scotty nm35

SA workshops must have pretty shit tuners then. They will last longer than a Garrett if high volume clean oil is supplied to them. Ball bearings are much more susceptible to oil quality issues and don't like massive thrust loads, especially when shoved into highflows, as I guess you have already found. A bush highflow can be rebuilt for $200 odd anyway. Boostworks didn't throw in a 550Lph pump, there is no such Deatschwerks. The e85 400lph isn't available yet so I guess it's the DW200 or DW300?

I agree to some extent Artz, but I have seen dangerous hack jobs out there that scare the hell outta me. Can you imagine what may happen if one let go on an unsuspecting driver? Especially if map sensored...

GTX3071 with .82 would be a better option for less lag, or a standard gt3076. Have you looked at the Hypergear turbo's? He has been getting some good results on RB's lately...

Hopefully I can supply aftermarket ones soon, Nissan charge an arm and a leg for simple sensors... What are you planning dump wise?

But... This is the basic first step of tuning with larger injectors... Get the sucker idling and free revving nicely, then start driving, or am I missing something?

Oh, bucket bong... Gotcha...

Back or front? The rears you will need 350z brembo's, or just leave the stock ones, rears make up only a small proportion of your braking. Front, the r34 brakes bolt straight up.

Lol. Great thread, will read again. 4g64 ftw, go the Magna motor.

Liberty sucks balls. Have you ever driven a real Stagea?

Joe, I just hope you aren't getting ripped off, you guys can do it yourselves these days. http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/966990295/Auto_meter_Auto_odometer_correction_digimaster.html Everyone knows it has been going on for years, and most importers were doing the shave... The industry is stained long term no matter how clean you are now.

Test the sensor reading using a cup of boiling water and a thermometer, I would say it is out.

Haha, just find a local bong head. I use a compressor, 30psi up the intake makes leaks pretty obvious, no need for the pot smoke...

33 front callipers will fit but the bolts are M12 and the stock ones are M14, so you will need a tube spacer which I can make if you need it. You will also need to remove the restrictor so the banjo will go all the way in. There is a good chance you will need to grind a little off the bottom of the hub or it will grind when you go around corners. The rears won't fit as the spacing is completely different.

Why don't you use a varistor? That way you can fiddle to your hearts content. I am guessing you will need to switch the resistor into the circuit when the egr valve opens, using a relay...

Thanks Johnny, see you tomorrow.

Does that mean the ODO has been wound forward again? (Just as illegal correct?)

So they dropped in fine with the 11mm rail Josh? Good to hear. Where's the pics?

Did he take it for a road tune after the dyno run? Usually these light load issues only pop up on the street. These things happen, as long as he fixes it free as you have already paid him for a tune... If you have issues still, it may mean he simply can't tune. (block or copy/paste tuner)

Exactly. The only reason you would need an ethanol content sensor is if you plan to run petrol one day and e85 the next, without draining the tank. A 10% ethanol variation is only a 2% fuel variation, and perhaps 1/2 an AFR point. As long as it goes richer not leaner there will be no issue at the track or on the road. Sourcing race fuel in drums will only help lighten your wallet. Why won't you be running much boost? My stock VQ loves track days at 30psi...

No, they all vary slightly... But it makes very little difference to your tune. If you tune on the leaner fuel (United) it will run fine on any e85. (Caltex, Powerplus, Drum e85.) I have been running various e85 fuels over the last 4-5 years with 20 or more tunes, some very lean, some rich. I had quite a few issues during that time that should have blown my engine, like wastegate lines popping off (running over 50psi) and fuel reg/map sensor hoses leaking vac, leaning the tune out to 20:1 on cruise. It still ran fine, no melted pistons or det. It really is the ultimate fuel for turbo cars, no matter what pump it comes from.

Unplugging the AFM can cause the AFM to freak out, perhaps try resoldering the pins on the board inside the AFM first, there is a how-to on here somewhere...

Lol. Get a new tuner.

I have seen you drive remote controlled cars, no way you are getting the keys.

A month or so at a guess. Hopefully he has his RWC licence by then...

Yellow evo7 taxi is gone from the back yard, soon to be stalking your Skylines, after the engine is built... Oh, that's right. None of you own Skylines anymore.