scotty nm35

That's not a melted piston, something dropped in there at decent revs. Was it a valve guide? Melted piston would be on the exhaust side too.

Yeh, because getting shit service is just as important as a good flowing manifold. There are plenty of fabricators out there making RB manifolds, and most are easy to talk to. Some will even make the manifold to the specs you want without having a cry...

Stock injectors, lol, why didn't you get me to ship a set of 550 sidefeeds up with the housing Johnny? Or a top feed rail and 1000's?

There should be a few guides on Attessa bleeding on here from a few years ago. As has been mentioned there s a plug under the dash that needs to be pulled to put the attessa in constant pressure mode. Then I just crack the front bleeder on the transfer and get someone else to fill the reservoir in the back. I use my brake bleeding bottle and hose so as not to make a mess.

Pressure test the intake by all means. What spring are you using in the wastegate? Are you using a MAC valve to hold the gate closed also?

What part are you trying to change fluids in though, the attessa or the transfer case?

What was the price? I sell Bosch ev14's pretty cheap...

Coated I bet, they rust out from the inside anyway. Try fabricating a bare steel system without a coating on the inside and see how long it lasts. You would need to factor in the coating costs to compare them properly. E85 will limit it's life even more. I don't need other people to tell me anything btw, I remove so many rusty shitty mild systems and replace them with my custom stainless, the piles of old pipes are leaving stains on my concrete. Do you want some? You are welcome to them. Your choice at the end of the day, I hate seeing rusty shit under my car. I guess if your ride is devaluing to nothing then a few hunge is not worth wasting on it.

Yep, sounds like way too much force on the clamp. The silicone beside the clamp should be flush with the outside of the clamp. If you get it right you can't damage the silicone or the clamp.

Changing fouled plugs will get annoying quickly I would guess. Ethanol wouldn't have that issue.

Mild steel will rust out in no time. Why not use stainless, the materials would cost bugger all extra, the main cost is in labour... And then I might actually be interested in buying some.

I still can't find e85 compatible hose if that's what you are looking for. The e85 walbro pumps come with a short length, I tried sourcing them from Aznew who supply the pumps here, they couldn't help me. Perhaps try Walbro themselves... I just use the Proflow intank hose from VPW.

Asking GCG anything is possibly not the best idea. You could easily get that power from a 3 inch dump if you are talking about an externally gated setup. I doubt the turbine outlet size is a worry.

I assume you are talking internal gate housings Angelo? Most setups I have seen hold nicely near spring pressure, as you try and bleed them up it can all go to crap due to manifold pressure. It's not such a bad thing to drop a little boost in the top end, the engine is ingesting a lot of air up there and boost is only a measure of the engines lack of airflow. Why overspin the compressor when most of the time it is just producing hotter air... A larger turbo and or housing will always help top end flow.

I don't know anyone who has actually bothered. Many have blanked it though. I would be pulling the sensor, heating it on the stove and measuring the resistance curve with a meter. (unless you can find the resistance graph in the Jap DD workshop manual) You would want to drop a resistor over the wires corresponding with around 3-400 degrees at a guess. Failing that, run a wire from the ecu pins to a varistor of the same range, so you can adjust it until you don't throw a code. I spoke to my injector wholesaler about the DD injectors, they can and do clean and flow test the stock injectors, as they have a special jig for all direct injectors, diesel and petrol.

I have seen pistons hit the head, and it was making a fair noise by that stage. To hit the plug you would have to be running a longer plug than recommended. My suggestion, try another mechanic.

^^ Wot Ben said Steve. Why was it leaking anyway, do you have it venting? Plugging the intake should have both sides of the bov at the same pressure... Just make sure it's plumbed back.

Better clamp does not mean those wide Tbolt clamps though. I find the normal worm drive clamps work better, as long as they aren't overtightened or re-used too many times.

Good reason there not to run Ebay sensors for critical tuning jobs.

Start the tune from scratch I say. Injector lag times and voltage curves are usually completely different meaning most of the fuel map is probably out. You can't just change the injector size on the hand controller and away you go. You really need to set the injectors first imo, then tune. Are you on ethanol? All else fails, aerostart.

Trouble is, the engine is most probably in some kind of limp mode if the engine lamp is lit. Not hard to trick the pyro temp sensor, it's just behind the throttle body. No idea what resistance to throw over it, but you could test it out yourself fairly easily on the stove. Just understand, there are fuel savings from exhaust gas recirculation... Up to you if it's worth the mess. The issue with direct injection messy intakes isn't just the egr and oil breathing, there is also carbon crap thrown back up the runner 4 inches or so when the intake valve opens. Standard top feed injectors would keep this part of the runner clean usually. I spent 20 hours cleaning an Audi RS4 V8's intake manifold runners, which was so bad after 100,000ks the ports had less than 30% of the original flow, and it was throwing tumbler codes. They don't even run egr. I'm not a fan of direct injection for this reason, unless the engine runs both kinds of injectors, like the new BRZ engine.

Lots of headaches. You would need to swap every ecu in the car along with the 5 speed auto. Better off going 6spd manual and a Haltech with the 3.5 conversion imo. There are more differences than you would expect.

I use one of those for alloy, it won't last long doing stainless though.

Good way of ruining the oscilloscope I would say, unless you can isolate the probe somehow. (I wouldn't be trying it with mine) Still won't show up what's happening under boost without some ingenuity on the dyno. I don't have RB coils here, but VQ coils don't seem to have any of these issues. (I am running 30-40psi on my original coils) they could possibly work if you removed the ignitor. You would need to make up some new brackets though, and hope the dwell is ok with the stock computer.

Sounds very unusual, but I guess every bearing wears out eventually. Perhaps an indication the odometer haircut was fairly decent on your car... A diff specialist might be able to rebuild it cheap, but for the price I have seen LSD 350z diffs going for recently, I would be going down the wrecker path with one of them, as long as the axle bolts are the same pattern...