Kinkstaah

...... I have a 4.11 in mine, and a .63 6th instead of a .50. Even with these (relatively insanely) short gears, my 1000kmh idle is like 1800rpm. With the .50 it was 1600ish? With the rear ratios you are talking about, I don't know honestly why you don't get a 4cyl econobox and play V8 rumble through the speakers.

Really not that bad. See my other comments at "Daily driver/spirited nasho tyres". The RS4 is just priced better than anything else. The days where the RS4 was twice the price of a Federal/Nankang are sadly quite over, making the Hankook just the bang for buck champion. Yokos tend to grip better as they age, and will grip down to the cords, but this is an impression with no hard data that I have ever really seen. The tread life in kms is the same for me (AD08R vs RS3/RS4) making the AD08R just twice as expensive for literally no benefit.

Coupe and sedan are identical. They are identical cars mechanically (R34 coupe and R34 sedan) with the only exception being the exhaust. R33 GTST brakes and suspension will fit on a R34 NA. I do not know whether there's realistically any damping differences in some companies setup but I HEAVILY doubt there would be, if looking at something like a R33 GTST BC coilover and a R34 NA BC coilover, or a R34 GTT BC coilover for example.

In my case it's cost. I don't have the funds/space to buy two sets of rims and have them sitting around like the pair of drag tyres/rims I already have sitting around. The idea is you have one set of tyres for road AND track duties. No it's not as good as either. As as result, you can scoff and disregard people who R comps as "ah yeah track only tyres" and feel smug about your street car. In the future I will most likely do what you say honestly. 80TW or R comp (cup 2 etc something) for track tyres, and a 300 treadwear good-ish road tyre. Like a Bridgestone RE003 or NS2 or something like that. Truth of the matter is even RS4/AD08R's only really start gripping up at tyre temps at 80C+ Can't really see/admit to ever pushing hard enough on the street where I need to drop pressures and get tyre temp up that much - So they aren't even operating as designed on the street anyway, and I always wondered if a softer tyre that grips better at 50C actually provides more total grip than a UHP/200TW tyre at 50C does when it's out of its temperature windows, AND then its pressure window if you DO get it up to 80C.

So, I did a track day. Here's the photos of all the other cool stuff that was there that day. https://www.facebook.com/media/set?vanity=rcpicsmelb&set=a.187556910319041 I totally did some track day tuning with the laptop, which was actually quite beneficial as you can't get better datalogging than actually going down Sandown main straight instead of a dyno 😛 Only thing that 'broke' was the PS fluid got a bit hot due to heavy sustained RPM which is a pretty known issue in pretty much any car ever, I may look into an Astra electric/hydraulic power steering conversion for this purpose, as a PS fluid soaked sock is not really ideal in my engine bay, though it wasn't really even too soaked. Perhaps cool down laps are in order for PS given everything else was fine. 75+ hot laps. Car sounds the same coming out the way it did, but that horrible lifter clacking noise is still present, so I may take it to wiser minds to have the heads pulled off to get it investigated once and for all. I stupidly deleted my Trackaddict data and I was very slow around the track because my body is not used to G forces, so I only have unedited, un-timed gopro video available. But it has V8 noises and the misfires are from traction control kicking in. Some of the "There's just no grip" was rain and cold/greasy conditions, and part was me being scared. Anywho, here is aforementioned v8 noises, now with all natural pops and bangs baby. (i.e not tuned for them)

Is the car not loud enough already or

No road tyre is worth it. No 17in drag radial will compete with a 15 one with more sidewall. Just wear different rims front rear at the drags. There's the reason everyone does it. Driving on the road with drag radials is shit anyway, unless you are doing massive launches at every stop, they are really only good for launches, and detrimental everywhere else. Going on a cruise with corners in it I would really advise against running a DR on the rear and a regular tyre at the front.

Also if you're gonna do that, buying new rims, go 15's or something for more sidewall.

2 step is.. just a limiter while the car is not moving 😛

Believe it or not, this actually did sell to a guy from work (of all places) about a week ago after being up for most of the year. Get the full kit I say, the rear is also very useful/effective!

Just make sure if you get a harness you get a HANS. Then there's all sorts of extra things to consider like a helmet net and proper collared seat and etcccccccccccc. Just adding 1 can be less safe than adding 0, but I am sure you know that already.

So does trackaddict, though I would suspect RaceChrono paid (which I also have) does well, but trackaddict also overlays OBD2 data from the car if you want that too. Maybe Racechrono does. Point being, get it setup right and all you have to do is hit 'record' and your video and telemetry gets synced and life is good. Will see how well this all works for me on sept 2

They were never shit, and this is cool as hell.

My bottom end was rebuilt... so I think it's standard? Or refreshed.. standard? I didn't do it - I bought it with a lot of receipts but it has new bearings, new pump and was re-assembled. Apparently I have the standard flow, standard pressure pump. I did notice the oil pressure for a LS at idle is quite low, but not critically bad, I am happy that it's at about 28psi now (that my gauges work/don't leak). I would have probably specced the high pressure one, but I'll admit my ignorance after making my other post, I don't see how the pressure spring changes things. Given the pressure is a resistance to flow... high flow should also = high pressure, and your oil pump specifications should be dictated by how the engine is built (hence the sincere thankyou video man)

These are really great concise videos tbh! (I also have a melling pump)

Especially with... oil pressure.....

Do not get the high volume pump - You will be just pumping oil harder into the heads and through your PCV system, and emptying your sump faster. What you want is the high PRESSURE pump. So yeah that's why not I mean is it a real issue given how you use the car, no Did you need to change the oil pump at all given that information also no

Nah, he will buy the M3 then join the ranks of "Oh, man, I miss the R33, I didn't know what I had until I sold it, but now it's too expensive/not possible to do it again" Save this post for 2026 lols.

The RWC requirements are pretty clear actually in regards to what is checked during a RWC test in victoria. One of the more stringent ones (it does note this out specifically now) is that the car's emissions system needs to be as factory from the air filter intake to the dump pipe. If the car is currently registered it is fine to assume it is still able to be registered unless it is a WOVR vehicle, which means you need the reciepts for the damage that got the car off the WOVR register and back onto the road. Provided it's not been written off. Other than the turbo/filter/intercooler situation most of the other considerations for RWC are safety related as well as modifications that fit under VSI8. This means wheels that are 1" wider than OEM, not sticking out past the guards, passing a noise check, brakes that work, no obvious oil leaks everywhere, seatbelts that work, wipers that work. Anything that does not meet this needs to be presented with a VASS certificate. Those are generally reserved for registering a vehicle. As my car has been engineered, I'm actually not sure what the new buyer would need to provide, but I am going off on a tangent here. As to what is stock and what looks stock, well the RWC tester is required to take photos. So it needs to look stock. . This goes for every car sold or RWC'ed for defects etc.

Still available. $250 obo!

Drag radials will change it, I mean if the 60ft becomes 1.8 you'll be down into the very low 11's to boot. Then again after you have the slip in your hand you now have extra rims and tyres to stare at going "Ah yeah... cool, now what" So may as well just do the math and be satisfied 😛

I registered in the cruise, but as I wake up slowly the day before.... I think I'll just head up there later in the day because sleep is fun.

The earlier LS1's do that, the newer ones (like mine) have the PCV valve in the valley cover, so the only hose they have stock is the under-valley one to the intake manifold. My one came with a nightmare combination of both vents and a newer PCV. You need to have the one from the throttle body on. I plugged it and exploded my dipstick at the track N/A because I was thinking boost land with a one way valve. Well it turns out crankcase pressure when it builds vents in the other direction into the intake manifold, so it's both fresh air and a vent. So don't mess with that one lol.

That reminds me, why did I use all of the ports on the valve covers when I could neaten it and just use the PCV like you have done. Cause.. flow? Ugh. Looks nice man. Much nicer than mine!

Not to mention comparisons to other cars (like falcons, commodores) which also are great at doing what they were designed to do... but this is off topic now. If you want a reliable R34 GTR with 600HP, the answer is buy a 911 GT3, because that is what it takes lol.