust leak" sound you are hearing is likely the compression from a cylinder leaking past a bent exhaust valve no longer sealing the cylinder. The "tight spot" you keep coming up against when you turn the engine over is possibly a valve bent at its full extension into the cylinder. At this point, there is no cheats way to diagnose your problem and continuing to turn the engine over, is only likely to end in more damage. Pull the head off and assess the damage. Sorry mate, it happens to most of us at some point if you play with cars.

V35 rims go in today for new shiny paint! Just have to pick the colour, not going shadow chrome, paint alone cost $250 a litre! Also on the downside, my wheel painters prices have gone up by quite a lot, yikes!

Mine have been in since Christmas, perfect, better than the price suggests. Once you've set your final height, get a good 4 wheel alignment, it'll really finish it off, & your tyres will thank you!

Go the BC's, great value for money, you won't be disappointed.

Seems to be pretty common, most cars over read to a greater or lesser extent, going up in rolling diameter, generally minimises the error. Mine used to over read by 10%, down to 3% with bigger rolling diameter.

The problem with the M35 is there's no strut towers as such to brace off. If you were really keen, you could build a roll hoop and tie it in to the floor and the rear seat belt mounts with a cross bar to triangulate. But it seems like a bit too much effort for a 1700kg car with all the fruit. I have seen braces that tie the subframe together and also the subframe mounts. Big advantage, you can't see any of it.

12 forum post and you've already made so many new friends , maybe you need to check the attitude?

Going to have to disagree with you on this one Stephen... I believe the most beneficial thing you can do for the life of these turbo's, given their fragility; is to reduce the restriction of exhaust flow. The standard dump pipe is massively restrictive, both in pipe diameter and also, as Andy has said, it contains yet another catalytic converter. To give you an idea of the restriction, the flange off the turbo exhaust housing is oval shaped, 105mm wide by 55mm high. Within 30mm the diameter is reduced to less than 55mm! A huge reduction in flow, in anybody's book! This restriction manifests as a huge heat load for the turbo to deal with. Replace this with a free flowing dump pipe, a high flow catalytic converter and a well designed 3" exhaust, and you will almost certainly extend the life of the factory turbo. I currently have ONLY the group buy dump pipe on my car, with a 2 1/2" compliance cat (unknown quality) and the full factory exhaust (teamed with a K&N air filter). The difference made by this simple addition of the dump pipe is simply amazing! The car has a much deeper note, and the response of the turbo is much quicker and the reduced throttle required at any speed is easily noticeable. So large was the improvement, that I am presently planning to replace only the cat (with a 3" high flow) and running 3" mandrel bent to the front of the factory 2 1/2" muffler with a tapered reducer. I believe the hot gasses will have cooled enough in that distance it shouldn't present a very large restriction (given that cooling gasses shrink).That way I can keep the factory silence. It will be backed up with back pressure testing to see whether it actually needs a full 3" system. Fortunately, I have the time to waste, to see if I can save a few dollars. All of this is just one man's opinion, of course. Good luck Whitestag, the guys you're asking have plenty of experience and are an excellent resource. Cheers, Dale.

Spotted Spoolin's M35 in his driveway this arvo. Good to meet you Chris, thanks for the wheels, looking forward to getting them on my beast!

Spotted a silver M35 outside Wetherill Park recycling centre, stock as a rock! Flashed but don't know if the driver saw me in my invisible black M35...

It's rare that something happens in my bit of the world, I'll be putting this on the calendar. Would be awesome seeing wall to wall GTR's!

+1. As usual, impressed by your pioneering innovation! You must be extremely pleased with the results, with 245 conservative AWKW's, your car must be quite a beast now. I can only dream of achieving something close. Nice to know it's possible. Champion effort!

I'd try getting in touch with Wholesale Suspension in Penrith, They've fitted coilover kits to quite a few M35's, and have good alignment settings for them too. They have also done a bit of work with r35 GTR camber adjustment bushings. Steve is very knowledgable regarding all things suspension.

I was lucky, as my RS has been optioned with one, funny, 'cos it seems to have missed every other cool option. The LSD is quite good. The diff certainly looks like a shortnose r200, so hopefully that will open up the options for aftermarket replacements.

Possibly referring to a V-band clamp arrangement for flange jointing; quick, neat, no leaks, and good for fine tuning fitment of pipework.

That's good to know, I erred to the side of caution, due to the cost of headlights, might go a bit harder! Did you upgrade wiring or do relays? Some cars already have them in place. Cheers, Dale

+1 on what these guys have been saying. I decided to replace my shoddy highbeams with some Phillips Blue vision globes, and these are an improvement over std. Colour matches the xenons much better, light output is good for a 55/65w globe. The other alternative is to rewire the fog/highbeam headlight circuit with some relays; (this stops you pulling too much current through the switchblock) and use higher wattage H4 globes, I've used up to 90/110w globes without issue in other cars and they are bloody amazing! The downside of this is; higher wattage globes can melt the plastic headlight housings. So be sensible. Hope this helps.