GTSBoy

This ^. There are datum points on both the engine and the cover (ie, the mounting bolt holes) from which you can measure to find the centreline of the camshaft (on the engine) and just transfer that to the cover. It's a little harder because it's in 3 dimensions, but essentially the same as using a compass to draw two arcs from two centres to find the only common intersection point.

No. That is the exact opposite of what I told you in my first reply. The ECU knows almost nothing about what is on the dash. The only stuff that comes from the ECU to the dash is the tacho, and the engine warning light.

Um. back up a second. The illumination + and - terminals on the dash itself should have continuity between them. They are either side of the lamps. The illumination works by a switch, somewhere else (well, actually, it's obvious where it is, it's the headlight switch), provides either power or earth, depending on which way it is switched. I'm not going to go find an R33 wiring diagram to check. You can do that. VSS is the vehicle speed sensor. You can't really check that. It's one wire up from the speed sensor and then the VSS signal out to the ECU and other CUs that use it. The speed sensor on the gearbox produces a +/-1V AC (sawtooth) waveform that varies frequency (and magnitude) with vehicle speed, and the speedo in the dash converts that to a 0-5V square wave (PWM) signal (the VSS) that varies pulsewidth with speed. The illumination should not interfere with the gauges. But, my experience on these forums is that these faults are always caused by something completely stupid and unexpected.

Wriggle the wiring looms to injectors and coils, while it is running, particularly near the various plugs.

The dash doesn't get ANYTHING from the ECU except the tacho signal and the check engine lamp. Everything else, being fuel, oil pressure, boost, water temperature, speed, etc, all come direct from the various sensors/devices scattered around the car. So the ECU change is not at fault. You have some serious problem with all the wiring. Follow Duncan's advice.

I built a franken-helical for my R32 after experimenting with lots of other options. For a street car, they are nearly the perfect diff. I also corroborate Duncan's input, which is that the factory 2-way clutch type diff is an excellent diff that does not need to be upgraded and actually does not have the bearing "weakness" that your diff builder claims. The bearings will actually be the exact same part regardless of what centre is in the diff anyway, so I'm none too sure what sort of cane toad he has been licking to come up with that story.

As a long time (non-GTR) proponent of helical diffs, my vote is Quaife at both ends.

If you're in the northern 'burbs, go see Alan at All Type Crash for the body repairs. Good bloke - somewhat specialises in imports and particularly Skylines. Although, like me, I think he'd prefer to have R32s sitting the front yard than R33s. You can buy the window and door rubbers on line and do those yourself. I got Alan to fit and paint the new hinges to my doors, because I'm good with rubbers and other hardware, but hanging doors is not easy! He's also done a major repair and many small touch ups to my car over the years. And, for mechanical help, perhaps go see Brenton at Fours'n'more. Well......for more serious mechanical help than the power steering fluid leak. That's probably just a hose, and you could probably do that yourself.

Demount fan. Install shroud. Remount fan.

Being essentially the same as 64000 miles does not change my opinion of the mileage on that car. They were all wound back in Japan, then usually wound back again before sale in their destination country. Better off abandoning that old fashioned crap. Buy an R35 (or similar) pencil coil conversion kit. Rewire with a loom kit to get rid of the igniter. Nistune the ECU so you can tweak the dwell and boost off into the sunset.

Absolutely. There's also almost zero chance that that car has only done 64000 miles. 164000 more likely, 264000 quite probable. That is unless you have owned it since circa the year 2000. 30 years of heat soaking will definitely leave that ignitor not working the way it should. Hell.....they started dying 20 years ago on everyone else's cars.

Aren't modern Nissans like this a reason to buy these instead? https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/ford/mustang/under-50000/

They're rare (in Oz) because who would want to import a slow-arse bland ugly R33 with 4 stud wheels, no brakes, basic seats, etc etc etc? The only ones that really turned up were accidents, where people thought they were buying an NA RB25, because they didn't know that such rotten pleb spec stuff even existed. With foresight, it might have been bright to bring in a few thousand of them to stockpile for donor bodies, 20 years later.

I have seen precisely 2 of them in 25 years. And both of those were.....20 years ago.

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What does the diameter matter if they don't line up with the crank?

And for that to be true (which it is) you cannot hope to sell it in Australia for use in Australia. If it's not being cut up it will be going in a shipping container to the Middle East, or the USA, or somewhere in the EU, where there is money to pay for it.

So.... Swap the original globes back in. Did it fix it? If no, then; Work out what wire you broke while manhandling the cluster. Break out the multimeter and wiring diagram and go looking.

?

What's wrong with your existing pulleys?

While it's off the road for the whoosh install, simply add DCT conversion.

I'm pretty sure 25s and 26s have different offsets for all the pulleys.

The lizard man's evil data theft and social control empire.

Anybody who voluntarily look sat bookface is already living in a dumpster anyway. f**k that place and all who sail in her.