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scotty nm35

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Everything posted by scotty nm35

  1. Try loosening the crank sensor, and moving it around a little while cranking, sometimes they just aren't aligned properly. (the internals must move around?) Cleaning it can help too as they build up metal particles. Sounds like you will need a new crank sensor though.
  2. Where is the vac line connected? The Walbro pumps require 20 amps, so make sure your direct power feed is sufficient (40 amp relay at least) They also flow massive amounts of fuel, if your return line is restricted (most cars are) you will have issues running low fuel pressure. What was the base pressure by the way?
  3. GT or GTX? There is a big difference between the two. What fuel?
  4. I run my RE5 to over 8k, what are you trying to get out of yours?
  5. Yep, I still have a couple of flanges laying around. I will PM you.
  6. Whatever you need, 3 inch will flow over 300kw so 2.5 inch would do most guys. Bigger is always better with turbo cars though if you can handle a little extra noise. First and most important is to ditch the dump pipe. As long as the o2 sensor is left in position the ecu won't complain, it may take a few days to learn the new fuel requirements though. (Unless you reset the long term fuel trims with Consult3.)
  7. RB26 injectors? Probably just the Oring leaking at the rail. I can post you some new ones in a letter for bugger all if you want to change them yourself... Clean them up so you can see anything leaking after the Orings are done.
  8. The entire map went rich when we ditched (bypassed on the dyno) the one month old Ryco filter, we couldn't blow through it. Seems to be an issue with those of us on e85 so perhaps the glue on the element is breaking down and blocking it? Anyway, the simple fix is a 40 micron Stainless element or finer, although I don't like going finer usually as it will block quicker. As long as the mesh inside the injector is lsn't finer than the inline element I guess you should be ok.
  9. My catch can only ever has moisture and ethanol fumes, hardly any oil. I guess it has nothing to do with power or boost and more to do with bore wear. It did always blow a little smoke each morning, just oil from the pcv leaking down inside the plenum and sitting on an intake valve overnight.
  10. I used to run a dual map, just in case I couldn't find e85, but in 5 years I have only gone back to petrol once for a trip to Sydney. Now I have the missus A4 there is no need to worry. (about 50 servo's in Melbourne these days.) I could perhaps be persuaded to part with my GTX3071 setup which would easily smash a set of VQ35 rods. It would be very responsive on a 3.5L with the Tial 1.06 turbine housing, good for 350+ at the wheels. Otherwise custom fitting a turbo would be a lot of fabrication, as there is nothing available now the HKS 3037 kit was discontinued.
  11. I try and keep a set in stock for that very reason Dale, they can take a while to make apparently. I think around $450 for both Superpro bars is hard to beat. Quite willing to ask, but they can be difficult to deal with price wise. A group buy has a much better chance of working if there are good numbers involved I guess.
  12. I always thought it was straight forward, but the last one I did took a few goes. The wire pairs only work one way, I think we all just got lucky. If it doesn't work just swap them around.
  13. Just to compare, I have had my little VQ25det running 300-350kw for the last 5 years or so, stock... All you need is a set of sturdy rods installed and you could easily make 400+kw on ethanol with a single low mounted hidden turbo off a VQ25det manifold.
  14. I might have a spare ballast here if you need one, but I wouldn't go poking around in the HV plug, it could get nasty. I am heading up to Sydney this week too.
  15. It all looks like it could have been modified to work fairly easily... You must be pissed the new Haltech Elite can run variable cams and twin DBW yeh?
  16. Turbo is easier to hide though.
  17. And what happens when the 1500cc injectors can't be scaled correctly? I think you should be looking at your ecu selection before shelling out for new injectors again. The 1500's have just been released, they are based on the stainless 1300's that ID contracted Bosch to make. If you plan to keep running the Wolf, perhaps asking Aznew to swap the 1400's for ev14 1000's is a better option? They will run a little better down low I imagine.
  18. How laggy is it currently? Seals don't 'go' in BB turbo's, they are like piston rings. More likely there is too much oil flow, or the bearings have collapsed. If you can wobble the shaft, cut your losses and put a Hypergear in there. Garrett cores have no place in the stock turbo housings...
  19. I have had similar issues with COD it can take Aust post ages. One of my deliveries took a week, sent from the other side of Melbourne. lol. Not Hypergear's fault. Pay for a courier if you want express delivery.
  20. I don't think anyone is flaming here, I am just defending a great product recently released onto the market. As they are flow tested at the supplier the chances they are faulty out of the box are extremely slim. (unless they were damaged in transit) It is much more likely they don't like the FJ setup they are installed in, hence why I am trying to offer suggestions as to why they may be having issues. Large injectors are hard to get right at the best of times. In such an old loom I would be replacing as much wiring as you can, especially on the injector and coil harnesses. Unless you have already rewired? 14V straight to the injector, even temporarily, may help. You are saying they may not be flow matched, but that has very little to do with idle problems. The chances these 1400's have different dead times is doubtful too, but this is what mainly affects the idle, it can be caused by excess pressure and low voltage issues. Hopefully your tuner can sort it out for you anyway.
  21. This^ I assume most just laughed at you, as they don't want to see their newly built engine throw a rod or split the bore. Keep the compression under 10:1 imo or cylinder pressures will skyrocket. Anything Tomei is generally top shelf. No issues with the Manley pistons in my evo either. It's all down to the machinist.
  22. Most flex joints restrict down half an inch or so with the woven mesh inside, it could cause issues. The ones I use have truck flex inside and are the same size as the pipe internally. Keep the flex joint though, it helps take load off the turbo and manifold. Best is to drop the exhaust on the dyno and see if there are gains, at least you know which end the issue is then without chasing your tail.
  23. Agreed. But it's not big enuf...
  24. lol. superiority complex much? Facebook is that way. >>
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