Daleo

Heat wrap/ lagging is predominantly used to protect surrounding components from heat damage in the case of exhausts. There is an amount of evidence to show keeping the heat in the pipes also improves gas flow due to higher temp as opposed to cooling (shrinking) gas where heat is shed. I'd stay away from heat wrapping intercooler pipes, unless they were routed near the exhaust, the pipe will shed heat better without it. I'm just using steam pipe lagging on my dump & front pipe, it was easily available to me through work, and performs the same as any other type of "specialist " heat wraps for cars. Resist the temptation to paint it though, you will be subjected to a life of burning paint fumes until you finally give up and remove it; as my friend found out... +1 with Big Fella on mild steel, use only on stainless.

My mechanic is putting it together today, I'm picking it up tomorrow. Pics to follow.

New hi flow cat and 3" front pipe going on today to marry up to dump pipe and Legalis exhaust. No more compliance cat & stock pipe! Powahhhh!

I bought mine from a trader on ebay, but justjap would be your best bet. As for low, you could use it as a grader fully dumped. . Seriously, I'm at about 110mm at the bottom edge of the front bumper lip, could go at least another inch, inch and a half.

Nah mate, all depends on what you use. I'm using BC, HR series, not harsh or hard, just firm and controlled. On softest setting (of 30 steps) it is beautiful, every click makes a noticeable difference. Best part; set the height exactly where you want.

Faark dude, even with my best squint I can't read that properly, hope someone's got better eyes than me. I'll have 6 beers and come back to it. Around +5 deg 22" left, +4 deg 41" caster; -1 deg camber and +0.5mm toe was optimal on my old r31, and it needed camber/caster adjustable strut tops to get there; obviously there'll be some differences given the rear can also be aligned. How were they adjusting the caster? Are your caster rods adjustable? On my NM35 they're not...

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Motor magazine lists the VE Sportwagon SS-V kerb weight at 1872 kg. 0-100 time 5.5 sec, standing quarter at 13.6 sec. These numbers are slightly slower than a VE SS-V sedan, but the sedan weighs in at 1789 kg; almost 100 kg lighter. The only time you'll be dragging off a VE wagon, is on a wet road, or in Scotty's beast.

First post says it was bought as a front cut, and it appears to be a bit of a bitsa.

Good luck, I'd imagine the boys who have them paid similar money, and given their rarity, I'd say it's not bad value, given the alternatives. If you had one you'd have to be an idiot to sell...

+ 1 million! I can vouch for the difference it makes even with a standard exhaust. Spools up faster, accelerates harder, more responsive, nicer engine note, slightly better fuel economy, need any more reasons?

That's cos my Stag's invisible! Two years now; never spotted. Congratulations on the time, looking forward to another visit to E.C. in a few weeks with my new exhaust.

Saw bbenny's shiny blue beast on the M7 about 5:30ish today. Love your car. On the way to E.C drags? Good luck!

It is, but you're still starting a car with a cold engine, which is when you need an oil to work. Any extra protection a slightly thicker oil can provide is a good thing, and I don't live in Antarctica, so on a 40 degree summer day, it might be useful.

I queried that too, he has customers using it in sportsbikes: and also in his own R1, as it has no friction modifiers, no clutch issues, swears by it. Bike engines are built to easily the same tight tolerances as our engines; if not tighter. Also, if you look at the guys tracking R35 GTR's, they're using significantly heavier oils than std. In any case, I'm sure this will bring out some discussion.

Interestingly, I spoke to one of the reps at the Penrith Gulf Western branch; which I believe is their Head office. Told him what I had, he recommended their Protecta Ultra 15w50 Semi Synthetic. His reasoning was that the mineral oil content provides a far better "metal wetting " than a Full Synthetic, and the 30% synthetic component provided excellent shear resistance, for extended life. He did agree the Full Synthetic provided better shear protection for longer in extreme conditions, but doesn't "stick" as readily to metals. He also said that most mass market Semi Synthetic oils contain barely 5-10% Synthetic; just enough to satisfy the labelling criteria. A very informative chat.

Lol +1 There's a set of tein super wagon coilovers on eBay, $850 buy it now.

Pm sent.

Yeah I know Cam, that's the bit that shits me. The bonehead that fitted the crappy, unnecessary compliance cat cut out the rear flange, and welded it in. So I've got to buy a 3" cat and sort the flanges. On top of that, I don't have access to a tig at the moment. PITA!

Waiting 'till I get my new pipes on then I'll be out again. Wednesday might be a bit soon Good luck guys!

Picked up my bargain Fujitsubo Legalis exhaust today

You may find you require offset bushes in upper arms to correct camber on the front. I wasn't aware of any camber adjustment on the rear. Are you referring to the eccentric bolts on the inner of the lower arms? If so, these are for toe adjustment. The alignment of the shock mounting will have no effect on front camber, this is set by the upper & lower control arms. Did your Teins come with instructions? I'd refer to them for correct top plate orientation, or compare to the original equipment.

RBD2, that's rotten, hope it turns up unmolested. Finally fitted my trans cooler and some new smd parker globes, nice white light, not blue like my last pov set. Jeez I hate getting those globes out, even with the bar off and the lights halfway out it's a pain!

Looks a bit like the otomoto intercooler. I'm looking at one of these myself, could be a perfect fit below the bumper reo.

Just bought a Fujitsubo Legalis exhaust on Ebay!