GTSBoy

If that's where your speed signal is coming from, then yes, it could be. But, given that I can't see how the speed signal would be coming from the wheel sensors, it would seem unlikely.

Yeah, it's not supposed to spin. Spinning would be the bad thing happening, not the occasional stopping of spinning. Care to post a video so we can all do the WTF!? together?

Aren't these small enough that they could reasonably fit on the front side of the passenger's suspension tower? Where the PS reservoir and airbox live. A little judicious relocation of the loom plug that resides there should see enough space made. Or how about on the firewall above the ABS unit?

That's how the aftermarket solid ones are held on.

The key difference here is that the smaller engine will require a higher pressure ratio (more boost) to flow the same amount of air through the engine - hence Lithium's point about there possibly being a need for a different size turbo if that higher boost would put you up against the surge line or way off the efficiency island cf the larger engine.

Was probably just Sikaflexed on there.

Seems fine. You never have 2 grooves facing each other.

Good work.

Get the wiring diagram. Find the source of the power, go there and probe. Then move forward in the diagram until you don't find power any more.

If the block mating surface will work with an o-ring, then use the o-ring that suits the pickup. If you were going to fill the groove to use the gasket, then the best bet would be some epoxy putty. Not bloody silicone! Remember to use a suitable o-ring material for hot oily conditions. Not just some random hardware shop o-ring.

They're starting to succumb to random unfixable electrical gremlins.

8K is a walk in the park for a stock RB20. I simply raised the rev limit on mine (Nistune) to 8300 and ran it hard for years. Stock turbo though. 9k is not hard. Just need springs, and maybe consider the lifters as a potential weak point. Making strong power up there is, of course, a matter of cams and porting and so on, as I said before. Doing all of this, on a forged motor, and not planning to run 22+psi is a waste of time. You need boost and you need lots of it to make power on an RB20. With E85 you should probably be considering 30+ psi. An RB20 is not a good motor for the street. By the time you have them up into the 250rwkW region, you have lag, lag, lag, lag, nothing, then more nothing, then.......wheelspin. As a track engine, kept right up on the boil, more acceptable. For street use, I would seriously not be looking too exceed 200rwkW on a 20, to try to keep it more useful. But even that still matches the description in the paragraph above. I went RB25 and the thing actually accelerates before boost arrives, simply from that tiny bit of extra capacity. A 3L would be even better. If I was stuck with an RB20, I would twin charge it. Screw compressor blowing through a turbo. Make it act like a 3L, then rev like a 2L. I think I might have said this before.

I bet they wear gloves too.

Sounds like clutch.

Front might be the same, but there's no way the rears are. Rear screen is a different thing on the sedan, fo' sho'.

Yes, that is definitely the "worse" thing I was talking about.

This is very interesting to me. In that....."how can I make my car both better and worse at the same time?" kinda way.

So....the genuine GT3071 is good for something like 500 engine HP, maybe a smidge less, and on a small engine like an RB20, almost certainly less rather than more. At 9000 rpm your engine needs to be making 400Nm (!) of torque in order to make that much power. If you want peak power at 9500, then you only need to make 375Nm. So, realistically, despite what the other guys are saying (for reasons I will get into below**) there is actually no "what rpm would you say a turbo this size would Max out at?".....so long as the engine configuration is flexible. By "engine configuration" I mean the cams, porting, compression and so on that determine where it wants to make peak torque and how high it will be able to rev. ** If you're talking about a mostly stock engine, like the other guys are mostly basing their statements on, then yes, you need to match a turbo's capacity to what the engine can use at the stock rev range, or only slightly more. It's all the same calculation - how much boost and mass flow rate of air from the compressor map against what torque the engine will need to make at your anticipated peak power revs, and whether it is then possible to make that torque from that much boost. If the engine can't make that much torque, then the turbo is not a good match. If the engine can make that much torque at that boost, but the turbo can't flow enough (or is actually too large and perhaps running inefficiantly) then the turbo is also not a good match. Doing this from first principles is quite difficult, which is why most people just work from anecdotal evidence, ie "this engine did X with turbo Y", and then extrapolate from there.

Too small for the rev range you're talking about. Do the maths on the torque that you'd expect/want the engine to be making, multiplied by the revs (north of 9k) and that's your power number. That gives you your turbo flow requirements. There's no point in revving it high if it's not making torque up there. If you're not making >350Nm.....

RB20 can be made to rev to 10K without too much trouble, although the hydraulic lifters can be hard to convince to play along. They are 30 years old. The best solution is to twin charge. That way you get the engine to act like it is a 3L at lower rpm and rev like the short stroke 2L that it is up high, with a big open turbine housing to unload the exhaust pressure. A 10K RB20 is otherwise a 6-10K engine. There is no lag down low, because there is no going down there. You stay above 6 or you suck.

I'm not shitting on the approach of retrofitting something from a newer car - I've done plenty of it myself. But I do have to wonder why no-one ever goes to the effort of getting their failed booster reconditioned? It's easy. Just go to your local expert brake company (ie, ABS in Adelaide) and hand it over with $200 or so.

Hi Matt! I still don't know exactly what Brenton ended up doing to make mine work! Never saw the final wiring diagram, then got distracted.

Add dye.

Probably someone's alarm armed blinker.

I would ask the question....is it possible to fix the roof with some steel to replace the bloody stupid glass that someone** jammed in there mistakenly thinking it was a good thing? **Yes. I'm including Nissan.