GTSBoy

Well, yeah, loom diagnosis is a process of pulling all the plugs and testing all the wires that are associated with the loom you're interested in, along with other plugs that hang from the same loom. You're looking for unexpected shorts between unrelated wires, unexpected earths, unexpected 12V (when there shouldn't be, because you've disconnected the expected power supply, etc etc.

So, the final diagnostic is to try your control unit in another car. Presuming it works in another car, then you're looking at loom/plug problems in your car.

I would Nistune the ECU, override the TCS motor/position code and forget the car ever had it. (in fact, that's exactly what I did, because Neo into R32). What's code 44 again?

You don't. Injectors come out, go in a bag, into another car, driven to the fuel injection service location of your choice.

Yes, so, injectors out, onto the cleaning and flow testing rig. Ultrasonic cleaning while pulsing with solvent supplied through them. If they do not recover - then and only then to buy replacements.

They still bring cars in.

And just because it is not coilpacks or spark plugs, does not automatically mean that the injector is faulty. Could be the loom/plug on either of the injector or coilpack. or it could be a broken ringland, valve seat damage, or any of a number of other similarly nasty mechanical problems that can cause misfires.

What, like most cars, including our Skylines? We jack up on the diff, but we probably shouldn't. The front crossmember is really not designed for jacking. It has no crush resistance, slippery rounder profile. Everything that should scream "do not jack here".

Both of those are porn. I worry about the multi-piece construction of the Rennstand. I see a few ways for that to go wrong on people. And I ponder if you can only make the other one work with certain trolley jacks. But they are both the realisation of idle ponderings I have done myself when staring at the shitful combination of things I have to hold my car up over the years.

I've said it before and I'll say it again. Following on from the points made by Duncan and Dosebro, I contend that unless you take the opportunity to triangulate the brace back to the firewall, you gain little to nothing in a Skyline.

So unlikely to be true that it barely deserves discussion. These cars have all had odo haircuts. What really matters is the actual condition. And so on to your inspection. I'm not from Sydney so don't have a recommendation for you. Hopefully someone will pipe up with a useful recco for you. But also keep in mind that there is a large number of famous Skyline/GTR performance shops in Sydney. Mostly in the western crime zone. Consider them a fallback position. They do know a lot about Skylines.

Hmmmmm.....take risks with the oil pump you should not. /Yoda

No. I will recount my old story where the power wire for my O2 sensor shorted inside the loom and burnt the wiring for the PS solenoid - giving me 100% dead heavy steering. Loom faults are defo a thing!

They didn't, really. There's cars based on the R chassis (ie, Skylines Stags) and there's cars based on the S chassis (Silvias and Ceffies). And there's 4 cylinder engines that were mostly in the S chassis cars but sometimes turned up in the nasty budget versions of the R chassis based cars. And there's the RB engines that were pretty much exclusively in the R chassis cars. There are engine mounts for each type of 4 cylinder engine in the S chassis cars (CAs and SRs). There are engine mounts for the 4cly engines in the R chassis based cars (probably the same as for the S cars). And the RB engines have a couple of different types of mounts - essentially the RB26 and all the others. You can pull an RB25 out of an R34 and drop it and its mounts into an R32.

Yeah, but if it's enough current to pop the 60A fuse, it really shouldn't blow one of the smaller fuses downstream. I would presume that there's a significant short in the wiring between the 60A fuse and any other fuses downstream. Melted insulation is the obvious thing to look for. But yes, pulling any and all downstream fuses, then probing in the 60A fuse socket looking for earth would be the best way to start. Hot tip - there shouldn't be a nice path to earth there!

So, the usual suspects. The tune on the PFC, the O2 sensor. The consumption is not outrageous. It is easy to use that much just driving without concern for how fast and far you move your foot.

Not personally. Only going on several other 1st hand results posted on here (and in the UK, I think?). IIRC, my bro-in-law, who is an import workshop owner, has several dorifto customers with them on RBs and they all overheat on the road (although most of them have no shroud, which definitely contributes). It's been some years since I formed these opinions and draw these recollections. It's really only the outcome that remains, not the source material, if you know what I mean. That fan is intended to be for dorifto flatbrims. I think that fan actually moves less air than the factory SR fan. It's about unloading the engine and reducing the noise/power draw (for the flatbrims). It's actually no surprise that the stock RB fan can move more air. The blades on the GKTech fan are rather small.

Why not use the jacking point? Designed to carry the load. All the other mentioned points are not. The subframe is not intended to carry concentrated load from the top of a jack/stand. The diff bushes are not meant to carry that load either (not that stops me from jacking under the diff if I need to - I just don't like it because I'm an engineer who can picture what it is doing to the bushes in mind as I do it). The subframe mounting points being index fingered above are also not really meant to carry point loads from a jack or stand, and you would have to obtain or make an adapter to fit there to avoid causing damage - same as you need for the jacking points to avoid rolling the seam. There is really no safe place on the subframe to put a chassis stand. The best spots available are the lower inner suspension arm pivots, as they are strong and intended to carry the vertical load, and a jack stand will go there without too much risk of wanting to fall off. Well, narrow headed domestic jack stands will anyway. Big heavy workshop stands not so much. And the lower arm pivots are not always convenient either. The jacking points are ideal for supporting the car on stands because they are mostly completely out of the way of just about anything you want to do under the car with very little risk of the car falling off - provided you have the right adapter on the top of the stand.

No. No. No. No. Point 1. The GKTech fan works well on SRs. It is no good on RBs. Get a factory fan. Point 2. You need an adapter to fit the GKTech fan to the RB clutch. That's because of point 1. It is for SRs, not RBs. But it doesn;t worj anyway, so see point 1. Yeah, good luck with that. My experience is that the Dayco clutches are no damn good either. Too noisy. Get OEM. So, all in all, a complete fail. Abandon all that you have and have done, and spend the $500 odd it costs to get proper Nissan stuff.

Why is there a lot of carry on about the pinch welds? You do not jack on the pinch welds. You jack on the jacking points, that just happen to be located at the pinch welds. The jack doesn't touch the pinch weld. The jack touches the jacking point either side of the pinch weld. If you're lifting at the jacking points with anything other than the original jack, you simply have to make sure that you pick up on the jacking points, not on the pinch weld. I always struggle with understanding people's apparent lack of understanding on this point.

Just look on the wiring diagram, find the right wiring at the HICAS CU and bridge it there?

Drill. In Australia, even an attached single car carport will be at least 100mm of 25MPa concrete. A shed/garage should be something better. But even a good shed slab is not good enough to put a hoist on. You need piers/beams to carry the load. But those long/low quickjack style things are probably OK on a simple slab because they're not point loaded. They spread the load out along a decent length. Defo best to check the doco to see what they recommend/require though.

It's called driveline lash and it could be caused by absolutely any mechanical connection in the driveline. Diff gears. tailshaft centre bearing, CV joints, driveshaft splines.

I think you're missing the point. There are no "injectors". There are just nozzles. With injectors, the flow rate depends on the pulse width. The pressure remains high at all times. Atomisation quality depends primarily on the pressure. Low pressure = poor atomisation. High P gives better atomisation. With a nozzle, flow rate depends only on pressure. And, as Ben says, with an incompresssible fluid (ie, pretty much any liquid, including water and meth), the flow rate rises as a function of the square root of pressure. Ie, if you double the pressure, you get 1.4 times as much flow. Or the other way around, if you want double the flow, you need 4x the pressure. If you want half the flow, you only need 1/4 the pressure. (And that's where things start to look grim). Consider what this means for the range of operating pressures you need to cover the flow rate range you want. So, if you were wanting, say, a 10:1 turndown ratio on flow, then you'd need a 100:1 turndown ratio on pressure. What does that look like? Well, your typical pump that you might have available for pumping water in a car (like a fuel pump, or something like one that can live with water in it) can really only manage to produce a few bar of pressure. Maybe 10 if you are very lucky. So, assuming you size that pump and the nozzle to deliver all the water you need at 10 bar, then by the time you are turned down to about 1/3rd of that flow rate you are only getting about 1 bar of pressure on the nozzle. And, atomisation will really suffer below ~1bar. (And, you also need to add your boost pressure on top of that, so you probably lose a bar from the whole operating range anyway, meaning that the pump is actually going to need to deliver at about 2 bar to give 1 bar nozzle pressure into the boosted air.) So what that means is that you will struggle to get better than about 3:1 turndown ratio, and I'd suggest that most systems' pumps wouldn't deliver even 10 bar, so you might find that you've got more like 2:1 turndown. Whereas, you fuel injection flow rate turndown is >>100:1 (from idle through to full power) and the turndown just across the rev/power range where you want to inject water is probably at least 5:1. If you want your water to scale with "demand" (where demand is broadly equivalent to engine load, ie fuel injection quantity), then you're not going to be able to get anywhere near it with just a pump and nozzle. You end up having to over-deliver at the low end in order to maintain atomisation quality. And.....the general experience is that that's not really a problem. The only other thing you can do to sidestep this is to have multiple nozzles and stage them in. You can multiply whatever turndown range you fundamentally obtain from a single nozzle by 2, simply by having 2 such nozzles. 3 for 3 nozzles, etc. But staging them is a bit rough. It's very difficult to smoothly transition from "maxed out flow on a single nozzle" to "just above that amount, on 2 nozzles), because you have to both activate the 2nd nozzle's solenoid, and reduce the delivery pressure, simultaneously. It's not impossible, but it's far far more control system complication than anyone is really willing to put in. If you wanted to get that sophisticated, then you'd go down the pulsed injector/ECU path discussed previously.

There's probably a dance you have to do to trigger diag mode in that CU (do they still call it ATESSA in these jiggers?). You'd have to consult the manual or whatever wisdom exists amongst the Stag tragics on the net. Have a search in the appropriate forum here. Failing that, just about any decent workshop with a SnapOn et al scan tool will be able to read it.