Hanaldo

Yeh I'd say closer to 1500 to fit and tune. 1000 if you installed the turbo yourself.

Yeh I remember reading the article in HPI magazine about the condensation of E85 and how much more critical it is to do regular oil changes, the theory being that the same condensation that builds up in the exhaust also builds up in the combustion chamber and then finds its way back down into the sump, contaminating the oil quite quickly. Can't wait to join the club

I see. Well that mayyy explain things if the poncams required looser clearances. Current theory that Lithium suggested to me to explain my power issues as well as a few other things like hot start problems etc. is valve clearances being too tight. When I had my head reconditioned, the shop installed my cams and set my clearances, but the guy said they were pretty much spot on anyway. I would think he'd have used the specs on the cam card rather than looking up factory settings, but you never know... Guess I should get off my ass and check the clearances already!

This topic has come up at the right time. Does anything change the valve clearance settings? Ie. My head has Tomei Type-B Poncams and Performance Springs valve springs and retainers, as well as custom bronze valve guides. I never double checked what the head shop shimmed my valves to, so I don't know what numbers they used. Should my valve clearances still be using the factory settings or should they be different?

Fuel reg also useful with an aftermarket rail. Which in itself is ultimately pointless haha. I just wanted to join in

Lulz. Ok

I like how we've come from 2 weeks to 5-6 weeks. Mate, fuel doesn't go bad in 6 weeks. Wanna have a guess at how long any fuel you put in your car has been sitting at the fuel station? Or how long it sat in storage at the factory before it even got to the station? Your mates car was modified, that instantly puts any number of variables on it that could have caused the motor to blow. If detonation killed the motor then it could well have been a bad tune. Hell, it could even have been sitting in Japan for 2 years before it moved, so you've got no idea how old that fuel was. ANYWAY. This thread was about exhausts or something right?

Haha our JPC here also loves RB30's, though admittedly they don't build them in-house. Carry on sirs

Personally I only use Royal Purple 10w40 engine oil, but that's just a personal thing. Lots of guys using Penrite, Motul, Gulf Western, etc. Weight of the oil you use depends on how many km's your engine has on it. Power steering I just use the OEM Nissan stuff, and I've got a manual gearbox so can't help you with transmission fluid. As for maintenance, not a lot you need to do other than check fluid levels etc. every so while. The car should be fine sitting for a week or two, mine sits for months at a time haha. If it is going to be sitting for longer than two weeks without getting a decent drive, I recommend getting a 3-stage battery charger to ensure you get a good life out of your battery. Don't let the car warm up in the morning by letting it idle, that's silly. It takes longer for the engine to warm up this way, and you need to warm up your gearbox and diff anyway. Plus you annoy your neighbors. Just drive the car gently for the first 10-15 minutes or so, depending on how cold it is. If you plan on doing some track work at any stage, some gauges (water/oil temp, oil pressure, etc.) wouldn't go astray and I find mine extremely useful. Otherwise, just drive the car like you would any other car, and service it regularly

What are you doing to snap spark plugs and ezy outs? Definitely talk to Gerry at Headtorque, but I think you're gonna have to take the head off.

JPC? does that mean you're in Perth, or is there another JPC in the country?

Because if I drove it everyday I would drain that old fuel out of the tank, pour it all over the pig and set the motherfkr on fire Haha, just kidding... It's just too loud, too rough, and too uncomfortable to drive on a daily basis. But that's also what I love about it

2 weeks haha. Fark me, I'd never be able to drive my car, it gets parked for months at a time!

Might be a little bit far off topic, but I've searched without much luck and doesn't seem worth creating a new topic. Just in the process of wiring my AEM UEGO wideband to an input on my Link G4 plug in so that I can log my AFR's. But the Link doesn't have the AEM in it's list, so just wanted to see if someone can confirm whether I am setting up the calibration table correctly? I believe the AEM uses a linear signal; 0V = 10AFR, 2.5V = 15AFR, and 4.99V = 19.98AFR. That's according to the table in the user manual: http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf As I understand it, calibration tables 4-6 are the linear tables in PCLink. Looking at cal table 6 which appears to be unused in mine, input value A is 0.00V and input value B is 5.00V. I set the output units to AFR. I am guessing now, that I should set the output value A to 10AFR and output value B to 20AFR? Or should I change input value B to 4.99V and output value B to 19.98V, as per the AEM calibration table? Then after it is connected, I assume I need to make sure the ECU reads the same as the wideband gauge display? And if it doesn't, adjust the cal table to suit, or? Just wanting to make sure I'm on the right track here.

Why use an ethanol content sensor if you want to run WMI? There is no real benefit of running E85 and WMI, as shown in one of the threads here. And if you were going to go down the flex fuel route, it would be far easier to use an intercooled setup rather than setting up WMI purely to lower intake temps. I really suggest taking a look at 34GeeTeeTee's setup and the Forced Performance HTA thread. That really is as close to the perfect setup as I have seen so far... Cars are doing this from factory these days? Holden Commodores are the obvious ones, but even my dads Honda Insight runs flex fuel and could run on ethanol if it were available here.

Posting in here to follow... Gorgeous fabrication mate, loving it.

This ^ Rebuilding calipers is very easy, the money workshops charge you to do it is ludicrous.

Pity the drags aren't going for awhile now

He's got an interchangeable setup, can switch it between plumb back and atmo at will. Really is the perfect setup. Congrats Mat

Sigh... Your car used to inspire me. Now you're 200hp ahead of me and all it does is make me hate mine haha. Oh well. Even with all that power, mine is still louder

Mine rose to 12psi when I did the full turbo back exhaust. It definitely rises when you get it all breathing well.

Yeh, see this is why you need to go to the NA section and read the threads written by the people who have already done this. The tune is the critical part of a de+t.

If you think swapping a turbo motor in is a hassle then you're in way over your head with a turbo conversion haha. Has been discussed to death though, check out the 'how to turbocharge your na' thread in the na section.

Here's the dyno sheet:

Haha totally happy to share, Mat (34GeeTeeTee) gave me your email address, I could email you some stuff if you prefer?